RadBadTad

I just tried it. Found the raw file on the card in-camera, and exported it "as is" and it came out exactly like the jpeg I just posted directly above this comment. When I do it a second time adding 2 stops push before conversion, it comes out more or less "correct" looking.

Here's the SOOC jpeg for the image on the right in the OP post (Merely resized to post). Not exposed just fine. Dramatically under exposed, in camera, including the JPEG.

All that DR-AUTO does is allow the camera to change from 100 to 200 to 400. My camera has been on auto for 7000 photos so far, and has only caused this issue on 5 total photos, across all lighting ranges and conditions, so it seems logical to me that any time I see those lighting conditions, I should see the same under exposure, which is not the case. Even the very next photo in the series taken less than a second later without changing any settings at all looks normal and exposed correctly. I'm trying to replicate the problem. You also said: "so shots taken with DR200% need to be manually pushed by 1 EV." Which I have just tested, and found to be completely false, as shots taken at DR200% look identical to shots taken at DR100% If you have some method for forcing the issue (which should be the case, if you have knowledge of the issue as strongly as you seem to believe) please share it so that I can replicate it.

When manually setting DR to 400% and 200%, the results match the 100% DR image in lightroom CC. I can not seem to replicate the issue. If someone else can think of a testing method, I'd happily try things to see if we can't narrow it down.

I forced the camera into 400% mode and took a photo, and then 200% mode, and then 100% mode. All three photos look identical in Lightroom CC Granted, these photos were taken in my office, and not out in bright light where the other two from the OP are taken, but it doesn't seem that the DR settings are affecting anything where I'm at right now.

I have no confirmation as to what is the cause at all. It may be the Auto DR issue. I will try to do some testing today to find out.

Too late to add a bug? Random dramatic under exposure of shots in Multi metering mode, in aperture priority Link to the thread I made about it: http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2559-dramatic-under-exposure-randomly-with-xpro2/?do=findComment&comment=23724

Yeah it hasn't ruined any keepers yet, and the great dynamic range of the sensor means I can push up the exposure as needed without much degradation, but it still leaves me a bit nervous for when a shot DOES matter. I'm using Lightroom CC right now, so the well documented list of issues with Lightroom and RAF files would suggest that may be the issue. Anyone know how to put in a bug fix request ticket? I've been looking for a quick way to send messages or questions to Fuji for a little while and can't come up with anything.

I've found that sometimes, my shots from my XPro2 will randomly come out dramatically under exposed (like 2.5 stops under) for reasons I can't figure out. Two sample images attached. Both in "Multi" metering mode (The issue photos have all been in Multi mode, but I have only shot in multi mode, so I don't know whether it does it in other metering modes) The first, with the pillar was Aperture Priority, +/- 0 EV Comp The second is also Aperture Priority, with -2/3 EV comp In both instances, the next few photos (in the same lighting conditions) come out just fine, without adjusting any settings at all. Anyone else having this issue?

I'm an idiot, and was for some reason pressing the menu/okay button rather than pressing in the command dial. Probably because the manual is so ambiguous with the way it says "command dial" </sarcasm> Anyways, thanks for the reply at least.

I see that there's a really annoying method of formatting the cards, which is to go into the menu, go into camera settings, go into user settings, then select format, and format the cards one at a time. The manual mentions a shortcut: The format menu can also be displayed by pressing the center of the rear command dial while pressing and holding the button. I can't seem to get the shortcut to work for me, and of course we can't move Format to the My Menu, which was one of the things I was most excited about with that feature. Is that shortcut working for everyone else and not me? There's so much customization possible with these cameras that it's entirely possible that I altered a setting that messed with it?

Think of it more like you have a dead android phone, and you're trying to get it to turn on by charging it slowly from an external battery pack with 15% charge, and it's going really slowly, and when you try to turn the phone on without giving it enough time to collect enough power to get running, it starts up and then dies a few seconds later. But many people are saying it's happening to them regardless of how long a full battery is sitting in the camera, so it doesn't seem like this is even a factor.

I got mine at around noon today. I put a fully charged battery in it (from my X-T1) along with my memory card, and just let it sit there for an hour. Then turned it on and set the date and time, and went back to work. Around 3pm I started messing with it, setting up custom functions and messing with Fn buttons and such. No issues so far, with multiple power ups and turn offs. No idea what would be causing it for some but not others. Sucks for you guys struggling with it. Not being able to customize a Fuji camera is like running a race with one leg!

Was yours in a way that suggested that it might not merely be the auxiliary battery inside? How long did you have a charged battery in before it happened? Did you turn it on and start playing with it right away or did it have some time to rest and draw charge from the battery?

I have one friend who has received his XPro2 already, and he's having the same problem. I should get mine today, so we'll see. I've seen reports that it's due to the internal auxiliary battery that powers the settings and clock, and that this battery ships dead, and uses the first battery to charge it up, and if you draw on it too hard too quickly, it fails. Fuji says to just leave a full battery in it for a little while to charge up that battery inside. I've seen lots of stories about people saying that they have a full battery in the camera and aren't really using it for much when they experience the problem though, so who knows whether that's just a guess on Fuji's part. Strange that so many people seem to having the issue, but we didn't hear about it during any of the reviews or tests. Here's hoping it's an easy fix.

