Wing0949

I've been confused and don't believe the hype that Fuji dishes us to us either.
 
Add salt to wound, now the X-T20 has 4k?!  WTF?!  It's not only smaller than the X-Pro2, it's even smaller than the X-T2... and it has a tilt screen, but more on that later..  I don't do video much so it's not THAT big a deal to me, BUT, it's 2017.. even 2016, and they have over 4 years to develop the X-Pro2, no reason a modern camera can't have 4k as a given option even if it's not necessarily what the camera will be primarily intended for.. 4k should be a standard, period, and let the consumer/user decide how he or she will use it or not.
 
Yeah, no articulating screen, for me, was lame. I have owned enough mirrorless cameras with and without a tilt/articulating screen and I can say with 100% certainty, it makes absolutely no difference to the bulk, feel or weight of the camera. Don't care what other nay sayers preach, you CAN choose to not use it and it will never get in the way or be noticed.. I'd rather have the ability to get that low or high angle shot when needed.. In my mind, if the X-Pro2 had the 3-way tilt screen as the X-T2, I don't need front facing, it would be perfect.
 
Yeah, it seems like nearly all other X cameras can do USB charging these days, that should have been an option also included in the X-Pro2.. I have enough extra batteries charged and ready, but as a matter of convenience, having USB charging would have been a nice added touch had they implemented in the X-Pro2.
 
yes, as some have speculated, probably all part of Fuji's elaborate scheme to make us not have all in 1 camera to buy multiple ones.. although, if you think about it, save that of the OVF, the X-T2 pretty much has it all, doesn't it? So, IDK?.. kind of unfair unbalanced feature set across Fuji X line I feel sometimes.
 
With all that said, I still love and have only the X-Pro2 as my camera of choice for now.. it still bugs me that they could have made it 100% perfect had they added just those few touches which, leaving cost aside, from a tech and design stand point, there's no good reason why they couldn't have.

Is AF performance different between 77 & 273 AF points? Or is it purely a matter of allowing you more or less selectable AF points but the AF performance is exactly the same either way.  You're not going to get any faster, more accurate AF or tracking with more AF points, will you?

Optically inferior? I wouldn't say so, but then again I don't have the 18-55 to compare and using the X-Pro2, I prefer primes anyways and appreciate the extra stop at f/2.
 
On the newer bodies, especially on the X-Pro2, it's really fast to focus so you shouldn't have any problems there.
 
It's a great all around lens if you're into the 28mm (35mm equivalent) focal length.
 
I was going to sell mine in favor of going even wider like the 14mm f/2.8 or even the 16mm f/1.4, but I decided to keep it after ordering my X-Pro2 and haven't regretted keeping it.
 
I brought 3 primes on a recent trip to Hong Kong.. the widest being the 18mm, and I also brought the 35mm f/2 for mid-range & 56mm f/1.2 just to get that extra reach.  I thought I'd use the 35mm f/2 as my go to lens for the majority of the trip, but I was wrong and ended up using the 18mm for probably at least 80% of the trip. It's just so versatile and in a dense city like Hong Kong with tall buildings and people in close quarters, the 18mm made a lot of sense.  Besides being able to capture more in 1 shot and help provide more context to the image, I found even if I had space to try and shoot further away from my intended subject using the 56mm or even the 35mm, the city was so packed with people all the time, there was always going to be somebody running into my shot a good lot of the time.. so, the 18mm forced me get in closer to my subject and was able to capture more unobstructed image than my other 2 lenses. A great thing about getting closer to subject is you can offset the subject in the composition so it wouldn't even seem like you could be aiming the camera at them, or rather framing them into the image as your intended subject, and take the shot with surprisingly little disturbance to the scene.
 
Sure, you could do this by setting the 18-55mm zoom to 18mm, but I also appreciate the extra stop of light and just that bit of extra shallower depth of field to help isolate the subject and nicely blur out the background (and foreground if you have elements to do so)... plus, the 18mm f2 is just that more smaller and discreet.
 
I love the images I got with the 18mm f2 and it's smaller size and lighter weight was great on the X-Pro2.. and  you can see your aperture settings as opposed to the 18-55mm zoom which is variable so it doesn't have that feature. Some say the edges aren't as sharp wide open, but for street photography, and even some bit of portraiture, I don't think having absolute sharpness from center to the edge is essential.
 
Really depends on the type of photography you plan to do.. the 18-55 is probably a very sensible choice as it covers so much and it does so fairly well.. But, if you prefer primes, the 18mm f/2 is not a bad way to go if you like the 28mm (35mm equivalent) focal length.  Great general purpose lens and for me surprisingly more used and useful than the 35mm or even 23mm fuji lenses, especially if you want to capture more, are in crowded situations, and can or need to get closer to your subject in one of the smallest and lightest lenses.
 
