Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I've mostly been a dedicated Architectural/Real Estate Photographer for a couple of years now, but as I have been since 2011, I am still the official photographer for TEDxDirigo here in Maine. The last TEDx event I shot I was still using a full on Nikon kit and this weekend was the first workout that I've really had with just my Fujis.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/treehouseinstitute/sets/72157660955782332/

I'm very happy over all. I used the older X-E1 with the 35/1.4 or 10-24/4 and played with the 56/1.2 for shots in the crowd. Most of the speakers images were made with the X-T1 and the 55-200/3.5-4.8. The wider stage shots were made with the 10-24/4 on the X-E1 and they aren't quite up to the same low light standards of the newer X-T1 of course.

As it doesn't look like an X-E3 with a flip LCD is forthcoming anytime soon and as I found the 55-200 too long (at the wide end) for this venue but essential to get in tighter, I may end up getting an X-E2 (I really prefer this form of a camera even to my X-T1) and pick up the more convenient 18-135/3.5-5.6.

Most of the time I am shooting between f/5.6 and f/8 for stage work of this sort of event so I don't NEED fast glass in a zoom and 135mm is long enough for most any stage work I've ever done but would also allow me to go wider when I need to quickly, without changing bodies.

Getting the 18-135 would likely make the 55-200 redundant (and the 18-135 is weather sealed.) I may be able to pay for the new lens with the older one.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello, my first post to this forum. I'm no way professional, just a hobbyist :)

 

I've followed a similar path: switched from Nikon FX to Fuji when XT-1 was released. I mainly shoot events now, weddings and other parties. Just coping with one body for now, but could really use a second one (XE2, XT-10 or maybe some new release..). I shoot guest mainly with 23mm, speakers with 56mm. Usually 18-135mm is too dark for me, despite the excellent OS. When I bought the system I thought it would be the main lens for me (used to use 70-200mm f4 with Nikon), but f1.4 is nicer for me and finally I can nail the focus (never could with FX gear). For now I'm happy with the 23mm and 52mm, thought about switching to 50-140mm, but cropped f1.2 gets me good results. For the reach I've thought about adapted 180mm AI-S f2.8 from Nikon, but for now I've managed to sneak in closer.

 

The Fuji system is pretty much useless in dark when shooting moving targets (i.e. guest walking in / hand shaking), have to pre-focus for that. Dancing shots are more difficult, but can be managed. However in church I've managed to get good focus when bride walks in, better than D700 and 50mm f1.4. Usually use the 23mm for that because of the faster focus. 

 

Overall I'm happy with the system. Colors are amazing and focusing on still targets with large aperture is easier. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I keep my X-T1 on auto ISO. Yesterday I was trying to capture a heron at the beaver dam in our neighborhood wetlands. I use the viewfinder which doesn't show me the histogram (is there a setting for this that I'm missing?) but the exposure meter showed that it was exposed correctly. The bird flew off and when I checked the display, the photos I took were so dark I couldn't see the scene at all (think shooting with your lens cap on). The photos had been taken at ISO 800. So I have two questions, why did the exposure meter say everything was groovy when it wasn't, and why didn't it go above 800 in order to capture a correct exposure? I shoot in raw and was able to save the photo in Lightroom.
    • Hi everyone, I've noticed that when I edit my pictures in Photoshop from Lightroom, some of the Fujifilm profiles are not applied, specifically Bleach Bypass and Sepia. I shoot with a GFX 50sii. It seems I'm not the only person with this problem, as I read this in a post on an Adobe forum: https://community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/photoshop-stripping-fuji-camera-profiles-from-lightroom-import/m-p/14414407?attachment-id=240572 Does anyone have any suggestions on how to solve this issue? TIA
    • Hello, could someone give me some basic settings for beginners for a Fujifilm X-M5 knowing that I have a TTArtisan AF 27mm F2.8 with it? Thank you
    • It's interesting to me - When I want to shoot video in M mode,  I set ISO (for example 500) and start video. But ISO switch itself to A ISO and  set to 1000 or other values. What's  going on?
    • Hi, I want to transfer pictures from the SD card i my X100T, and i have inserted a USB cable between the camera and the PC, but the camera does not show up in the PC. It seems that the camera are charging through the USB cable, but i cannot se the camera anywhere in the file manager or anywhere else, on the PC, what am i doing wrong? Regards Martin 
×
×
  • Create New...