X-Pro 2 Firmware Request List

[Ektachrome]

Thought it might be cool for people to add FW requests for the XP2 to a thread? Apologies if there is already a thread but I couldn't find it!

 

OK me first - I love my XP2 to bits, and only have a couple of niggles, but they're quite important to me -

 

1. Can we have a focus patch in the EVF, like the OVF, please? Sometimes I want to focus critically and manually, but still see the full composition (i.e. not zoom in). The XT1 has the dual screen view for this, and I use it a lot. Honestly I didn't know the XP2 wouldn't have this in the EVF too. Doesn't have to be a separate split like the XT1 but maybe just the same patch we get in the bottom RH corner of the OVF, please?

2. Can we have framelines which move (like the focus area) to reflect the parallax correction in the OVF, please? I would use it a lot more if this were available.

 

Apart from those I really love it (yes, even the ISO dial).

[Ektachrome]

Forgot one - on lenses with a pull back to MF ring, can doing so override the AF mode switch so it's a one pull to MF mode on the lens, please?

[deva]

I would like the firmware to correct the bluish cast to the EVF so it matches the LCD

[karlfranz]

Always wanted to select shutter times up to 20 minutes directly from within the camera without having to use an external timer/shutter release.

[tdGunter]

2. Can we have framelines which move (like the focus area) to reflect the parallax correction in the OVF, please? I would use it a lot more if this were available.

 

I'm pretty sure it's the frame lines that move to correct for the parallax error, while the focus point doesn't. That is the whole point of missing focus when shooting nearby objects.

 

My no.1 request would be that when shooting RAW + JPEG (card 1 + card 2) it would be possible to link those files in-camera. If you delete one (RAW) image, the JPEG would automatically be deleted with it. 

[Ektachrome]

I'm pretty sure it's the frame lines that move to correct for the parallax error, while the focus point doesn't. That is the whole point of missing focus when shooting nearby objects.

On mine, it's the opposite - the AF frame moves to compensate so you don't miss focus, but you can't frame accurately as the framelines stay fixed.

 

If you know a setting to make the framelines move, please let me know!

[solidsilver]

I sort of use RAW as my back up, but use JPEG as my go to file, to browse and to share. JPEG are on slot 2, but the rear viewer always defaults to slot 1. I like to select by default which card is the default for the rear display.

 

Geolocations - it needs an option to forget a location rather than menu digging or letting it time out. Basically a reset location option in the quick menu.

 

Delete JPEG and RAW File associated with it option.

 

In camera raw editing needs a micro adjustment/degree rotate on the rotate option. Just to straighten photos.

 

They also need to do some work on Camera remote, after any action you have to reconnect.

[graffias]

How to make framelines move with OVF?  

 

Go to the second 'page' of AfMF in the main menu.  Look at the last option called Corrected AF Frame, and make sure it's on.  Mine is and both the focus point and frame lines shift to reflect parallax changes.

[tdGunter]

How to make framelines move with OVF?  

 

Go to the second 'page' of AfMF in the main menu.  Look at the last option called Corrected AF Frame, and make sure it's on.  Mine is and both the focus point and frame lines shift to reflect parallax changes.

 

That's the setting to let the AF point move along with the frame lines. But the frame lines always move for parallax error, regardless of 'CORRECTED AF FRAME' is ON or OFF.

By the way, when CORRECTED AF FRAME is ON, next to the regular AF point there is an additional point visible in the OVF, in the right lower part. The point is square shaped and has crop marks instead of a full line. It moves with the focus point when the joy stick is used, but it doesn't move when the parallax error is displayed. I can't figure out what this is. Do you know?

[tdGunter]

 

By the way, when CORRECTED AF FRAME is ON, next to the regular AF point there is an additional point visible in the OVF, in the right lower part. The point is square shaped and has crop marks instead of a full line. It moves with the focus point when the joy stick is used, but it doesn't move when the parallax error is displayed. I can't figure out what this is. Do you know?

 

Got it. The second box represents the focus frame at the OVF’s minimum focus distance – the closest the OVF can focus before it hits the macro range.

Smart

 

This is a must read indeed, when you still have questions about the OVF, parallax and focusing! ...

http://vopoku.com/fujifilm-ovf-focusing/

Edited May 10, 2016 by tdGunter

[RadBadTad]

1) the ability to remove AF-ON from the shutter button, and use AF-L button to activate it like back button focus on other brands.  (I'm aware that you can sort of work around it with M mode and AF-L button, but it doesn't seem as fast or accurate to me, and you can't use zone or wide focus mode, only single point focus)

2) Camera orientation specific focus points. i.e. when the camera is in landscape orientation, focus point/zone near the top of the frame. When rotating the camera to portrait orientation, camera recognizes the shift, and moves the focus point to the top of the frame there as well (rather than having it be on the side, from where it was on landscape mode). That feature was super helpful on my 7D for shooting portraits and concerts where I always want someone's head at the top of a frame, and switching between landscape and portrait orientation means shifting the focus point back and forth between the same two spots over and over again.

[LievenL]

How about the possibility to format both sd-cards at the same time?

