Antony
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Posts posted by Antony
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I found that the 18-55 was not as sharp when using OIS at fast shutter speeds. Good enough reason to turn it off for me.
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Apologies - re. Raw, exactly - that's why it use the tilt adapter.
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Well I was replying to the original poster, not you. That said, I'm surprised you bothered to comment given I was supporting your comment.
As to why you would reject the in-camera approach, well 1) you can shoot in raw 2) you can adjust the amount and location of the tilt 3) there's no other changes made to the file (eg. Higher contrast and saturation) 4) if I wanted Instagram I'd use a phone.
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Just send the camera in for sensor remapping under warranty. I had a similar issue which was promptly resolved by Fuji. Your canon cameras probably had similar issues, but we're remapped before they left the factory.
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Why not just buy a Kipon tilt adapter? They're great! Just search for Kipon tilt FX on eBay.
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Hi All, I recently started using my 10-24mm for a project where there is a lot of shooting in the afternoon with full sun in the frame. In the course of this I discovered that my copy of the 10-24mm exhibits truly terrible flare when shot at smaller apertures. This image was shot at f/11, 10mm. The flare is much less apparent when shooting at wider apertures, where it becomes just a general veil of reduced contrast rather than these specific spots, and so you don't see it in the viewfinder until pressing the shutter release.
I've checked all the usual culprits eg. no filter, clean lens glass etc, but still it remains. I figure the spots may be internal dust (albeit I cant see it) but the magenta and green stripes are something else altogether. Can anyone else duplicate this result?
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I got a Fotga (I think) set of 11 and 16 mm extenders off eBay - great for ring shots and with no glass why pay a premium?
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I got a Fotga (I think) set of 11 and 16 mm extenders off eBay - great for ring shots and with no glass why pay a premium?
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If you are using it professionally contact them first an chat with the service staff. I had the f/0 problem which required replacement of the main PCB - camera was turned around same day and I had it back 3 days after sending it (despite living in a regional area).
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I got married last year. If the photographer we hired showed up with Fuji stuff I would have sent them packing.
Well as an experienced wedding photographer I would have said, "thanks for the day off, and for paying me to not work!". Seriously, your comment shows that you obviously don't understand how to get good results from your gear. The X-T1 is just as capable as a DSLR when used properly. So much so that I sold my 1Dx a month after getting my first X-T1. Since then the camera has only got better. Here's a recent Fuji wedding: http://chasingsummerphoto.com/general/kirsty-and-tims-wedding-echidna-gully-armidale-wedding-photography-nsw/
- Marc G., StephenClint and CRAusmus
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Yeah dear, I am a Port Macquarie Photographer and have captured so many weddings with my Fuji gear. It is just amazing. Now I have been thinking to use a new Fuji gear. Do you have any recommendations which one to buy?
This post appears to be from an SEO Service. Jeremy uses Nikon gear.
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I just purchased two inexpensive Chinese ones I found on eBay, they are astounding value for money - very well machined with a detachable L plate.
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Why no enthusiast Instax wide camera? Why no Instax wide version of the SP-1? Geez Fuji surely you can see the money is in everyone's wallets waiting to jump into yours!
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Why did you do so huge count of photos? Looks like 40 should be more than enough.
I was shooting in CL in order to ensure overlap of the images, as I was shooting handheld without a panorama head. By shooting so many I ensured full coverage.
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That's right - I also have one on the 18-55mm that I've cut down to fit. I think the petal shaped hoods look ridiculous on the primes.
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I shot it at f/2.8 at 140mm, I think the results would be better with the 56mm at f/1.2, but I was concerned about distortion due the fact that I would be shooting at a bigger angle when getting the feet etc. No pano head, just handheld using CL to get plenty of overlap.
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The buffer and the quality of the jpegs are the main reason it's easy, as due to the number of images you need to shoot JPEG to reduce processing time. As to the reason, it's not for increased resolution, but to create a depth of field that's normally only available with larger formats. It would be impossible to achieve this level of background blur, and this angle of view (eg. An apparent wide angle) through normal means.
Do a search on the Brenizer method for more info.
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I wouldn't ever want to shoot jpg only. It's RAW only 95% of the time. But I'm one of the rare breed of people who can't understand the fuss about Fuji jpgs. Probably because I never shot and will never shoot jpgs... I'm just used to the RAW conversion.
Hi Marc, the advantage of shooting RAW + Large JPEG is that you get a MUCH larger preview image to check for focus accuracy.
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Just so folks can get an idea, here's two of the images used to create the Brenizer pano. As you can see there is an enormous amount of overlap, basically you just set the camera to CL and start moving it around in an organised pattern to ensure you get the entire area you want in the finished image.
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The couple only needed to stand still for about 5 seconds, and every shot individually was at 1/640 sec IIRC so there's no motion blur. The most that may happen if they move are some stitching anomolies/ghosts, but there are so many overlapping images doing it this way it seemed to work it all out. Like I said, it was my first try, but I'm delighted with how simple it was.
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Hi all, today I had my first crack at a Brenizer Method portrait using the X-T1 and 50-140mm f/2.8. Process was to set my aperture, shutter speed, ISO to manual, set WB (not Auto WB) and ensure my shutter speed was fast. Set Manual focus on the subject then shoot away. Images were shot in Jpeg only, small size. I set the camera to CL and shot a total of 161 images, starting with the subject and then increasing the circle around them until I had captured a large area. Naturally there was a lot of overlap, but the camera buffer did well and there was no break in the shooting.
I then loaded the images into a free program called Autostitch, waited about 10 minutes while it digested everything and then cropped the image to a square. Final image size was over 10000 pixels in each axis. Here's the final result, sure it's not the most exciting of images, but as a first test I am pleased with the result and given the ease of shooting and processing it I expect to do a lot more over time, particularly for my weddings.
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Here you go Trenton: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/38mm-Aluminum-Screw-Knob-Mini-Quick-Release-Clamp-Compatible-with-Arca-Swiss-NEW-/171620369929?hash=item27f55f0609
Best of all it costs next to nothing!
Longer than 30s ?
in Fuji X-T1 / Fuji X-T10
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Not sure of any pro DSLRs that offer timed exposures longer than 30 secs. Investment of a few dollars for a cable release seems a minor inconvenience.