Astigmatism

Jeez, I have one of these Purger lenses on order due to deliver today. Now I'm afraid to try it! I take it things felt tight long before you would have got it all the way seated, since you never went past half way there.

I got a bit more clear, through experiments and the manuals. If there's OIS with the lens hardware switch ON, or IBIS, or both, the menu just controls whether stabilization is CONTINUOUS or SHOOTING ONLY, and also maybe has a shutter speed limiting option for automatic exposures. For a body with IBIS plus a lens without OIS, the menu additionally has an OFF. If there's an OIS lens with its switch off, on any body, the menu is grayed out. Looking through both manuals, I see no mention of this dependence system. They read read as though all menu items are always available. However, there not; it's designed so that there's no way you can set controls to malfunction. The X-T4 has IBIS. My X-T4 manual doesn't make this clear, but: With one exception, there's just a single thing the "IS MODE" menu item controls: does the image stabilization run the whole time the camera is turned on (CONTINUOUS), or does it only run while the shutter button is at least halfway down (SHOOTING ONLY)? Nothing about OIS or IBIS specifically. The one exception is that when shooting with a non-OIS lens, which has no OIS switch, an OFF option appears for turning off IBIS. The X-T30 II has no IBIS. My X-T30 II manual is similar to the X-T4 but with an added complication: there are "+ MOTION" options that shorten shutter speed when motion is detected in some auto exposure modes (I'm unfamiliar with them). The manual shows an OFF option and I don't know why, unless there are OIS lenses without switches. Anybody know why? With my several lenses on this camera, either no OIS or OIS with a switch, I played around some and never got an available OFF option. The menu depends on whether there's an OIS lens and how its switch is set, and also whether the whole camera is set to AUTO. ----- Another useful item I found online --------- From FujiFilm Tags at exiftool.org: Tag: ID0x1422 Tag Name: ImageStabilization Type: int16u[3] [Value 0] 0 = None 1 = Optical 2 = Sensor-shift 3 = OIS Lens 258 = IBIS/OIS + DIS 512 = Digital [Value 1] 0 = Off 1 = On (mode 1, continuous) 2 = On (mode 2, shooting only)

Wow. Well, asked, and answered! Thank you for an excellent and thoughtful reply! Once upon a time, I used cameras on telescopes. I spent a summer shooting star fields through a triplet refractor whose 8" objective was actually made by Cooke, with a 5" refractor guide scope whose objective was made by Alvan Clark. But that was 43 years ago. I think things have changed!

I have "Cam Remote" installed on my iPhone, and "X Acquire" on my Mac. "Cam Remote" lets me activate the shutter and view the viewfinder remotely. "X Acquire" lets me save and restore camera settings. Both of these are useful (though I think shutter activation with a wired remote button is much simpler). In addition, both can transfer images out of the camera. However, they both transfer 11 MB versions of jpg, rather than the 26 MB versions the card transfers. This doesn't seem useful. I haven't found a setting to change this. I haven't tried them with RAW images. So, it seems to me "X Acquire" is useful just for saving and restoring camera settings, and "Cam Remote" isn't useful. Am I not getting something? I mean, people clearly went to a lot of trouble to create these!

I have the X-T30 II and recently added an X-T4. I especially like the controls on the X-T4 with more dials for less menu hunting. I also like the physically larger body. If it's articulating screens you want, it definitely has it, and I find it convenient and versatile. No experience with the XH2.

It's been a while since you posted, but I just wanted to complement your set of FD lenses. I had the 17 instead of the 20, and the 50 macro instead of the 100, and didn't have the 100-200. But otherwise I had the exact same set. That's a very nice combination indeed.

If you are still trying to make this choice, I have no experience with either, but wanted to make sure you were aware that Fuji XC lenses are lower cost, lower quality lenses with plastic bodies. Fair enough. It's great that Fuji makes some lenses available at lower price points, as long as you're aware that's what you're buying.

