How do I go long?

[drandyperry]

OK, I'm torn.

 

I've recently traded in all my nikon kit and gone Fuji, loving it so far.

 

I'm off to Le Mans soon and last year I took the D810 and the sigma 150-600.

 

Whilst this was completely awesome, I didn't use the lens for anything else as the short end was too long for anything apart from wildlife or motorsport.

 

I don't fancy shelling out £1400 for the 100-400 if I won't get much use out of it.

 

As far as I see it I have a couple of options. 50-140mm f/2.8 with a 1.4x TC. Used one for about £1k. The 55-200 used one for about £400.

 

I think I'll get more use out of the 50-140 when I'm not at Le Mans.....

 

Does anyone have any experience of the 50-140 with the TC. I've heard that the 55-200 is a nice lens.

 

Any other ideas how I can get to 300mm+ effective?

 

Cheers, AJP

[poster]

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Edited May 14, 2017 by Picturer

[drandyperry]

Don't forget the 50-230 XC mount. It's got a plastic mount, if that bothers you, but the optics are spot on.

 

And it's, relatively, cheap!

Wow, that is cheap ~£200 on ebay. Maybe worth a punt. It's relatively slow though at f/6.7. How would the 50-140 compare with a 2x TC on it?

 

I need to retain phase detect focusing for motorsports, I suspect the contrast detection won't be fast enough. Can you still use phase detect at f/6.7?

 

Probably just worth grabbing a go with it for that price. Is there anything longer apart from the 100-400?

 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

[poster]

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Edited May 14, 2017 by Picturer

[Larry Bolch]

I need to retain phase detect focusing for motorsports, I suspect the contrast detection won't be fast enough. Can you still use phase detect at f/6.7?

 

 

Unless you are shooting in the pits and garages, using zone focusing on the track saves a whole lot of headaches. (Covered all motorsports for a decade and a half.) At the distance to where you are allowed to work, depth of field is at its max. Depending upon the lens, set it at f/5.6-f/11 for maximum sharpness, manually focus on the racing line and then just shoot. Depth-of-field keeps you covered, and the lens never needs to hunt. You can put all your attention on capturing the moment, not worrying about the camera.

[milandro]

Don't forget the 50-230 XC mount. It's got a plastic mount, if that bothers you, but the optics are spot on.

 

And it's, relatively, cheap!

 

Absolutely!

 

You can buy it for as little as €150 and you will have a great back up lens , version II should have a little closer minimum focus and had more upgrades so also probably faster in focus.

 

Mine works fine although I’ve used it on moving subjects only for testing purposes, autofocus in continuous focus mode shoots sharp pictures of moving objects and nails it most of the times.

 

The “ speed” is really more in the mind of the beholder than anything else. I agree, one will be shooting at 11 or so with most subjects and you can crank up comfortably your ISO at 1600 or more.

 

Panning will reduce relative speed of the subject and OIS will take care of a little motion blur cased by the shaky hands (not too much).

Edited May 5, 2017 by milandro

[BillTaber]

I use the 100-400mm indoors for ice hockey and couldn't be happier. I have the 1.4X but would not use it (with this lens) in the hockey rink venue when shooting from a second deck above the rink.

Since I have the 50-140 as well, I might use the 1.4X with it in the hockey rink and see which setup I prefer.

By the way, I use zone focusing and have any out of focus issues.

Edited May 6, 2017 by BillTaber