[alazar1]

How about ISO adjustment being assignable to the dials?? C'mon Fuji!

[dequity11]

Hey Fuji,

 

Please, please give us

 

1)  button assigned iso

 

2) Back button AF-On as per other manufacturers - it works and yours does not regardless of how it is set up!

 

Come on Fuji, you can do it!

 

Dequity11

[dr.oh]

Used my new xpro2 for one week. In general I am pretty happy. However, there are two things I would like to have changed.

1st: Please add ISO adjustment to e.g. the front wheel or allow ISO selection set to any Fn button.

2nd: I am missing that I can turn on the LCD whenever I want! Let me explain. When I am shooting a session I don't need the LCD to be turned on all the time. Therefore, I am happy that I can set the camera to switch on the EVF/OVF with the sensor. Perfect. If I want to check a picture I can press the display button. Also perfect. But from time to time, especially before I take the first picture, or when the situation has changed, I would like to check my camera settings. This I want to do on the LCD, not within the OVF/EVF.  But to do so, I have to press the view mode button several times especially when I want to go back to "sensor OVF/EVF + no LCD". It would be absolutely perfect if one would be able to access the quick menu after pressing the display button.This means I set the camera view mode to "sensor EVF + NO LCD". I make pictures and no LCD turns on. If I want to check a picture I press the display button. And if I want to check my settings or change my settings, I press the display button and then the Q button. Then I could get around pressing several times the view button, which drives my crazy. By doing so, one could also expand the battery life! which is horrible short  I believe that the back LCD display uses a lot of battery energy.

dirk

[hiZis]

My biggest request: assign 100% zoom for focus check function to focus lever push. Now it's on back dial push, which is pain to use.

Fix the parallax correction for 23mm f/1.4 on close distances. Now it's not even close to being accurate. Later I'll try to take a picture through OVF by phone to show this issue.

Make viewfinder overlay similar between OVF and EVF. Now histogram is in different corners between the two.

Speaking of histogram, why it's still disappearing after exposure metering?! Why, Fuji?

Make an option for automatic OVF focal range change upon changing lenses. Now, after switching from 35mm to 23mm lens you have to spend additional 2 seconds holding lever before you can even start composing.

Also mine is always underexposing. I keep comp dial at +2/3 all the time, which is not ideal.

[neon]

I would like the firmware to correct the bluish cast to the EVF so it matches the LCD

Yes, please! The bluish cast is really terrible.

[MikeRossiPhoto]

My biggest request: assign 100% zoom for focus check function to focus lever push. Now it's on back dial push, which is pain to use.

Fix the parallax correction for 23mm f/1.4 on close distances. Now it's not even close to being accurate. Later I'll try to take a picture through OVF by phone to show this issue.

Make viewfinder overlay similar between OVF and EVF. Now histogram is in different corners between the two.

Speaking of histogram, why it's still disappearing after exposure metering?! Why, Fuji?

Make an option for automatic OVF focal range change upon changing lenses. Now, after switching from 35mm to 23mm lens you have to spend additional 2 seconds holding lever before you can even start composing.

Also mine is always underexposing. I keep comp dial at +2/3 all the time, which is not ideal.

Yes, I would also like the 100% zoom to be pushing the focus lever push...the rear command dial is too far into the camera to be effective when you're in a hurry.

[MikeRossiPhoto]

I would like to be able to put in "User Setting" options into "My Menu". I'm a wedding photographer so making sure my time and date are the same across multiple cameras and formatting cards are the 2 biggest things I change from wedding to wedding and the fact that I still have to go into the User Setting tab to change that just takes more time than if it was in "My Menu" like I could do on my Canons.

 

Also, I would like that if you are shooting RAW + JPEG that when you go into playback mode that it reads from Card 2 instead of Card 1 by default since that's where your JPEGs go, I'm constantly switching from Card 1 to Card 2 so that I can review the JPEGs and then wirelessly transfer them to my phone for uploading.

 

As another user mentioned, I'll 2nd the part of about when you're in playback mode that you can depress the focus lever to go to 100% especially when you can use the focus lever to scan around the image anyways, it's just more natural than clicking the rear command dial and then going to the focus lever to scan around, it would be really quick to have everything under the focus lever.

 

Also, I'm not sure why when you go into the Wrench icon that the viewfinder clicks closed. That's the only Menu that it does that with. Very weird and unnecessary movements to the viewfinder.

 

Battery percentage being displayed in the viewfinder would help!

 

Even with all this, I love my X-Pro2!

[Wing0949]

I'm pretty sure it's the frame lines that move to correct for the parallax error, while the focus point doesn't. That is the whole point of missing focus when shooting nearby objects.

 

My no.1 request would be that when shooting RAW + JPEG (card 1 + card 2) it would be possible to link those files in-camera. If you delete one (RAW) image, the JPEG would automatically be deleted with it. 

Yes, I'm also certain the frame lines move using the OVF.  How it works depends if MF or AF.  With MF, it moves and corrects as soon as you start turning the focus ring. With AF, it only corrects and updates after you've half-pressed shutter release to AF lock.. will hold as long as you don't lift your finger off the shutter release.. OR, if you use AF-L then it will hold, but can adjust if you have manual AF-M set to adjust manually after the AF-L lock (or after half pressing shutter release and continue to hold).