You could try quickly switching the battery. I think this usage would require a lot of power, and if it's the battery's fault, at least you wouldn't have to keep the camera off for a whole minute. But I don't know. I guess something inside could be heating up.

I have the 18-135 and like it just fine. Wow, this thing does a lot. If I could only have one lens, this would be it (but I have about 8 and am very fond of primes). The thing is, if you would appreciate only carrying one object, not changing lenses, not needing something to keep the other lens safe in, and always being ready to cover this wide range when the moment calls for it, the single zoom wins. The nicest camera in the world is the one that you have available and prepared the moment you need it.

Image Stabilization: How IBIS and OIS Interact I've found it difficult to get clarity on how IBIS and OIS work relative to each other in the Fuji X system, so I spent a while studying it and think I have an understanding now. Here is what I think is going on: Some camera bodies have In Body Image Stabilization (IBIS) and some don't. Some lenses have Optical Image Stabilization (OIS) and some don't. All combinations of these are compatible. At any given moment, you either have image stabilization, or you don't. If you're using a body with IBIS and a lens with OIS, you can't select just one or the other. Lenses that have OIS require a switch to turn it on and off, because they have to be compatible with all bodies even if some bodies have no provision for turning stabilization on or off in their controls. In some cases the switch on the lens is the only way to turn stabilization on or off. Bodies that have IBIS require a switch (such as a menu item) to turn it on and off, because they have to be compatible with all lenses even if some lenses have no switch. Therefore, there have to be two places where you can turn stabilization on and off, in combinations of an OIS lens on an IBIS body. Since you could set the two switches to contradict one another, which prevails? The switch on the lens wins (and grays out the menu item in the body, at least in my X-T4). From the X-T4 manual p146, "The Shooting Menus" > "IS MODE", "The setting selected with the lens image stabilization switch, if any, takes priority over the setting chosen with the IS mode." This is definitive about how the controls work, at least for this camera body, though opaque regarding what's going on inside. When you use an OIS lens on an IBIS body and have stabilization turned on, how do the OIS and IBIS subsystems interact? We users don't actually have to know, all we have to know is that stabilization is either on or off at any given moment. But, still, it's interesting, isn't it? Mechanically, OIS and IBIS have some different advantages. For longer and longer lenses, the image jumps around much more with the same amount of camera shake, which would require more and more physical movement range for the IBIS to accommodate it, and any given IBIS mechanism would have some lens length limit to what it could manage, which is not good for compatibility (especially considering future lenses not even designed yet). If you want to keep the body small and light, you don't want a huge IBIS mechanism. This all amounts to a big incentive to build OIS into longer lenses. Besides, they tend to be big and heavy and cost a lot, so there's more design opportunity to manage shake there without driving up camera body prices and sizes and weights. But for all lenses, IBIS provides more degrees of freedom to compensate for more types of shaking motion. I think OIS has two degrees of freedom and IBIS has five (not 100% certain on these numbers). There are certainly some motions for which IBIS could be better. A good guess is that Fuji takes advantage of both IBIS and OIS when both are available. Certainly some other manufacturers do, and it only takes software to do so. There are clues online. I have an X-T4 and an X-T30 II, and I could do an experiment to see whether OIS lenses yield better image stabilization on the X-T4 than they do on the X-T30 II, maybe I will. Fuji wouldn't have to announce to the world exactly what they're doing inside with OIS and IBIS. Last point: you can choose to have stabilization constantly or only when you shoot (which seems to include when you have the shutter button half pressed). It's your battery, use it when you want to. This doesn't change the fact that at any given moment, you either have image stabilization, or you don't. So, that's what I think. Now for some miscellaneous quotes online that provide hints (I didn't