Jump to content

Recommended Posts

The bad eye-relief on the XPro2 is the main reason I switched to the X-T2. It was so uncomfortable to me to shoot and to try to pay attention to the edges of my frame. I was making composition mistakes left and right because I couldn't see the whole scene at once. I'm really sad about it too, because other than that, I love the XPro2 a lot more.

Link to post
Share on other sites

this is strange. i thought only the x-e2s had this problem with tiny hole in the evf, and not being able to see the whole composition comfortably from corner to corner. i think this has to change. it is the most basic thing for creating a photograph confidently. i dont want to type a 100 line rant about it here. i simply expect fujifilm to improve this hindrance in any future viewfinder camera they might be thinking to put on the market.

Link to post
Share on other sites

this is strange. i thought only the x-e2s had this problem with tiny hole in the evf, and not being able to see the whole composition comfortably from corner to corner. i think this has to change. it is the most basic thing for creating a photograph confidently. i dont want to type a 100 line rant about it here. i simply expect fujifilm to improve this hindrance in any future viewfinder camera they might be thinking to put on the market.

 

I'm really surprised by the fact that I don't hear about it more, and it didn't get mentioned more often in the reviews. For a while I thought that maybe I was anatomically different than most people so maybe it was worse for me, but I think the reality is that for a lot of people's style, the edges of the frame don't matter as much. When you're capturing the moment happening in the middle of the frame, who cares about the edges? It's fine for street or travel much of the time. I do portraiture and landscape work so the edges of the frame and the overall composition matter a lot to me. 

 

I was very surprised that it wasn't improved on the XPro2 as well, though.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...