The 14mm f/2.8 is nice, but maybe a bit too wide for most occasions. I may have loved it for landscapes (cityscapes) or when I wanted a more immersive image where people were secondary to the environment. I think the 16mm f1.4 is nice, but considerably more expensive and heavier and bulkier.. but, I do like the results I'm seeing people get from it.. my next choice if money and size/weight is not an option.

Yes, I'm also certain the frame lines move using the OVF.  How it works depends if MF or AF.  With MF, it moves and corrects as soon as you start turning the focus ring. With AF, it only corrects and updates after you've half-pressed shutter release to AF lock.. will hold as long as you don't lift your finger off the shutter release.. OR, if you use AF-L then it will hold, but can adjust if you have manual AF-M set to adjust manually after the AF-L lock (or after half pressing shutter release and continue to hold).
 
But, that leads me to what I'd like to see fixed with AF-M (that's autofocus with manual adjustment, in case this wasn't clear).
 
What I'd like as firmware updates are a few things regarding AF & MF:
 
1) Have another way to exit check focus magnified view when using EVF and in AF mode other than to press the rear command dial or lift finger off shutter release which essentially causes me to re-AF acquire and start the process over (which is fine if I want to start over, but I often do not). Can there be another button reassigned that's perhaps easier to reach? Some have even suggested the front viewfinder lever or the function button in the front viewfinder lever. If the front viewfinder lever itself, perhaps a quick push to the left? I know pushing lever to the left engages/disengages ERF, but that's only when using the OVF, right?  and you don't get the same focus check functionatliy as you do using the EVF.. So, when you are using the EVF, a quick left push of the viewfinder lever to disengage focus check easier... perhaps being able to assign it to the function button within the lever itself?
 
2) AF-L button be available when using lenses that have manual focus ring engaged and in MF mode.
 
3) While on topic of AF, improve Face Detect.. it mostly works, but just enough instances where it fails. The X100T is even better. Can we get Face Detect to work better on the X-Pro2?
 
4) Have AE-L button be reassigned as another function button? The way camera is set up and I shoot, I don't find the AE-L button used often for exposure lock, I just prefer to half press the shutter, if not locking exposure manually.
 
 
To describe the issue I personally have regarding focus check, please read below.
 
With EVF using AF:  I find I want to quickly AF and perform fine tune focusing manually to be certain. I Focus Check, view is magnified and I can adjust focus more clearly, that's great, right?
 
BUT, after I've done my fine manual focusing, I'm stuck in magnified view, still.  I often just leave the focus point dead center, but that may not where I want the focus to actually be to compose and frame the final image.  But, since I'm magnified, I can no longer be certain what my framing and composition is.  So, if I release my half-press of shutter release button, it will zoom out and I can recompose if necessary. However, when I go to press the shutter release to take the photo, it will AF again but it will do so obviously in the wrong spot.
 
The only way I can zoom out otherwise is one of 2 ways.
 
1) I press the rear command dial.. but, it's pretty recessed and can be a bit awkward to try to press firmly and when I try, I'll find many times my finger over the shutter release loses pressure so the half press to hold focus is released and I have to attempt it again.. Or, I end up pressing the shutter release and taking the shot prematurely.  Yes, I believe it is that hard to press the rear command dial to disengage focus check like this.  Keep in mind this is both with shutter release on half press, no AF-L.
 
2) If I use AF-L (and I have it set to On/Off toggle, not press and hold only), then I can manually check focus and can more easily press the joystick to zoom out, recompose, and then take the shot without making the camera refocus..because I used AF-L.. That's pretty much been my workaround, but, I may not necessarily always want to use AF-L.. especially if I'm working a scene that's rather active and I may need to refocus AF fast. I'd really prefer to just AF without committing to AF-L and force to toggle on and off all the time.
 
The other workaround is to switch focusing mode to MF, I don't half-press the shutter release, I AF-L to hone into my focus point quickly (but keep in mind in MF, the AF-L does not work as toggle, it will only AF for the moment you press it), manually focus check, then press the shutter release fully to take the photo.
 
Sounds like using MF is the solution, right? Yes and no.  I can use it, but it depends on the lens.  If it does not have MF focus clutch like the 35mm or 56mm, then fine. But, if you have a manual focus clutch like the 23mm or 16mm etc.. then it doesn't quite work which is actually another thing fuji should try to fix.  Let me explain.
 
