Jump to content

Recommended Posts

The X-T1 was a game changer for me.  It cut my photoback weight in half yet gave me better quallty photos compared to my cropped sensor Nikon.

 

The X-T2 improved that even more with the little things:

 

  • Can change the battery without removing the ballhead quick release plate.
  • I no longer change the drive mode when adjusting the ISO, a regular occurrence on the X-T1 which led to many instances of inadvertent continuous shooting.
  • Having the ability to unlock the ISO and shutter speed dials is a big one.
  • The readout data displayed in the EVF is really nicer
  • The two axis LCD screen is great. No more lying on the ground when doing a vertical ground level shot with the camera on an inverted center column
  • The 4 way selector buttons on the back are finally fingertip detectable.  I'm glad the small drops of Sugru on my X-T1 buttons comes off easily.
  • Playback view selection is multiple presses of the Back button and not a two-button affair. Sadly, overexposure blinkies is not available on the larger views.
  • Formatting a card doesn't require menu navigation. Nice
  • latch on the card door.

 

My only concern is whether I can learn all the functions well enough to use them in the field before X-T3 comes out. I keep the manual on my iPhone for brain freezes when there's only a few moments when the light is right.

Link to post
Share on other sites

"Formatting a card doesn't require menu navigation. Nice"

I never had an XT1 so have no basis for comparison, but as far as I can tell, you have to go into user settings to access the 'format' command. And it is not available to be added to 'my menu'. Am I missing a shortcut? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

"Formatting a card doesn't require menu navigation. Nice"

 

I never had an XT1 so have no basis for comparison, but as far as I can tell, you have to go into user settings to access the 'format' command. And it is not available to be added to 'my menu'. Am I missing a shortcut? 

Hold the delete button down for a couple of seconds and click the rear wheel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • Anyone out there have any experience/feedback on the Laowa 55 mm tilt shift? I’d be using it on the GFX 50s ii. 
    • Hi, I'm researching a gimbal to get someone as a present & they use a Fuji XS-10. I did a quick search of previous threads on gimbals but all of them seem to either get no replies or spammed by a link to an Amazon list. I'd appreciate any comments from folks who've actually used specific gimbals with the XS-10. I'm aware that some, such as certain models from Zhiyun, DJI & FeiyuTech either don't say that they are fully compatible with the XS-10 but other sites say they do work ok but some functions don't. It's quite difficult to work out which functions work & which don't. Thanks.
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • This was snapped during a lunch.  Total shooting time—a few seconds. We so often read that a proper "portrait" should be snapped with a longer than normal lens, a low ISO to get lots of detail, and have a soft light held up above the head, and slightly to the side. The key, in my opinion, is always carry a camera.  Have your camera available to capture candid, authentic photographs.  Available light, no posing.   This portrait used 2000 ISO, the lens wide open at f4, and 1/100 sec. to stop any movement.  I didn't even take time to compose—I just snapped.  I leave the "Face Detection" on unless I'm photographing a landscape or subject other than a person. The GFX100RF has the equivalent of a 28mm lens.  The large sensor renders fine detail even at fairly high ISO ratings.  And the drawing of the lens is just perfect in my opinion.  It was set to B & W, with slightly reduced sharpness and clarity (set in-camera).  Ideal for "portraits."  Now, for some subjects I will likely increase the sharpness and clarity to the normal setting.  The camera is new, and I'm still experimenting with it.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...