Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have a quick question regarding the XT-2.  I jumped from a Canon 40D to the XT-2 some time ago.  I love the camera and the feel and output are fantastic for me.  With that said, I have noticed that I have a harder time (on the Fuji) transferring what I see in my viewfinder to my computer screen.  In other words there seems to be a disconnect between what I see in the computer and what I remember being in the viewfinder.  I don't think it is a color or exposure issue, maybe a framing?  Not quite sure.  Do I simply need more experience with the camera?  I'm using a 18-55 for both cameras.  Thank you.

Edited by Filand
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well to begin with, are your viewfinder settings identical, for brightness and white balance etc?

Have you set up both cameras, on all the same settings, so as to make an identical simultaneous photo of something?

Because otherwise, everything is subjective.

I used Canon for decades, and loved their equipment. But Fujifilm have had me in their grasp for twenty years now ... 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Another possibility, of which I was just reminded in going out with my 2nd ("new"ish) X-T2 for a quarantine break after 1/4 year. A bit rusty. But I had just the experience as you, in terms of viewfinder vs. output to computer. Then I remembered my experience while shooting the images (using viewfinder mostly). That is this:  I was in the park shooting spring nature, bracketing 3 "film" types as I do. While  looking into the viewfinder I found everything overly vivid compared to both RL and what I imagined as the digital product.

And I've just remembered this - note to self: must correct!  With my first X-T2 I made a point of choosing the viewer mode, both the saturation level and whether it displayed the film emulation in the preview, or not. Those are settings which directly influence what you see vs. what you get. So on the off-chance this is the culprit, the good news is you can customize what you see so it better suits you.

Edited by FenFotos
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...