I want to focus check, so I have to have the manual focus ring engaged on the lens, right?  otherwise is locked and you can't do that.  When you have the focus ring engaged, you can AF by half-pressing, but you have to exit out of magnified view via the control dial.. again, difficult to keep finger half-pressed and trying to reach and press the rear command dial.. often will lift my finger off the shutter release or inadvertently press and take the photo before I'm ready.
 
So then if I go into MF mode, the AF-L button is disabled so I cannot do a quick AF to the point of focus (like I could in AF mode) and all the focusing has to be done stritctly by manually focusing.. I can do this, but it sure would be nice to keep the option to be able to use AF-L (essentially back button focus) to lock onto subject faster than to manually rack the focus wheel and scan for your focus.

the widest lens you can use with the OVF is 18mm.
 
Anything over that you can still use with the OVF, but it will tell you the field of view is wider than can be shown in the OVF so you will not get any frame lines.
 
There are some videos out there that show what happens when you go wider than 18mm.. I think some yellow arrows point out toward the corners telling you the frame lines (that would be for 16mm, for example) fall outside and beyond the OVF.
 
Again, you could use the OVF with 16mm and focus with it, but you will have no reference as to what exactly is being framed.. your best bet is to use the EVF with the 16mm.. or anything wider than 18mm.
 
And, yes, the 16mm is a rather hefty built lens and it will take up more viewing space in the lower right corner of the OVF.. definitely noticeable and more than the 35mm f2... i'd imagine it would block almost 1/4 of the OVF.. maybe a little less like 1/5th of the OVF... 
 
Consequently on the other end, the X-Pro2 will only provide framelines up to 90mm.. and even then it's so small, you'd probably not going to use it and just use the EVF to frame and get the shot properly.. I've used the 56mm.. it's the next smallest frame, but I feel it's just within usable range and not a problem.

Yeah, I think the only wireless TTL flash system that works with Fuji's are RoboSHOOT by Sere Automation.
 
Admittedly, slightly on the pricier side, but you really have no other options currently to do wireless TTL flash with Fuji's.  They do seem to have limited runs so getting one may take a bit of time if you miss their stock replenishment.
 
However, if not in hurry and want to see what other options. I'm also looking at these other 2 systems in addition to the RoboSHOOT for viable wireless TTL flash.. now, if any of these mentioned here offer HSS in addition, even better... but, I'm holding out high hopes on the latter option.. harder to do.. I'd be happy with wireless TTL flash for now.
 
Fuji is suppose to release a new flash system, the EF-X500, this year (2016).  It may possibly offer wireless TTL capabilities.
Check out some info here from Fujifilm.  They seem to state it offers multiple flash TTL system. Cool!
http://www.fujifilm.com/news/n160115_06.html
 
And, I think Nissin is also working on a new flash system which may also possibly offer wireless TTL flash for Fuji.. think it works with Nissin's own Air System. Check it out here.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1236473-REG/nissin_nd60a_fj_i60a_flash_for_fujifilm.html/?gclid=CjwKEAjwgbG5BRDp3oW3qdPiuCwSJAAQmoSDiHN7-NimO3jRudbdwmAZFYyKezqiqml9ggrOviYKRBoC3iHw_wcB

Forgot one - on lenses with a pull back to MF ring, can doing so override the AF mode switch so it's a one pull to MF mode on the lens, please?

Thought it might be cool for people to add FW requests for the XP2 to a thread? Apologies if there is already a thread but I couldn't find it!
 
OK me first - I love my XP2 to bits, and only have a couple of niggles, but they're quite important to me -
 
1. Can we have a focus patch in the EVF, like the OVF, please? Sometimes I want to focus critically and manually, but still see the full composition (i.e. not zoom in). The XT1 has the dual screen view for this, and I use it a lot. Honestly I didn't know the XP2 wouldn't have this in the EVF too. Doesn't have to be a separate split like the XT1 but maybe just the same patch we get in the bottom RH corner of the OVF, please?
2. Can we have framelines which move (like the focus area) to reflect the parallax correction in the OVF, please? I would use it a lot more if this were available.
 
Apart from those I really love it (yes, even the ISO dial).

Really depends on the shooter.
 
I'd say for an all-rounder that basically cover you very well in any situation, and if you had the X-T1 (or X-T2), just need the 3 zoom: 10-24mm f/4, 16-55mm F/2.8 & 50-140mm f/2.8.. but, i'd revise the ultra-wide zoom to whatever WR version they may have.. perhaps a f/2.8 version in the future?.. Kind of think they need one to get the full WR coverage from lens to the camera body at some point.
 
