Why not....

[lferreira]

2 suggestions

a) if the camera is able to detect the blowout whites due to over exposure - why not implement a real time digital neutral density filter that bring down the exposure of only these areas in steps controlled by the photographer

have a shooting mode that enables you to set the 2 extreme points that define the required depth of field so all distances in between are in focus (i had this in a very old non digital canon)

 

[johant]

Why not A? Because the overexposure happens before the signal is digitised? Any ideas?

Edited October 20, 2016 by johant

[Jürgen Heger]

a) It should be possible to read and reset the sensor multiple times during one exposure and combine the pictures in the camera. This could give RAWs with more bits and a higher dynamic range and would allow a lower base ISO. However, with ES the T2 is limited to 14 frame per second. So may be this technique could be used for shutter speed of a 1/2 second and slower. The additional time for the read out would not increase the total exposure time significantly and motion blur would not be affected. So at least in the case where people want a long exposure time at bright sun light to get the soft look of moving water this would help. Of course you could also take 4 pictures and combine them in software. But this would be more work and you can't see the result on location.

 

In same cases it would be sufficient if the exposure measurement would always measure the brightest spot and adjust the exposure to avoid blown out high lights.

 

I think the biggest problem is the definition of sharp. In analog times the circle of diffuson should be smaller than 1/1500 of the diagonal of the picture. But this corresponds to 3 to 6 mega pixel. So on a 24 MP camera the depth of field is much smaller than the marks on a lens from analog times would suggest. So the user had to define what is sharp enough for him.

[sacherjj]

Hopefully, this would be easy to turn off.  Sometimes you just want to blow out the background.   

 

I'd love metering like on the Nikon 810 that is setup so that you expose to the right as much as possible without blowing out highlights.  This gives you the maximum data.