write these, I found them): ******************************************** ******************************************** ******************************************** OIS and IBIS work together OIS does as much as it can and IBIS adds a bit. [this was about the X-H1] I can't find the link, but it's been reported since the announcement of the XH-1 that the IBIS and OIS work differently for different lenses. Obviously it's IBIS only for primes (and the 16-55) without OIS. For the shorter zooms with OIS, if I recall correctly, certain axis rely on IBIS and others the OIS. And for the longer zooms and the 80mm macro, the system defaults entirely to the OIS in the lens. That may be correct, but we will have to wait for a manual with confirmation to be sure. There is a certain logic in that advice. Canon & Nikon have long argued that OIS works better than IBIS for long lenses because the corrections are larger for longer lenses and the OIS can be tailored to the precise requirements of their FL and design. The usual counter argument is that they would say that anyway because they didn't invest in IBIS. The reported default to OIS for the longer lenses also raises a question as to whether there is a maximum FL for which the Fuji IBIS is effective. IBIS is synchronized with the OIS in OIS lenses and they both are used in conjunction. Some modern camera systems now allow combining OIS lenses with camera bodies that have IBIS, and the combined stabilization effect is increased beyond what just one or the other would be capable of. If you have an OIS + IBIS capable system then you have the best of both worlds and you don’t need to worry about which one is better. If your lens has a OIS button, that will switch off both OIS and IBIS. All OIS/IBIS switches act on both for that matter: you can't have OIS without IBIS, or IBIS without OIS. I've had a reply from Fujifilm UK on this now, and it confirms the last post. They state "The OIS switch on any lens 'overrides' the IBIS setting in the camera. If the camera is set to continuous and then the OIS switch on the lens is set to 'off', the IBIS switches off as well." Like on many other cameras, IBIS and OIS seem to be coupled: they are either both on or off. For 18-55, Fuji lists 4 stops of stabilization on cameras without IBIS and 6.5 stops when using it on X-T4. Fujirumors has published a slide (2/26) listing the measured number of stabilization stops for each lens when used with X-T4 (and X-H1). 18-55 is listed to have 6.5 stops of stabilization when used with T4's IBIS vs 4 stops when using OIS alone. As expected, IBIS seems to help. [Note the significance of these last two quotes; the 18-55 zoom has OIS, and it gives 4 stops by itself but IBIS contributes a further 2.5 stops. However this doesn't necessarily mean the OIS is still operating. If we compared this OIS zoom with a non-OIS lens on this body with IBIS on, and saw less than 6.5 stops of stabilization, I think that'd prove it, for the X-T4 anyway.] IBIS and OIS work together for Fujifilm lenses - you can't use IBIS without OIS (for an OIS lens). I asked Fuji service Europe about IBIS/OIS: Has OIS priority with longer lenses because it is more effective for longer focal lengths while IBIS has priority with shorter focal lengths? They answered: >> in practise you don't have the option to choose between OIS and IBIS. That means that both options work always together. The fact is when you use lenses with longer focal length the OIS has priority as of the reason you mentioned. This means the stabilisation measured in EV steps will not be so effective as the use of lenses with wider focal length.<< With non-stabilised lenses you have the option to turn IBIS off from the same menu, but when you use a lens with OIS built-in, the option to turn off IBIS disappears. In this instance, image stabilisation is controlled from the OIS switch on the lens. Can you use both in-lens stabilization and IBIS? In short, yes. While it is dependent on the camera system you’re using (for example, Panasonic has a list of compatible lenses), but you should be able to use them together. With Sony systems, activating both systems will delegate 3-axis stabilization to the IBIS, and leave the pitch/yaw adjustments for the Optical Steady Shot (O.S.S) in-lens stabilization. Fuji systems, at least the Fujifilm X-H1, work in a similar fashion; delegating specific axis’ to different systems to achieve the standard 5-axis stabilization.

Looks like a great time! Were any of these at the 8 mm setting? I'm already eagerly watching for the promised 8 mm prime to appear, though they said 2023.