Again if all-rounder, and if you had an X-Pro2 (or similar rangefinder style camera), I personally prefer to stay with primes. One scenario would be: 18mm f/2 for you wide end, 23mm f1.4 or 23mm f2 (which should be release this year) for wider mid-range and 35mm f/1.4 or 35mm f/2 for longer mid-range. I feel the rangefinder style is best suited to wide to mid tele range of lenses only for the fact you can take advantage of both the optical viewfinder and electronic viewfinder if you're using an X-Pro. The style lends itself better to using primes and keeping within those ranges. BUT, if you enjoy and will pretty much only use the EVF most, if not all, the time, then you can use the same setup as the X-T1 (X-T2) mentioned above just as well.. though, ergonomically, the X-T bodies are better for zooms and larger lenses.
 
Here's a nice article from FujivsFuji which may also help.
http://www.fujivsfuji.com/recommended-kits/

Optically inferior? I wouldn't say so, but then again I don't have the 18-55 to compare and using the X-Pro2, I prefer primes anyways and appreciate the extra stop at f/2.
 
On the newer bodies, especially on the X-Pro2, it's really fast to focus so you shouldn't have any problems there.
 
It's a great all around lens if you're into the 28mm (35mm equivalent) focal length.
 
I was going to sell mine in favor of going even wider like the 14mm f/2.8 or even the 16mm f/1.4, but I decided to keep it after ordering my X-Pro2 and haven't regretted keeping it.
 
I brought 3 primes on a recent trip to Hong Kong.. the widest being the 18mm, and I also brought the 35mm f/2 for mid-range & 56mm f/1.2 just to get that extra reach.  I thought I'd use the 35mm f/2 as my go to lens for the majority of the trip, but I was wrong and ended up using the 18mm for probably at least 80% of the trip. It's just so versatile and in a dense city like Hong Kong with tall buildings and people in close quarters, the 18mm made a lot of sense.  Besides being able to capture more in 1 shot and help provide more context to the image, I found even if I had space to try and shoot further away from my intended subject using the 56mm or even the 35mm, the city was so packed with people all the time, there was always going to be somebody running into my shot a good lot of the time.. so, the 18mm forced me get in closer to my subject and was able to capture more unobstructed image than my other 2 lenses. A great thing about getting closer to subject is you can offset the subject in the composition so it wouldn't even seem like you could be aiming the camera at them, or rather framing them into the image as your intended subject, and take the shot with surprisingly little disturbance to the scene.
 
Sure, you could do this by setting the 18-55mm zoom to 18mm, but I also appreciate the extra stop of light and just that bit of extra shallower depth of field to help isolate the subject and nicely blur out the background (and foreground if you have elements to do so)... plus, the 18mm f2 is just that more smaller and discreet.
 
I love the images I got with the 18mm f2 and it's smaller size and lighter weight was great on the X-Pro2.. and  you can see your aperture settings as opposed to the 18-55mm zoom which is variable so it doesn't have that feature. Some say the edges aren't as sharp wide open, but for street photography, and even some bit of portraiture, I don't think having absolute sharpness from center to the edge is essential.
 
Really depends on the type of photography you plan to do.. the 18-55 is probably a very sensible choice as it covers so much and it does so fairly well.. But, if you prefer primes, the 18mm f/2 is not a bad way to go if you like the 28mm (35mm equivalent) focal length.  Great general purpose lens and for me surprisingly more used and useful than the 35mm or even 23mm fuji lenses, especially if you want to capture more, are in crowded situations, and can or need to get closer to your subject in one of the smallest and lightest lenses.
 
The 14mm f/2.8 is nice, but maybe a bit too wide for most occasions. I may have loved it for landscapes (cityscapes) or when I wanted a more immersive image where people were secondary to the environment. I think the 16mm f1.4 is nice, but considerably more expensive and heavier and bulkier.. but, I do like the results I'm seeing people get from it.. my next choice if money and size/weight is not an option.

Gear buying like camera bags will be an ongoing process.. that is if you cherish your camera and photography as much as I or many of us do.  You never know until you get it and try it for yourself.
 
There's 3 things to consider, and none of them necessarily are related or more important to the other.. Style, Functionality & Cost.
 
There's too much to say and so many options.  I'll tell you personally, I have stuck with Wotancraft.. love their styling and build, pricey, but I personally love them and have had 7 of them. 2 paratroopers, 2 scouts, 2 avengers & 1 commander (those are the various style names, fyi). I prefer form over function, but it has to function well still and not be totally just for style.
 
And, I would say you may not necessarily be stuck to just 1 bag.. you could get by with just 1, but in the end, I think you'll find there's a bag for different occasions.. If you work, or a serious hobbyist, then you will at least have a large bag to carry a good bulk of your gear out to the field or wherever.. But, there will definitely be times you will find having a secondary more compact bag just to carry a camera and lens (or two) would be just enough to get you by more times than not, especially if you like to bring your camera everywhere, you're going to want to leave the big heavy bag for serious work and setup at home and just keep a light compact that carries just what you need for the day.
 
