Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So I just got the 50s and have some old minolta and contax lenses which I’ve bought adapters for, and getting the mitakon 65.

 

I’ve never used manual lenses with no electronic contacts before. I managed to take a picture with a contax lens after 5 minutes of putzing around the settings and figuring out you have to turn shoot without lens on. Have a couple of questions.

- Do I have to register the lens that I’m using?

- Does something like aperture priority work? Or am I shooting full manual for exposure as well.

- any other tips for getting a good experience with these manual lenses? I’m assuming using magnification in evf is best and to not trust peaking too much, especially for portraits.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Edited by redhubcap
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 10/17/2023 at 9:08 PM, redhubcap said:

- Do I have to register the lens that I’m using?

- Does something like aperture priority work? Or am I shooting full manual for exposure as well.

1.) No, no you do not. But, there is a menu option whereby you can enter a focal length for several manual lenses. This length (when a manual lens is on the body) is entered into the EXIF data. Note: You need to switch between the manual fl settings for the various manual lenses, the camera does not know which manual lens is attached.

2.) That would be a neat trick to have, but alas, no. Aperture Priority needs the camera to control the shutter speed, etc., while knowing the f-stop, but without any electrical contacts on the lens, …

Focus peaking works well enough as do the other manual focus assists the camera provides. This is because the assists use the image that hits the sensor, things such as good lighting, etc. are determining factors.

This may help: https://blog.roycruz.com/using-manual-lenses-with-the-fuji-x-system/

p.s. Welcome to the forum.

edit: Dang typos!

Edit for 2.): As @thelostkiwi mentions, if you are fortunate enough to have a lens with an aperture ring, you can get Aperture Priority to work. Depending on the body you may need to set the Mode Selector switch to 'Auto' (this the switch under the shutter speed switch) and set the shutter speed to 'A'.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you! This is really helpful. Especially the blog post.

 

One more question: If I'm adapting FF lenses, to get the field of view FF equivalent mounted on GFX, I have to multiply the FF focal length by .79 correct? So if I'm adapting a 50mm Mitakon, that would be a field of view of 39.5mm on the GFX.

Link to post
Share on other sites

These may help: https://www.thephoblographer.com/2016/09/27/what-to-expect-from-the-fujifilm-gf-lenses-with-their-full-frame-equivalent/#:~:text=What you get when you do this is,f%2F2.2 GF 63mm f%2F2.8 %2F%2F FF 50mm f%2F2.2

https://shuttermuse.com/fujifilm-gfx-crop-factor-and-gf-lens-35mm-full-frame-equivalent-focal-lengths/#:~:text=Most people are used to seeing lens focal,to a 50mm lens on the GFX system.

I believe the 0.79 factor is for going from GFX format to FF format, I am not certain whether you use 0.79 or 1.6 for adapting FF to GFX.

But try not to get too hung up on that. After a while, it will be just like using any other format; put a lens on the body, turn the camera on and look through the viewfinder, if you need a different field of view, change to a different lens😁.

edit: p.s. Please let us know what kind of results you get, I am curious whether or not you get a “bright” center image circle vignetting out to a black rectangle.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

One point to note. If you have a camera with IBIS and you don't set the lens length through the menus it can play havoc with image stabilisation and make it difficult to hold the subject steady. Especially noticeable if the camera is told it's a telephoto but you actually have a wide fitted. 

You can use A mode too. Set the aperture on the lens and the camera will compensate with the shutter speed /iso.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I found the reddit topic i refere to :  https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/comments/1pc3f1e/cant_apply_new_fujifilm_gfx_55_lut/ "Update for y'all, It's just like what @ExpBalSat said, it's because of the backslashes in the names break them. I changed the file name and it works now. "   For me it was the solution. Realy annoying if it doesn’t work for you 😕  
    • Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
    • First post here but long time fuji shorter. I use the XT2 with the 23mm f2 / 35mm 1.4 / 16-80mm f4 I'm considering the 23mm f1.4 r (Non-WR) About me: - I shoot black and white only. - I like macro details to wide open landscapes and everything in-between. - I shoot mostly for art, intrigue and creativity of the image. My question - is the 23mm f1.4 going to offer me any meaningful difference over the f2 for the above scenarios Thanks and sorry for bringing it up again...
×
×
  • Create New...