Jump to content

X-T1 - M42 Mount Lens


Recommended Posts

Probably not. Lenses designed to work on a mirrored camera need to sit further from the sensor than those designed to work with mirrorless. So the adapters move the lens out to where it needs to be to focus properly on the sensor.

 

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

The crop factor will be the usual 1.5x. The adapter is just adding the space that the lens needs to focus correctly. The lens is designed for a camera with a mirror assembly, so the flange distance is longer. If you attached the lens without the extra space, you wouldn't be able to get anything in focus because the lens would be projecting the scene about an inch behind your sensor, no matter where you focus. That's why mirrorless is good for adapting lenses, because no matter the flange distance the lens is designed for, mirrorless needs less space, so you can put in adapters of varying thicknesses to make every lens work.

 

If you want a truly small profile adapted kit, you should look into rangefinder lenses, as they're designed to work with no mirror assembly, and therefore a very small flange distance. I have a Voightlander 35mm that sits very snugly against the body of my X-T1 and makes a very compact package. Meanwhile, My M42 Helios 58mm sits quite far from the body, and is almost awkward to use sometimes. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here you go.

The three comparisons are against a gripped 5Dmk2 (taken with my phone, so I'm sorry about the poor image quality) 

The comparison photos look embarassingly bad, so also, have a "this is my kit" photo I took a couple of months ago

In the "kit" photo, you can see the Voightlander, and the thin black ring on the back of the lens is the entire adapter. Much lower profile than anything M42 will come close to.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

How does the IQ of the Voightlander on the X-T1 compare to the 5D II?

It's surprisingly fantastic, even wide open. The 5Dmk2 does better since it has 21 megapixels, but I haven't been disappointed by the Voight on the X-T1 yet. 

Here are a couple of scenes shot with the Voightlander.

The color one is a whole scene, and the black and white is a 100% crop.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • FYI Update - I just learned that the Zoom F6 & F3 recorder/mixers also synch to the UltraSynch Blue over bluetooth. I am planning to record 32bit float on the F6 and it will have frame accurate matching time-code with my two-XH2S' and one XH2.
    • Hopefully these will help some. For quite a while now Apple has put stuff into their operating system so that you cannot yourself open the connected camera’s card and see the images, you have to use their or third party software to do that.
    • Thanks for the instructions:  I was doing up to 3 successfully but can't wait to get home and try  4 and 5 and report back. Cheers, John
    • Okay, just for completeness sake: 1.     The camera’s menu connection setting is USB CARD READER. 2.    The computer is turned on, booted and nicely operational. 3..    With the camera turned off, connect the camera to the computer using a known-to-be-good USB C data plus power cable (a data only cable should work as well, a power only cable will not work). 3.   The camera’s charging light may turn on. Turn the camera on. The back screen probably will show the USB symbol as well as the USB letters. 4.    Start up the Image Capture app and see if the camera’s name appears in the devices list. 5.    In the Apple menu, select ‘About This Mac’, click on the ‘More Info…’ button, and on the right hand side of the window that opens, at its bottom is a button called ‘System Report…’, click on it. A new window should open, the left hand side has collapsible dropdown listings, the first is called “Hardware’, within it is the USB listing, select that. The right side pane should give you listings of all the USB devices connected at that moment, one of them should say something like USB PTP Camera. Does either 4. or 5. work?
    • Thanks, Yes I knew about the USB issue in newer Macs and macOS but that is why I tested it with High Sierra as well. Also the fact that every other camera easily connects via USB direct with the camera - definitely points out the fact that it is a FUJI specific problem.  Furthermore - I remember being able to direct connect early last year. I rarely take the Cards OUT of the camera  these days. The weird thing is I can connect my iPhone 15 via USB-C to 100s and pull files directly - puzzling. Problem is FUJI rarely listens to anyone.    
×
×
  • Create New...