A camera bag, or bags, is purely subjective matter.. you're just going to have to find what you like and works for you.

I suppose you never used an x-pro1 or x100 before?
 
I hope I can explain well and don't confuse you more.. but, here goes...
 
It just gives you 2 points of reference to guesstimate where you think the actual AF focus point will be when using the OVF. It does not apply to using the EVF.
 
2 focus squares/boxes are shown in the OVF when corrected AF frame is on.
 
The center most square represents infinity focus and the off center square, usually a bit more towards the lower right corner, represents closest focusing distance.  Your actual AF focus point can be anywhere inbetween.  When you half press shutter to get an AF lock, a green square/box will appear to confirm the AF focus point.  The closer your subject is, the closer that green confirmation square/box will be to the lower right corner. Conversely, the further away your subject is, the closer the green confirmation box will be towards the center square/box which represents infinity.  As soon as you get the af confirmation, the frame lines will automatically adjust for parallax correction.
 
The best way to picture using corrected AF frame is to think of the 2 boxes floating in 3D space. An invisible line of focus runs between the lens to infinity.. the infinity box in the center and closest focusing box to the bottom right which if you think about parallax error, is actually somewhere in front of the lens.. and you just imagine where your subject is in 3d space between closest and infinity focus points and try to place your aim in that area.
 
With practice, you can do a pretty good job of guessing where that AF point should be floating between the infinity and close focus squares/boxes.
 
Note, the Corrected AF Frame is not represented the same on all lenses.. it will vary depending on the lens and focal length you are using.  Some will have the 2 squares/boxes a lot closer to each other, others will be further apart.
 
Note, using the Corrected AF Frame was the best way to get some reference to AF focus using the OVF in the X-Pro1 & X100 & X100S.  It was not until the X100T that electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode was implemented and you could get that small EVF overlay in the bottom right corner in OVF mode to show you exactly what your sensor is seeing 100% and where the focus point actually is. The X-Pro2 has this now, as well.
 
I find the Corrected AF Frame less useful now since you can have the little EVF overlay in the bottom right corner to show you exactly where the focus point is.. no need to guesstimate anymore.
 
Now, some people find that little EVF distracting and not useful.. I don't personally think so and love it.  No more guess work and you can use that little EVF overlay to fine tune focus manually after AF lock (if you just want to be extra sure).
 
I will add the beauty of the electronic rangefinder mode is that in manual focusing, that small EVF overlay can be used to focus and the frame lines will adjust in real time and hold position accordingly which really makes it feel as close to a real rangefinder (in digital format) as much as possible.  Where as if you used AF, the corrected frame lines in the OVF only show up after you've half pressed the shutter button.  it works great still, but at least you have more options now on how to focus and compose your images.
 
BTW, if it doesn't make sense, take a look at this video by Rediscover Film. Don't worry about the problem with the 35mm OVF.. it's something we both found on the x-pro1.. not going to talk about it as the video goes into it more.. but, the basics on how Corrected AF Frame works will be more apparent with this video and some visuals to explain.. probably better than just words here on this forum.
https://youtu.be/vn2BY1jpHWY
 
Bottom line.. on the new x-pro2, I would say the corrected af frame is not as useful anymore if you plan to use the electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode with the OVF as it is more accurate and show you exactly your focus point. But, if you don't like ERF, then I would suggest you turn on Corrected AF Frame so at least you have an idea where to guesstimate AF focusing using the OVF.
 
Tips with Corrected AF Frame:
1) If your green confirmation square/box is not over the spot you were guesstimating it would be.. you at least know where the af point is now and can adjust your aim to compensate and retry.. you will find if you adjusted correctly, the green confirmation square/box will be exactly over your intended target
 
2) The other way to help visually confirm if you've hit your mark with the AF using the OVF is to check the distance scale at the bottom.  If it's showing you a distance that is where the subject is from you, then it's a good chance you got the af point where you wanted.. otherwise, if you know the subject is close within a certain distance and the distance scale shows out beyond 10 meters, then you should know it probably missed the mark being it's showing focus so far away.
 
** Manual Focusing with OVF does not show Corrected AF Frame, meaning you will only get the 1 box in the center which does not represent your true AF focus point, only your infinity point.. you will still have to guesstimate, but you have 1 less box (the close focus box) to reference where to aim and place your focus over.  If you get good at guesstimating and confirming focus by taking note of distance scale & seeing how the frame lines adjust, it may not be so bad.
 