Last year I had an issue with my X-T1 and battery grip. I had put the grip in my bag without the contact-cap and a couple of the pins bent. I didn't realize, used it with the camera, and caused some errors. I then tried bending the pins back myself, and broke off two of them. I mailed both the body and the grip to Fuji on a Tuesday. They received the box Wednesday morning. They called me Wednesday around noon to talk about it. The person I spoke to was friendly, completely professional, very very kind, and told me that they were re-setting the firmware on the body, and would fix the contacts on the grip. They told me it would ship back out to me on Monday of the following week (four business days) without charge. I told him okay. We hung up. He called me back about 10 minutes later and asked if I thought I needed the camera in that time. I told him I had a couple of shoots scheduled for the weekend, and that I was looking at renting a camera to cover them. He told me he understood, and that since I had shoots to do, he would in stead, just mail me a brand new grip along with my body (which was already re-loaded). I got it in the mail the next day (Thursday) all free of charge. I live in the USA. I am also a CPS member, and in November, sent a 5Dmk2 with battery grip in to Canon. The grip had failed (as a lot of them do) and was stuck half-way on the camera and wouldn't tighten or loosen. Some googling informed me that it was a very common problem with their grips, because they use plastic gears in their linkages that frequently strip. I overnighted the package to them. They called me about it six days after they received it. They charged me $95 to remove and fix the grip. They tried to charge me $150 to wipe off the outside of the 5Dmk2, and "verify the shutter count" (which I declined). I said okay. I got a shipping back notification another seven days later, and received the camera four business days after that. I have since sold my Canon gear (Not ENTIRELY because of that, but it was definitely a factor) and shoot nothing but my X-T1 (Until my pre-ordered XPro2 arrives) It's possible that you get "pro service" with "pro cameras" but I prefer to think that the tech was simply having a bad day that day? Either way, I'm overall very pleased with Fuji service.

Attached are two screen shots of the same X-T1 RAF file at 100% magnification. One is the file open in the most up-to-date version of the Fuji raw processor "Powered by SILKYPIX" (downloaded from the Fuji support site), the other is the file in Photo Ninja. With my RAF files, I have now tried Lightroom 5, Lightroom 6.1, Iridient, Capture One, Photo Ninja, and SilkyPix. Lightroom 5 is by far the worst, in terms of fine detail. Lightroom 6.1, Capture One, Iridient, and SilkyPix seem to be right on the same level to me, and the dramatic stand-out for me is Photo Ninja (in terms of fine detail, and film-like highlight recovery) With P.N. the colors are harder to work with, and don't look as pleasing as easily as they do with something more robust like Lightroom or Capture One. For colors and skin tones, I still find Lightroom and Capture One to be the best. This COULD be because I'm very used to using Lightroom, and have only used PN sporadically because I only use it when I really want super fine detail from my images.

Yeah, I tried swapping all of them out (I have three) for different positions and it doesn't have any effect. And as I said, removing and reattaching the grip, while using the same battery, resets it and lets it work just fine. For a while.

My X-T1 is being strange. With my battery grip attached, SOMETIMES, it won't turn on, or wake from sleep. I can't figure out a pattern to it. Removing the battery from the grip will allow the camera to wake and be used, but putting a battery back in kills it again. To reset the issue, I have to remove the grip, cycle the camera on and off, then re-attach the grip with a battery in it, and then turn it on. It works for a while, as normal, turning on and off as expected. Then, a while later (again, no pattern that I can discern) it won't turn on or wake, and I have to do remove the grip again. All batteries are fully charged. I haven't changed the settings anywhere that I can think of or find, and every part of the battery grip seems to be in working condition. I assume I'll have to get with Fuji about it, but I wondered if anyone had any similar experiences.

There isn't any motion blur because each photo in the stitch is taken at a fast shutter speed. There's no time for a blur. Then, when the program is stitching everything together, it doesn't matter much if there have been slight movements between frames, because so long as things are "pretty close" the program will line things up. So if a finger, or hand, or strand of hair have moved from shot A to shot B, only one or the other will be included, so the motion won't have ruined anything.

Yes, it's a known issue. There are a couple of possible causes, but the most common is that the noise reduction in the raw file smears the fine detail (and can't be turned off in camera or in lightroom). I also have a personal theory regarding lens profiles (since it happens a lot on certain lenses for me, but not at all on others) but it's just a hunch I've never seen repeated anywhere, so don't take it seriously. If you're using lightroom, you can take the raw file and remove all noise reduction, which should help a bit, but if it's really bothering you, you may want to get a trial of PhotoNinja and see if removing the noise in that program fixes the issue. (It did for me) But yes, it's a known issue, not anything wrong with your equipment, and it's all processing based, so there is a lot of hope in the community that it will be addressed in the future.

Eh? Any news? We're about 30 minutes over the mark, and I'm itching!

A great explanation of the features, but I'm not super impressed by the "tests" he's doing. All of the motion he does with the camera trained on his completely stationary well lit subjects is side to side, with an extremely wide lens, meaning that the camera really doesn't have to do much to keep it in focus at all. I would love to see this done with the 35mm, or the 56mm, with kids running around in the evening, or at a wedding, or a concert. I've never felt the need to do continuous tracking on a still-life. Also, I've read a few comments that suggest that once you take the photo in the tracking process, you have to re-acquire focus once you're done with your burst? can anyone confirm or deny this, or mention a work-around? Can the back AF button be used to keep tracking going while the shutter button controls just the shutter, to keep the focus going between bursts of photos?

I agree with this. For people who like to play with their cameras, a whole new firmware layout sounds like a blast, and a treat, but if you use your camera on the job, you will be very angry to find that the camera you could operate like the back of your hand is now a complete stranger because the company wanted to give you two extra features and included a completely different paint job in the process.

It's surprisingly fantastic, even wide open. The 5Dmk2 does better since it has 21 megapixels, but I haven't been disappointed by the Voight on the X-T1 yet. Here are a couple of scenes shot with the Voightlander. The color one is a whole scene, and the black and white is a 100% crop.