Jump to content

Face/eye detection on the XT2


miguel

Recommended Posts

I generally prefer to avoid the frustration. But here are a few items.

  1. Have only one face in the scene, and make it fairly big. Say, at least the size of the "standard" medium-sized AF point, preferably bigger. Head-and-shoulders portrait is ideal.
  2. I'd recommend keeping the face in the phase-detect AF point area on X-Trans III cameras like the X-T2, although that might be mere superstition.
  3. Turning Pre-AF on will help keep the face focused enough that the camera can find and track it.
  4. If you don't have Pre-AF turned on, tap the AF to get the face in focus first, so the camera can find it. Then let the face detection work.
  5. If you don't have Pre-AF turned on, remember that face/eye detection doesn't actually refocus on the face until you activate AF (half-press or AF-ON). If a detected face moves closer or farther before you activate AF, it might get out of focus enough that the camera loses track of it. In that case you'll need to tap the AF again to get it sharp enough that the camera can find it again.
  6. When a face is detected, the camera overrides both your focus and autoexposure settings. If you don't like the exposure, Exposure Compensation or manual exposure are your only recourses.
  7. Have some spare batteries at hand, because face detection can suck a lot of battery power, and adding Pre-AF makes it even worse.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, one more item:

8. If you're using AF-S, when you're ready to take the picture, press the shutter release smoothly all the way down, without stopping at half-press. That way, the instant the camera has achieved focus on the face or eye, it'll release the shutter. If you stop at half-press like people tend to do, the subject (or camera) could move, causing the locked-in focus distance to be off by the time you actually release the shutter. It's best not to use image stabilization (OIS or IBIS) with this technique, because the IS may still be stabilizing when the picture is snapped. If you must use IS, set the IS mode to "continuous" (which further drains the battery).

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Thanks for the replies everybody. But unfortunately that Amazon link says nothing about how to turn off the Fujifilm X-T20 WiFi signal receiver. I just want to know if there IS an option to turn it off. Otherwise I'm going to have to resell this beautiful camera and go back to a (lightweight) Nikon DSLR, such as the D3500 which I understand has very well behaved IQ results.  
    • Welcome to our forum 😊
    • After 20 years with Canon (EOS100, 300D, 5D2, 7D2) I ditched everything and moved to Fuji XH2S a year and a half ago. I had been holding out for a mirrorless 7D2 but was disappointed when the R7 was released and realised that the XH2S was actually what the R7 should have been, and Fuji seem to be the only company taking APSC seriously.  It also felt like Canon were pricing themselves out of the enthusiast market (£120 for a battery, come on!). Blocking third party lenses was the final straw for me as most of my lenses had been Sigma. Anyway, I haven't looked back since. Is the XH2S perfect? No, but everything is a compromise and this gives me the best functionality/weight/price balance for what I do. I shoot mainly wildlife and landscapes but occasionally other stuff like local events, all just for fun.
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • So I ended up getting and X-H2 over the X-T5 because of a good deal that came up.  Needing to buy a card, I needed to figure out,  what is the real impact of a card's speed for photos?   In particular, I'm going to test how shooting at 15 FPS will differ between: Angelbird - AV PRO CFexpress B SE - 512 GB and Angelbird AV PRO CFexpress SX - 160 GB. How many shots can I get off before buffer fills, and how long does it take for the buffer to clear?    MOP: X-H2 Factory rest, card formated, no lens (body cap on), performance boost on, manual exposure, mechanical SS @ 1/8000, IS off, Shoting RAW Compressed Lossless with only one card in. Held shutter release till buffer filled, and used stop watch to see how long for buffer to clear. Subtracted two frames from total taken as that's how long it takes me to release the trigger once the buffer is full. Repeat 2x for sanity check.   ***TEST RESULTS***   ~~~64GB Lexar Pro SD 150MB/s~~~ 75 shots to fill buffer, 36 Seconds to clear it   ~~~Angelbird AV Pro SX 160GB~~~ 251 shots to fill buffer, 5 Seconds to clear it   .~~~Angelbird AV Pro SE 512GB~~~ 232 shots to fill buffer, 4 Seconds to clear it     ***Conculsion***   If burst shooting an X-H2 at 15 FPS is your thing, buy the Anglebird 512GB SE for the same price as the 160GB SX.   Below is a shot on X-T2 w/ the Fuji 70-300. I manged to fluke it off with a dead battery by turning the camera off and on again, and squeezing three more shots out (this was the last shot).   Ta for now!

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...