One more note about using manual focus with OVF, the green confirmation box only shows up when using AF-S mode with the OVF.. So, if you're in manual focusing and use your AF-L button to try to more quickly acquire focus first before manually dialing in your focus, there will not be a green box that shows up to confirm AF point lock.  you will see the frame lines adjust and distance scale update, but that's the only visual clue you will have to confirm focus point.. you'd probably need to zoom with EVF to be 100% certain.  It's stupid.. I don't know why they don't just show the green confirmation box when you've locked focus?..  it's bad enough they took away the 2nd box that shows your close focus reference point.

I suppose you never used an x-pro1 or x100 before?
 
I hope I can explain well and don't confuse you more.. but, here goes...
 
It just gives you 2 points of reference to guesstimate where you think the actual AF focus point will be when using the OVF. It does not apply to using the EVF.
 
2 focus squares/boxes are shown in the OVF when corrected AF frame is on.
 
The center most square represents infinity focus and the off center square, usually a bit more towards the lower right corner, represents closest focusing distance.  Your actual AF focus point can be anywhere inbetween.  When you half press shutter to get an AF lock, a green square/box will appear to confirm the AF focus point.  The closer your subject is, the closer that green confirmation square/box will be to the lower right corner. Conversely, the further away your subject is, the closer the green confirmation box will be towards the center square/box which represents infinity.  As soon as you get the af confirmation, the frame lines will automatically adjust for parallax correction.
 
The best way to picture using corrected AF frame is to think of the 2 boxes floating in 3D space. An invisible line of focus runs between the lens to infinity.. the infinity box in the center and closest focusing box to the bottom right which if you think about parallax error, is actually somewhere in front of the lens.. and you just imagine where your subject is in 3d space between closest and infinity focus points and try to place your aim in that area.
 
With practice, you can do a pretty good job of guessing where that AF point should be floating between the infinity and close focus squares/boxes.
 
Note, the Corrected AF Frame is not represented the same on all lenses.. it will vary depending on the lens and focal length you are using.  Some will have the 2 squares/boxes a lot closer to each other, others will be further apart.
 
Note, using the Corrected AF Frame was the best way to get some reference to AF focus using the OVF in the X-Pro1 & X100 & X100S.  It was not until the X100T that electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode was implemented and you could get that small EVF overlay in the bottom right corner in OVF mode to show you exactly what your sensor is seeing 100% and where the focus point actually is. The X-Pro2 has this now, as well.
 
I find the Corrected AF Frame less useful now since you can have the little EVF overlay in the bottom right corner to show you exactly where the focus point is.. no need to guesstimate anymore.
 
Now, some people find that little EVF distracting and not useful.. I don't personally think so and love it.  No more guess work and you can use that little EVF overlay to fine tune focus manually after AF lock (if you just want to be extra sure).
 
I will add the beauty of the electronic rangefinder mode is that in manual focusing, that small EVF overlay can be used to focus and the frame lines will adjust in real time and hold position accordingly which really makes it feel as close to a real rangefinder (in digital format) as much as possible.  Where as if you used AF, the corrected frame lines in the OVF only show up after you've half pressed the shutter button.  it works great still, but at least you have more options now on how to focus and compose your images.
 
BTW, if it doesn't make sense, take a look at this video by Rediscover Film. Don't worry about the problem with the 35mm OVF.. it's something we both found on the x-pro1.. not going to talk about it as the video goes into it more.. but, the basics on how Corrected AF Frame works will be more apparent with this video and some visuals to explain.. probably better than just words here on this forum.
https://youtu.be/vn2BY1jpHWY
 
Bottom line.. on the new x-pro2, I would say the corrected af frame is not as useful anymore if you plan to use the electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode with the OVF as it is more accurate and show you exactly your focus point. But, if you don't like ERF, then I would suggest you turn on Corrected AF Frame so at least you have an idea where to guesstimate AF focusing using the OVF.
 
Tips with Corrected AF Frame:
1) If your green confirmation square/box is not over the spot you were guesstimating it would be.. you at least know where the af point is now and can adjust your aim to compensate and retry.. you will find if you adjusted correctly, the green confirmation square/box will be exactly over your intended target
 
2) The other way to help visually confirm if you've hit your mark with the AF using the OVF is to check the distance scale at the bottom.  If it's showing you a distance that is where the subject is from you, then it's a good chance you got the af point where you wanted.. otherwise, if you know the subject is close within a certain distance and the distance scale shows out beyond 10 meters, then you should know it probably missed the mark being it's showing focus so far away.
 
