Fujifilm Autofocusing Modes/Zones (Compared to Nikon ZF)

[underthesamemoon]

TLDR/Questions: How do you acquire initial and keep focus on objects not directly in the center of your frame, without taking the time to move the joystick/focus wheel to your desired spot, if you don't have consistent/reliable AF-C and tracking on the X100VI/fuji systems?

I've been using my Nikon ZF with a 40mm f/2 (AF-C, 3D tracking, face/eye-detect, back button focusing & recomposing) and was previously a Nikon D7100 shooter. I've used back button focusing to point the camera directly at my subject (at the center of the frame), hold down back-button focus, and slowly recompose by moving the camera left/right. It's been so great on my ZF, that I can leave the camera in AF-C basically 24/7 even for still subjects. I take pictures of family and friends, travel/vacation, street photography, etc., so pretty much a 'general' use case. It feels 'unnatural' and it takes me out of the moment when using the d-pad or focus lever to move around my focus block. I don't use AF-S nearly enough to focus and recompose with it, since I want to 'be ready to take the shot' especially outdoors when anything can happen, and I like how the focus square stays on top of the initially focused object on AF-C. Since the ZF's system was so good, all of my best pictures have stayed on AF-C and 3D tracking with back-button focusing.

But, I've recently acquired an X100VI and when using the same focus and recompose with BBF, it doesn't even come close (AF-C, Wide Area/Tracking, back button focusing and recomposing) in terms of precision, accuracy, speed, and most importantly reliability. It's unconfident even in the most static/non-action packed situations, the lens motor whirls and whines (lens limitation I suppose) even if I'm not moving the camera and I'm keeping it pointed straight on. I've set the AF-C with tracking sensitivity to the max, speed tracking 0, zone area switching auto.I've read online that Fuji users often use AF-S with single point, or AF-C with zone, but to be totally honest for everyday shots, I prefer to leave the camera in a single 'setting' and have it work accurately 98% of the time.

To me, that looks like the settings I have on Nikon ZF which produces tack-sharp and accurate images. Coming from the D7100, I felt like I had to actively try to get shots out of focus because it's so damn good!

Is there an optimal/ideal autofocus mode for me? Or, is the X100VI just 'not it' for me if I'm wanting this capacity at least compared to the Nikon ZF? Thank you!

[KimC]

It might just be you need to get used to a different workflow with the new camera. It's bound to feel different with a new camera but that doesn't mean that it's not for you. 

[abmet]

here is some information on the AFC custom settings I pulled from a website that might help choose settings.

 

Tracking Sensitivity

Tracking Sensitivity determines how long the camera waits before adjusting focus when another object enters the focus area. The higher the number, the longer the camera will wait. A high value could be useful when shooting a team sport when other players come between you and the subject or when other objects are likely to get in the way when panning with a subject.

Speed Tracking Sensitivity

Speed Tracking Sensitivity controls how sensitive the tracking system is to changes in the speed of the subject. The higher the value, the more the camera will attempt to respond to sudden changes in speed, however, the camera will have more trouble than usual with low contrast or very reflective subjects. A high value is useful for subjects such as wildlife that can move and change speed quickly.

Zone Area Switching

Zone Area Switching only takes effect when Zone AF mode is selected and it sets the focus area that is given priority within the selected zone. There are three settings; Center, Auto and Front. When the Center is selected the camera prioritises objects in the centre of the zone while in Front it gives priority to the subject nearest to the camera. Meanwhile, when Auto is selected, the camera locks focus on the subject at the centre of the zone but switches focus area as necessary to track it. Auto makes a good general-purpose setting, but it’s worth experimenting with the others. 

Using the AF-C Custom Settings

As mentioned earlier, the AF-C Custom Settings are selected via the AF/MF Setting page of the menu. Before you make a selection it’s a good idea to give a little thought to your subject and surroundings. In many instances Set 1 Multipurpose will serve you well, but you may get a higher hit rate in some situations with the others.

If you’re panning in an area with trees or street lamps, for example, Set 2Ignore Obstacles & Continue to Track Subject could be a good choice that keeps the camera focused on your subject. 

Set 3 For Accelerating/Decelerating Subject is a good choice for motorsports or races where the subject is likely to slow into a corner (for example) before accelerating away.

Set 4 For Suddenly Appearing Subject is useful when you don’t know when or where a subject will appear - perhaps if you’re waiting below the brow of the hill or around the bend in a race. 

Set 5 For Erratically Moving & Accel/Decel. Subject makes a good choice for wildlife, especially birds in flight as they move randomly and with varying speed.