Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I used the XT2 with the included EF X8 flash, indoors, with reasonable amount of lighting in the room. Here are the settings;

 

ISO 200

SS125

F/8

 

Here's what I noticed;

 

The meter showed underexposure (-3)

The LCD was very dark and I could barely make out the subject (people)

The final image was well exposed.

 

I then bumped up the ISO to 6400, and noticed the following;

 

The meter still shows underexposure (-1.5)

The LCD was bright and clear

The final image was well exposed (only marginally brighter than the earlier one)

 

Which leads me to infer (probably incorrectly), that while I do not need a high ISO to get the final image right, I do need a high ISO to be able to see (in the LCD) what I'm framing!?

 

Does this make any sense? Is there something wrong with my thinking, or with my camera? If the flash can deliver a correct exposure at ISO 100, do I have to bump the ISO up to 6400 only because I need to see my subject while shooting?

 

Any advice/clarification would be very welcome.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I know what you are getting at. I normally in a flash shot: (try and have ISO 100, 200 or 400), so manually set. Set X shutter speed.

 

1) open the lens to wide open

2) press the shutter button half-way

3) framing and focus set

4) change the aperture to what I want

 

and press shutter.

 

This way I have a clear screen and can focus how I want and finally set the aperture to what I need. This works well so far.

 

I do have Cactus Flash now and am experimenting with it.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...