 

But, that leads me to what I'd like to see fixed with AF-M (that's autofocus with manual adjustment, in case this wasn't clear).

 

What I'd like as firmware updates are a few things regarding AF & MF:

 

1) Have another way to exit check focus magnified view when using EVF and in AF mode other than to press the rear command dial or lift finger off shutter release which essentially causes me to re-AF acquire and start the process over (which is fine if I want to start over, but I often do not). Can there be another button reassigned that's perhaps easier to reach? Some have even suggested the front viewfinder lever or the function button in the front viewfinder lever. If the front viewfinder lever itself, perhaps a quick push to the left? I know pushing lever to the left engages/disengages ERF, but that's only when using the OVF, right?  and you don't get the same focus check functionatliy as you do using the EVF.. So, when you are using the EVF, a quick left push of the viewfinder lever to disengage focus check easier... perhaps being able to assign it to the function button within the lever itself?

 

2) AF-L button be available when using lenses that have manual focus ring engaged and in MF mode.

 

3) While on topic of AF, improve Face Detect.. it mostly works, but just enough instances where it fails. The X100T is even better. Can we get Face Detect to work better on the X-Pro2?

 

4) Have AE-L button be reassigned as another function button? The way camera is set up and I shoot, I don't find the AE-L button used often for exposure lock, I just prefer to half press the shutter, if not locking exposure manually.

 

 

To describe the issue I personally have regarding focus check, please read below.

 

With EVF using AF:  I find I want to quickly AF and perform fine tune focusing manually to be certain. I Focus Check, view is magnified and I can adjust focus more clearly, that's great, right?

 

BUT, after I've done my fine manual focusing, I'm stuck in magnified view, still.  I often just leave the focus point dead center, but that may not where I want the focus to actually be to compose and frame the final image.  But, since I'm magnified, I can no longer be certain what my framing and composition is.  So, if I release my half-press of shutter release button, it will zoom out and I can recompose if necessary. However, when I go to press the shutter release to take the photo, it will AF again but it will do so obviously in the wrong spot.

 

The only way I can zoom out otherwise is one of 2 ways.

 

1) I press the rear command dial.. but, it's pretty recessed and can be a bit awkward to try to press firmly and when I try, I'll find many times my finger over the shutter release loses pressure so the half press to hold focus is released and I have to attempt it again.. Or, I end up pressing the shutter release and taking the shot prematurely.  Yes, I believe it is that hard to press the rear command dial to disengage focus check like this.  Keep in mind this is both with shutter release on half press, no AF-L.

 

2) If I use AF-L (and I have it set to On/Off toggle, not press and hold only), then I can manually check focus and can more easily press the joystick to zoom out, recompose, and then take the shot without making the camera refocus..because I used AF-L.. That's pretty much been my workaround, but, I may not necessarily always want to use AF-L.. especially if I'm working a scene that's rather active and I may need to refocus AF fast. I'd really prefer to just AF without committing to AF-L and force to toggle on and off all the time.

 

The other workaround is to switch focusing mode to MF, I don't half-press the shutter release, I AF-L to hone into my focus point quickly (but keep in mind in MF, the AF-L does not work as toggle, it will only AF for the moment you press it), manually focus check, then press the shutter release fully to take the photo.

 

Sounds like using MF is the solution, right? Yes and no.  I can use it, but it depends on the lens.  If it does not have MF focus clutch like the 35mm or 56mm, then fine. But, if you have a manual focus clutch like the 23mm or 16mm etc.. then it doesn't quite work which is actually another thing fuji should try to fix.  Let me explain.

 

I want to focus check, so I have to have the manual focus ring engaged on the lens, right?  otherwise is locked and you can't do that.  When you have the focus ring engaged, you can AF by half-pressing, but you have to exit out of magnified view via the control dial.. again, difficult to keep finger half-pressed and trying to reach and press the rear command dial.. often will lift my finger off the shutter release or inadvertently press and take the photo before I'm ready.

 

So then if I go into MF mode, the AF-L button is disabled so I cannot do a quick AF to the point of focus (like I could in AF mode) and all the focusing has to be done stritctly by manually focusing.. I can do this, but it sure would be nice to keep the option to be able to use AF-L (essentially back button focus) to lock onto subject faster than to manually rack the focus wheel and scan for your focus.

[agf]

I'd love to see automatic correction of the frame magnification when changing lenses... it's a waste of time to have to keep the lever for 2 sec.

... i hoped that would come with the last FW update... maybe the next one?

 

 

 

[agf]

... in the OVF of course...

[flysurfer]

Unlikely, since my X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 already have automatic OVF magnification level switching.

[hiZis]

Unlikely, since my X-Pro1 and X-Pro2 already have automatic OVF magnification level switching.

What do you mean? When it switches automatically?

[flysurfer]

What do you mean? When it switches automatically?

 

 

"when changing lenses" 

 

That's what you requested.