** Manual Focusing with OVF does not show Corrected AF Frame, meaning you will only get the 1 box in the center which does not represent your true AF focus point, only your infinity point.. you will still have to guesstimate, but you have 1 less box (the close focus box) to reference where to aim and place your focus over.  If you get good at guesstimating and confirming focus by taking note of distance scale & seeing how the frame lines adjust, it may not be so bad.
 
One more note about using manual focus with OVF, the green confirmation box only shows up when using AF-S mode with the OVF.. So, if you're in manual focusing and use your AF-L button to try to more quickly acquire focus first before manually dialing in your focus, there will not be a green box that shows up to confirm AF point lock.  you will see the frame lines adjust and distance scale update, but that's the only visual clue you will have to confirm focus point.. you'd probably need to zoom with EVF to be 100% certain.  It's stupid.. I don't know why they don't just show the green confirmation box when you've locked focus?..  it's bad enough they took away the 2nd box that shows your close focus reference point.

the widest lens you can use with the OVF is 18mm.
 
Anything over that you can still use with the OVF, but it will tell you the field of view is wider than can be shown in the OVF so you will not get any frame lines.
 
There are some videos out there that show what happens when you go wider than 18mm.. I think some yellow arrows point out toward the corners telling you the frame lines (that would be for 16mm, for example) fall outside and beyond the OVF.
 
Again, you could use the OVF with 16mm and focus with it, but you will have no reference as to what exactly is being framed.. your best bet is to use the EVF with the 16mm.. or anything wider than 18mm.
 
And, yes, the 16mm is a rather hefty built lens and it will take up more viewing space in the lower right corner of the OVF.. definitely noticeable and more than the 35mm f2... i'd imagine it would block almost 1/4 of the OVF.. maybe a little less like 1/5th of the OVF... 
 
Consequently on the other end, the X-Pro2 will only provide framelines up to 90mm.. and even then it's so small, you'd probably not going to use it and just use the EVF to frame and get the shot properly.. I've used the 56mm.. it's the next smallest frame, but I feel it's just within usable range and not a problem.

haha, thanks.  i was just going to write in my findings as well and you are right, you can adjust the auto ISO with comp dial when aperture & shutter are manual.  Compared to the x-pro1, this is a great new feature for the x-pro2... where as the x-pro1 will always try to balance exposure in the middle and a few times in tricky lighting, you really don't want to do that.  On the x-pro2, this ability really smooths operation and exposure control even more on this camera by not having to manually reset the ISO to over or under expose an image (like you would have to on the x-pro1).

I suppose you never used an x-pro1 or x100 before?
 
I hope I can explain well and don't confuse you more.. but, here goes...
 
It just gives you 2 points of reference to guesstimate where you think the actual AF focus point will be when using the OVF. It does not apply to using the EVF.
 
2 focus squares/boxes are shown in the OVF when corrected AF frame is on.
 
The center most square represents infinity focus and the off center square, usually a bit more towards the lower right corner, represents closest focusing distance.  Your actual AF focus point can be anywhere inbetween.  When you half press shutter to get an AF lock, a green square/box will appear to confirm the AF focus point.  The closer your subject is, the closer that green confirmation square/box will be to the lower right corner. Conversely, the further away your subject is, the closer the green confirmation box will be towards the center square/box which represents infinity.  As soon as you get the af confirmation, the frame lines will automatically adjust for parallax correction.
 
The best way to picture using corrected AF frame is to think of the 2 boxes floating in 3D space. An invisible line of focus runs between the lens to infinity.. the infinity box in the center and closest focusing box to the bottom right which if you think about parallax error, is actually somewhere in front of the lens.. and you just imagine where your subject is in 3d space between closest and infinity focus points and try to place your aim in that area.
 
With practice, you can do a pretty good job of guessing where that AF point should be floating between the infinity and close focus squares/boxes.
 
Note, the Corrected AF Frame is not represented the same on all lenses.. it will vary depending on the lens and focal length you are using.  Some will have the 2 squares/boxes a lot closer to each other, others will be further apart.
 
Note, using the Corrected AF Frame was the best way to get some reference to AF focus using the OVF in the X-Pro1 & X100 & X100S.  It was not until the X100T that electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode was implemented and you could get that small EVF overlay in the bottom right corner in OVF mode to show you exactly what your sensor is seeing 100% and where the focus point actually is. The X-Pro2 has this now, as well.
 
I find the Corrected AF Frame less useful now since you can have the little EVF overlay in the bottom right corner to show you exactly where the focus point is.. no need to guesstimate anymore.
 
Now, some people find that little EVF distracting and not useful.. I don't personally think so and love it.  No more guess work and you can use that little EVF overlay to fine tune focus manually after AF lock (if you just want to be extra sure).
 