If I want to send the camera display output to an HDMI monitor, for example for composing shots on a larger screen, are there any particular requirements for that monitor? Aspect ratio, pixel count, physical size, version, anything like that? If it matters, I'm thinking of an X-T4 and also an X-T30 ii. I understand this is supposed to duplicate the camera display on the external monitor, whether shooting, playback, in menu system, whatever -- have I got that right? Thanks!

Why is there a "PREVIEW DEPTH OF FIELD" function? I am ALWAYS seeing the effect of the DoF. As I turn the aperture ring I see more or less blur on things not at the focused distance. In fact, if I turn the camera round, I also see the blades of the aperture stop move in and out as I turn the ring. What does the function change? Seems like nothing, as far as I have been able to notice. If it matters, this is on an X-T4 with a Fuji 35 f/1.4 lens. Thanks!

I bought it! It feels bigger and works much better in my hands. I REALLY like the dials on top. An unanticipated change: the Q button on the X-T30 is too easy to activate accidentally where it is on top of the best place for my right thumb. It's in a much better spot on the X-T4. I haven't found anything that I prefer about the X-T30 so far, I prefer the X-T4; except one occasional thing -- if I want something compact the X-T30 is smaller. However, I usually want something larger. So, being able to go back and forth is nice, and if I had to choose just one I'd choose the X-T4. It would have been nice if they stuck with one battery choice, but I bit the bullet and therefore have two kinds of battery chargers and a couple extra of two kinds of battery. It's a minor thing. As to IBIS, well, I only just got the camera and haven't done any comparison on this yet. Thanks for the help!

Here's what I know is important, if I understand the two cameras correctly (and my uncertainties): Bigger body (right? does it FEEL bigger?) ISO dial on top (and yes I use large indicators mode sometimes) Maybe IBIS (is it a noticeable improvement on my OIS lenses?) And I don't know what else. For example I didn't know there were cameras with both mechanical and electronic shutter options until I got the X-T30, and now I like that. There may be other things I don't know about that are X-T4 advantages. That's something I'm trying to discover. So, what differences have you noticed between the two, or between the other similar branches of the product number tree? Jerry, that's pretty neat, about accessing in-between shutter speeds! Great example of something I didn't know about that I'd appreciate.

I have the X-T30 ii and absolutely love the dials for shutter speed and aperture (R lenses). That's what got me started on Fuji. I don't like a lot of automation and rarely use any auto exposure modes. I'm toying with the idea of getting an X-T4. What would be the biggest differences? Having an ISO knob on top would be a big plus, in my book. I configured both front and rear dials on the X-T30 for ISO but find it's fiddly trying to see that respond through the viewfinder. The X-T4 looks physically larger, is that right? I'd find that much easier to handle with clumsy hands. The IBIS would be helpful sometimes I assume. I'm guessing image quality would be the same (except where IBIS made a difference), right? What else would feel different about it? Or -- is it much smarter to wait for an X-T5? Rumors suggest that's a good half a year away....

How do the two different kinds of image stabilization work if you use a body with IBIS and a lens with OIS? Does one of them simply switch off? Or do the two cooperate in some way that works even better? I have several lenses with OIS that are amazing. I use them on an X-T30 ii. But I'm toying with the idea of getting an X-T4. Thanks!

Also, as I look on Amazon for tripods with Arca type mount, it appears that the tripods typically assume the Arca rail will be parallel to the optical axis, whereas the grip I bought puts the rail perpendicular to the axis. I think with most of the tripods I just saw, when I'm holding the control lever, the camera will be looking right or left, not forward. Am I misunderstanding? Thanks!!

Yes, thank you, the more I look at the problem the more I think this is the best way to go. I bought the "Fujifilm MHG-XT10 Metal Hand Grip" and it fits perfectly and solves various little issues. So I think my next step is to buy a tripod head or an entire tripod with integral head. I like the pan type as opposed to the ball type, and wouldn't rule out a gimbal or geared head if they're not too costly. But again I read that there are some designs of the Arca type that are incompatible with some plates. So my question is: Are there any major brands of Arca style head or tripod that are INCOMPATIBLE with the "Fujifilm MHG-XT10 Metal Hand Grip" that you can warn me about??? Big big thanks!!

