Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I’ve owned a X-T30 for several years and I’m in need of an upgrade. The main thing I’m looking for is an articulating screen as I do a lot of videos for my YouTube channel. Wondering if I should get the X-T4 which is $150 off right now or go for the XH2. 
 

I don’t do any pro work, mainly just photos of family and friends, and travel. On the video side it’s all YouTube videos of me speaking to camera and simple b-roll. 
 

I do own an Atomos Ninja that I use with the X-T30, but I mainly bought it as a display rather than a recording device. 

Edited by molocono
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got the X-H2 yesterday and really love the grip and the news lens AF is very fast in comparison to the X-T20 I gave to my wife. If you don't care about the grip, the huge 40mp sensor, the fast autofocus then the X-T4 is good enough especially with the price. Initially I'd rather get the X-T4 but the price here in the Philippines is just outrageous and they don't have body only imagine paying approximately 2,100.00 converted to USD while the X-H2 only costs approximately 150 dollars more than the X-T4 with Kit Lens.

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, TheKahuna said:

I got the X-H2 in October shortly after it was released as an upgrade to my X-T2, and I am often shocked by just how amazing the 40 Mb sensor is. The upgraded autofocus is topnotch too. The X-H2 will be a camera you can use for years and years.

Yes, I feel you here the autofocus is amazing. I'm sure the body and features will last years too but hopefully the screen does as well :) I heard lots of people saying that the screen is less durable than that of the XT1,2,3 and 5 but lets see.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have the X-T30 II and recently added an X-T4. I especially like the controls on the X-T4 with more dials for less menu hunting. I also like the physically larger body.

If it's articulating screens you want, it definitely has it, and I find it convenient and versatile.

No experience with the XH2.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...