I will add the beauty of the electronic rangefinder mode is that in manual focusing, that small EVF overlay can be used to focus and the frame lines will adjust in real time and hold position accordingly which really makes it feel as close to a real rangefinder (in digital format) as much as possible.  Where as if you used AF, the corrected frame lines in the OVF only show up after you've half pressed the shutter button.  it works great still, but at least you have more options now on how to focus and compose your images.
 
BTW, if it doesn't make sense, take a look at this video by Rediscover Film. Don't worry about the problem with the 35mm OVF.. it's something we both found on the x-pro1.. not going to talk about it as the video goes into it more.. but, the basics on how Corrected AF Frame works will be more apparent with this video and some visuals to explain.. probably better than just words here on this forum.
https://youtu.be/vn2BY1jpHWY
 
Bottom line.. on the new x-pro2, I would say the corrected af frame is not as useful anymore if you plan to use the electronic rangefinder (ERF) mode with the OVF as it is more accurate and show you exactly your focus point. But, if you don't like ERF, then I would suggest you turn on Corrected AF Frame so at least you have an idea where to guesstimate AF focusing using the OVF.
 
Tips with Corrected AF Frame:
1) If your green confirmation square/box is not over the spot you were guesstimating it would be.. you at least know where the af point is now and can adjust your aim to compensate and retry.. you will find if you adjusted correctly, the green confirmation square/box will be exactly over your intended target
 
2) The other way to help visually confirm if you've hit your mark with the AF using the OVF is to check the distance scale at the bottom.  If it's showing you a distance that is where the subject is from you, then it's a good chance you got the af point where you wanted.. otherwise, if you know the subject is close within a certain distance and the distance scale shows out beyond 10 meters, then you should know it probably missed the mark being it's showing focus so far away.
 
** Manual Focusing with OVF does not show Corrected AF Frame, meaning you will only get the 1 box in the center which does not represent your true AF focus point, only your infinity point.. you will still have to guesstimate, but you have 1 less box (the close focus box) to reference where to aim and place your focus over.  If you get good at guesstimating and confirming focus by taking note of distance scale & seeing how the frame lines adjust, it may not be so bad.
 
One more note about using manual focus with OVF, the green confirmation box only shows up when using AF-S mode with the OVF.. So, if you're in manual focusing and use your AF-L button to try to more quickly acquire focus first before manually dialing in your focus, there will not be a green box that shows up to confirm AF point lock.  you will see the frame lines adjust and distance scale update, but that's the only visual clue you will have to confirm focus point.. you'd probably need to zoom with EVF to be 100% certain.  It's stupid.. I don't know why they don't just show the green confirmation box when you've locked focus?..  it's bad enough they took away the 2nd box that shows your close focus reference point.

I see this comment about the 35mm F2 parallax correction not working correctly with the X-Pro1 in some reviews (I think it was originally from The Phoblographer, I don't see anyone stating specifically what is wrong or how it does not work correctly.

 

I have latest firmware 3.5... I think, like you said, added support for the 35mm f2.. perhaps the reviewer had not had the latest firmware.. though, his posting (in November I believe) was after he latest update which was in late October.

 

Anyways, I don't find a problem using the 35mm f2 on the X-Pro1, which is great.

 

However, I did notice, to my personal surprise, that the AF Parallax Correction (where you have the 2 offset boxes indicating infinite and minimal focus distance) very different than the 35mm F1.4.. There is a lot of distance between the 2 boxes now. I thought I had moved my AF point or this was some misalignment or off calibration, but I guess that's how it works on the new 35mm F2 now.

I have not personally read or noticed anybody who has the X-Pro1 and 35mm f2 combo mention this noticeable change in what's being displayed when using AF-S and AF Parallax Correction.

 

It took a quick moment to get use to, but I think I like this now.. The 2 boxes before with the 35mm f1.4 were very close together and harder to judge where the actual AF point falls between the 2 boxes. This more spread out look gives some space to make a better educated guess where the AF point should approximately be when using the OVF. I only have the oldest lenses such as the 35mm f1.4 and 18mm f2 and they both have similar very closely placed boxes when using OVF with AF Parallax Correction. I have no experience with any of the newer lenses since the initial 3 XF lenses came out other than this latest 35mm f2.. Do any other lenses in the XF lineup (primes primarily interested in) have more space between the 2 boxes while using OVF with AF Parallax Correction like this new 35mm f2 does?

 

I wonder why they can't update the older lenses to have match this newest offering? I think it would help.

 

So, am I asking a question or commenting?.. I guess both.. I guess I just want to be sure what I have and seeing now with the 35mm F2 is correct when using OVF and AF Parallax Correction with AF-S mode. Thanks.