Great thought provoking thread! My vote: If you like primes: You kind of have to get a macro, so, the 80 mm f/2. You want a fast middle length lens, so, the 35 f/1.4. You need wide, and the wider the better (you can always crop), so, the 14 f/2.8 And something long. I guess the 200 mm f/2, but it sure is expensive. I prefer primes and have all the lenses above, but not the 200, as it would break my bank. If, like me, you don't mind a zoom, you could substitute the 100-400 mm f/4.5-5.6 for the 200. It is expensive but several times less so than the 200. That's what I did. I don't think long zooms suffer as much pincushion/barrel as the wide zooms do, though I'm not sure and haven't tested this. If you want two zooms, substitute the 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 for the 35. I have this zoom and I really like it as a do-anything lens. Though, it's pretty hefty. If you are happy with adding close up lenses instead of having a macro, you could drop the macro and add the 50 mm f/1.0, which is just fast fast fast. It can really narrow the depth of field, much more so than any of the above. I have this lens and it's amazing. But it's heavy and costly! And it's big in diameter close to the camera, which means my camera only fits on my tripod pointed in one direction (which happens to cooperate well with the knob levers on the tripod).

My XT-30 won't sit on my old Bogen Manfrotto tripod with some lenses. I just got a very fun Lensbaby Obscura and the head is quite a few millimeters too wide for the camera to sit on it without the lens prying it up, no matter which way I point it. My 50 mm f/1.0 will fit but only in some orientations. I never notice tripod head dimensions in ads. And I don't especially want to commit to some proprietary mount system (even if it does fit, which I sometimes hear they won't do). How to shop for tripods with small head dimensions? Note, the threads in all cases I'm thinking of are 1/4-20, it's the dimensions of the flat mounting surfaces that are the issue. Thanks!!

Hey, great answer! It took a little more force than I expected but seeing your photos and reading your description gave me the confidence to go ahead with it. I really appreciate you taking the trouble jerryy!

There's a "cable channel cover for DC coupler" along one short edge of the battery chamber cover. It's item 36 in the Parts of the Camera illustration on page 3 of the manual. I bought a CP-W126 DC coupler, which has an end that looks like the battery and slides into its place. But how do you remove the cable channel cover? It is obviously a separate part. It's a lighter color than the battery chamber cover, and it's not quite as hard. I studied it under a magnifier and it seems to have little tabs and ledges that would prevent moving it in any direction. Do you force it? In which direction? Thanks!

Here's the final result. It took Focus Stacker an hour and a half.

No photo to post yet, it's processing! I bought Focus Stacker for my iMac and have only dabbled. This morning is my time for trying new stuff. I'm shooting with the 80 f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro on an X-T30 II, shooting at f/4, using focus bracketing in manual mode. Dang -- I normally set shutter speed manually, had the exposure meter centered on its scale, and then discovered the shutter speed knob was accidentally set between the A and the 4000, EXIF reports 1/105 s. My subject is a found coil spring 35 mm in diameter and 50 mm long, which was buried in the yard and is very heavily rusted with rich rusty shades and texture. Its closest point is 60 mm from the front of the lens hood. I find 227 steps at the most coarse step size setting of 10 covers the entire spring. Scrolling through the photos gives this nice effect of the sharp areas traveling through the spring. But that is a lot of photos, 5.3 GB! What does the step size number actually mean? Is it scaled to the lens focal length, aperture, and focus distance? When I look around online I see a lot of focus stacking done with maybe 5 or 10 or 20 images, not hundreds. Do you use focus bracketing and image stacking? How many images do you usually use?