Building a Fuji kit

[Yoan]

Hello everyone, first time posting here - hoping I'm in the right forum!

First of all - some background. I've been interested in photography for a few years now and that's why I bought a DSLR (Nikon D90) back in 2011. Since then I've collected a few (budget) lenses - Tokina 11-16/2.8, 18-105 VR, 55-300 VR, 35/1.8 and 50/1.8. I would usually go out photographing with two or, rarely, three lenses at most but this still is a large and heavy kit. That's why I considered I'd benefit a smaller camera and lens combination for a carry-around kit.

I've read numerous reviews of mirrorless cameras and lenses and I came to the conclusion I'll be best suited by a X-T10 with a 27/2.8 lens (or 23/2, when it comes out ). I'm a student and will be working for the summer which is the perfect opportunity to save some dough and get that kit. I've tested it (plus a few more lenses and bodies) in a store and they all seem great.

After I get acquainted with the camera (and hopefully like it enough) I could expand my setup to include a couple more lenses like a Samyang 12/2 and a telephoto (probably the 60/2.4 macro and a 50-230 zoom). After looking at my photos I've come to the conclusion my most used focal lengths are at around 12mm, 30mm and 60-80mm - so a three-prime kit should serve me well. If it works well enough it could even completely substitute my DSLR system. I wouldn't mind trying old manual lenses for a cheap short telephoto substitution - like a 50 or a 85 mm one - as well as focal length reducers.
I read there'll be a Fuji sale soon so my initial combo would cost like $900 but for me it's still quite an investment. Therefore I could consider a used X-E1 and pancake lens for starters. I read X-E1s AF is slower than newer bodies - is it that bad in practice? I rarely shoot fast-moving subjects so I was wondering if it's up to the task. The D90 is quite old now but its AF is still snappy in most conditions. Have Fuji updated X-E1's focus peaking with color options yet? If not that wouldn't be very usable for MF lenses.

I hope I haven't bored you with my long post. Am I on the right track? I'd love to hear your thoughts. If you're interested you could view my photos here.
Thanks in advance and have a great day!

Edited May 6, 2016 by Yoan

[Max_Elmar]

Hi Yoan-

The X-E1 is still very useable but if you try a a later body, you will want one. The IQ is the same, but everything else about the X-E2 is newer, better, and faster. I kept my X-E1 as a back up body. Running FW 2.4, which was the last FW update that added functionality. No colors for focus peaking. No classic chrome film simulation (which is the only color film sim I really like.) Slower refresh on the EVF - quite choppy in dim light. AF doesn't really bother me. Still using DSLR for action/sport.

 

I started with the original 3 XF lenses, the 18/2, 35/1.4, and 60/2.4 - all three are very good to great lenses to this day and the trio can handle most tasks quite well. I got the 18-55 to have a stabilized lens. It's an excellent zoom, I use it a lot for travel and events - still prefer the primes when the situation allows. I got a Rokinon 12/2, which is an outstanding value. It's sharper, faster, with less coma and distortion than anything else in the range, even the Zeiss. But it has CA - which the camera (or a good RAW converter) deals with pretty well. The XC 55-230 is another great value - especially for travel, as it is nice and light and small - so I often bring it - and t's pretty sharp - happy with the results.

 

Waiting patiently for (what I hope will be) the 23/2 WR. Will get the 23/1.4 if the WR is just a rumor or if it doesn't perform. Would love to have the 90/2 and maybe the 14/2.8 - both are nearly perfect lenses, as far as I can tell.

 

Everyone lusts after the 56/1.2 or uses an old 50/1.8 on an adapter for portrait lens but I find the 60 to be wonderful for portraits or light macro. Beautiful bokeh - and decently sharp right across the frame, even wide open.

 

It's great that the Fuji works well with adapted lenses - and and I have tried more than a few - but iI haven't found one to out perform any of the native lenses. I don't own any $$$$ Leica lenses to try - so I can't say absolutely.  

 

It's a great system.

 

Regards,

 

Max_Elmar

Edited May 6, 2016 by Max_Elmar

[Yoan]

Hi Max and thanks for your reply!

 

Yes, I've tried the X-T10, X-E2s and X-E1. The latter's viewfinder is slower indeed but I think I can live with that - especially for just $200. Is it easy enough to manually focus using the white peaking?

 

Best,

Yoan

[Max_Elmar]

Hi Max and thanks for your reply!

 

Yes, I've tried the X-T10, X-E2s and X-E1. The latter's viewfinder is slower indeed but I think I can live with that - especially for just $200. Is it easy enough to manually focus using the white peaking?

 

Best,

Yoan

 

Yes - manual focus is very useable. Tap the rear command wheel for an enlarged view. Much more accurate and repeatable than a DSLR (live view excepted). Just not quite as nice as the X-E2... 

[Jürgen Heger]

I think the X-E1 is very usable at good light condition. For me the AF and focus peaking work very well. But unfortunately the low light/high ISO performance of the sensor is much better than the AF's one. So you are tempted to use the camera at very low light conditions which pushes the AF to its limits. Focus peaking is usable at low light but the EVF becomes very noisy.

[Yoan]

Yes - manual focus is very useable. Tap the rear command wheel for an enlarged view. Much more accurate and repeatable than a DSLR (live view excepted). Just not quite as nice as the X-E2... 

 

Thanks! Yes, manual focus on DSLRs (APS-C ones at least) is terrible especially with new AF lenses.

 

I think the X-E1 is very usable at good light condition. For me the AF and focus peaking work very well. But unfortunately the low light/high ISO performance of the sensor is much better than the AF's one. So you are tempted to use the camera at very low light conditions which pushes the AF to its limits. Focus peaking is usable at low light but the EVF becomes very noisy.

 

Thanks for the input. I guess it'll come down depending on my budget.

[Yoan]

Okay, I've a couple more questions.

First of all, how does the Auto ISO feature work on Fuji cameras? Can I set a minimum shutter speed like on Nikons?

Also, does the viewfinder show the actual exposure or it fixes under/overexposure?

Thanks in advance.

[Aswald]

Yes, you can set min ISO on auto ISO mode.

EVF shows the actual exposure.

[Yoan]

Excellent, thanks!