Jump to content

Starting with manual lenses


redhubcap

Recommended Posts

So I just got the 50s and have some old minolta and contax lenses which I’ve bought adapters for, and getting the mitakon 65.

 

I’ve never used manual lenses with no electronic contacts before. I managed to take a picture with a contax lens after 5 minutes of putzing around the settings and figuring out you have to turn shoot without lens on. Have a couple of questions.

- Do I have to register the lens that I’m using?

- Does something like aperture priority work? Or am I shooting full manual for exposure as well.

- any other tips for getting a good experience with these manual lenses? I’m assuming using magnification in evf is best and to not trust peaking too much, especially for portraits.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Edited by redhubcap
Link to post
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, redhubcap said:

- Do I have to register the lens that I’m using?

- Does something like aperture priority work? Or am I shooting full manual for exposure as well.

1.) No, no you do not. But, there is a menu option whereby you can enter a focal length for several manual lenses. This length (when a manual lens is on the body) is entered into the EXIF data. Note: You need to switch between the manual fl settings for the various manual lenses, the camera does not know which manual lens is attached.

2.) That would be a neat trick to have, but alas, no. Aperture Priority needs the camera to control the shutter speed, etc., while knowing the f-stop, but without any electrical contacts on the lens, …

Focus peaking works well enough as do the other manual focus assists the camera provides. This is because the assists use the image that hits the sensor, things such as good lighting, etc. are determining factors.

This may help: https://blog.roycruz.com/using-manual-lenses-with-the-fuji-x-system/

p.s. Welcome to the forum.

edit: Dang typos!

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you! This is really helpful. Especially the blog post.

 

One more question: If I'm adapting FF lenses, to get the field of view FF equivalent mounted on GFX, I have to multiply the FF focal length by .79 correct? So if I'm adapting a 50mm Mitakon, that would be a field of view of 39.5mm on the GFX.

Link to post
Share on other sites

These may help: https://www.thephoblographer.com/2016/09/27/what-to-expect-from-the-fujifilm-gf-lenses-with-their-full-frame-equivalent/#:~:text=What you get when you do this is,f%2F2.2 GF 63mm f%2F2.8 %2F%2F FF 50mm f%2F2.2

https://shuttermuse.com/fujifilm-gfx-crop-factor-and-gf-lens-35mm-full-frame-equivalent-focal-lengths/#:~:text=Most people are used to seeing lens focal,to a 50mm lens on the GFX system.

I believe the 0.79 factor is for going from GFX format to FF format, I am not certain whether you use 0.79 or 1.6 for adapting FF to GFX.

But try not to get too hung up on that. After a while, it will be just like using any other format; put a lens on the body, turn the camera on and look through the viewfinder, if you need a different field of view, change to a different lens😁.

edit: p.s. Please let us know what kind of results you get, I am curious whether or not you get a “bright” center image circle vignetting out to a black rectangle.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • As @Greybeard wrote, there is more going on than just saving a changed setting. Even if it were only that, it would still be tricky. Different settings take up different size spaces in the file. Trying to overwrite that can easily wreck the file. Early computer based EXIF editors would not do more than report settings for the raw files they would allow users to read. Your Velvia image file may take 2MB more storage than the Provia one, but changing from one to the other seamlessly would be difficult to pull off without a massive amount of processing. All while doing other camera stuff. RAF is vastly different in what it does than JPEG or TIFF or ...
    • I didn't know about that JPG. But for me it would be handy if the "RAW including that JPG" could be updated. I don't want to bother about editing photos on a computer. I just use the computer for archiving them and I "use" the photos on the tablet where I have my viewing archive. Just ideas. Digital photography could be so "easy" or "convenient" if all those things were possible. I want the pictures, good pictures. I don't want to bother with software. Sometimes it is a little detail which can make your experience so great, or which can spoil everything.
    • Yes I used that software years ago with an X100F, but  then it stopped working, because the new software no longer worked on my computer (32 vs 64 bit). At the moment I am a Linux user on a 10 year old machine. My most modern "computer" are my phone and tablet.
    • Its a little more than just the metadata - there is also a 13MP jpg stored in the RAF file - if the RAF file was to be updated I'd probably prefer another copy.
    • Have you tried using the Fujifilm X Raw Studio software on a computer? You can still use the camera for the actual conversion and it would solve most of your problems in naming and batch conversion.
×
×
  • Create New...