typeronin

There's definite improvement here. I shot mostly in downtown Vancouver at night but I did find focus snappier than on my X-T1. I usually used the EVF and having it in ISO12,800 looks like night-vision most of the time. 
 
 
I could not get it to take only one picture with 8.0fps selected. At least two each time but it didn't black out anything with the animation. 
 
Single shot time is improved. Seems to process quicker (I use the same Samsung 90mb/s cards in both).

You can swap the AE-L and AF-L button functions. Doesn't look like you can program any of the Fn buttons to AF-L/AE-L but again, not final firmware.
 
 
Or how about I leave you guys to gather info on your own or wait until the end of February? Geez...

You can swap the AE-L and AF-L button functions. Doesn't look like you can program any of the Fn buttons to AF-L/AE-L but again, not final firmware.
 
 
Or how about I leave you guys to gather info on your own or wait until the end of February? Geez...

Frame line for 32mm (not 33mm) shown.
 

 
Also, size comparison of X-T1 (left) and X-Pro2 EVF size. Completely unscientific...I just held my phone's camera right up to the eyecup. That's pretty close to what I the EVF sizes look like to me. X-T1 seems to be larger and slightly closer as well.
 

 
How the hell do people take those really good shots of viewfinders? Macro lens? 

You're welcome.
 

Frame line for 32mm (not 33mm) shown.
 

 
Also, size comparison of X-T1 (left) and X-Pro2 EVF size. Completely unscientific...I just held my phone's camera right up to the eyecup. That's pretty close to what I the EVF sizes look like to me. X-T1 seems to be larger and slightly closer as well.
 

 
How the hell do people take those really good shots of viewfinders? Macro lens? 

You can swap the AE-L and AF-L button functions. Doesn't look like you can program any of the Fn buttons to AF-L/AE-L but again, not final firmware.
 
 
Or how about I leave you guys to gather info on your own or wait until the end of February? Geez...

Not...great? I find that the small eye-cup and the smaller-than-X-T1 EVF make it difficult to see edge-to-edge. The corners of the EVF and OVF look slightly blurry to me. That's the unfortunate part and will probably keep me using the X-Tx line. 
 
The diopter is good enough that I can use the camera without glasses but then I'm just taking my glasses on and off. Time to laser eye surgery.

There's definite improvement here. I shot mostly in downtown Vancouver at night but I did find focus snappier than on my X-T1. I usually used the EVF and having it in ISO12,800 looks like night-vision most of the time. 
 
 
I could not get it to take only one picture with 8.0fps selected. At least two each time but it didn't black out anything with the animation. 
 
Single shot time is improved. Seems to process quicker (I use the same Samsung 90mb/s cards in both).

I don't do this often but it did seem quicker. I think the X-T1 has slight lag in between shots but the X-Pro2 seemed to snap them off with no delay. Completely unscientific test and keep in mind that this isn't the final firmware.
 
 
I don't know what you mean by how spaced they are. You lift the outer edge of the dial and turn to adjust the ISO and just turn it to adjust shutter speed. It's quite easy to get the hang of. You only lift the dial about 2-3mm for ISO and the gap doesn't look big enough for water to get in there unless you really dunk it.

Dynamic range looks pretty damned good. Significant improvement over the X-T1. I went around shooting at ISO 12,800 at night in the city and especially using the new B&W filters, things look great. Pumped up to 400% DR, it looks almost HDR in some photos. I'll post samples when I've got them downloaded.
 
And as far as I know, there's no way to edit the RAW files at the moment but I assume you can push the limits even more then. 

Dynamic range looks pretty damned good. Significant improvement over the X-T1. I went around shooting at ISO 12,800 at night in the city and especially using the new B&W filters, things look great. Pumped up to 400% DR, it looks almost HDR in some photos. I'll post samples when I've got them downloaded.
 
And as far as I know, there's no way to edit the RAW files at the moment but I assume you can push the limits even more then. 

It's a pre-production model, but still.
 

 
 

You're welcome.
 

The X-Pro2 EVF is much smaller. About a quarter to 30% smaller, I'd estimate.
 
Completely unscientific...I just held both of them to my head at the same time. X-Pro2 with my left eye and X-T1 with my right.

You're welcome.
 

Yes, it is a push button. No, it is not a customizable Fn button (although this is a pre-production model so the firmware on it might not be the final). Also, the top D-pad button is always DRIVE. Only the left, right, down are customizable Fn buttons.
 
I'll admit the ISO dial stumped me a bit at first but after I RTFM, it's no problem at all.
 
I have...medium sized hands? I find that my pinky finger has nowhere to go and my thumb isn't correctly positioned for the grip. That said, way more comfortable to hold than the X-T1 but I think even if I bought the X-Pro2, I'd need some sort of grip on it. 

The X-Pro2 EVF is much smaller. About a quarter to 30% smaller, I'd estimate.
 
Completely unscientific...I just held both of them to my head at the same time. X-Pro2 with my left eye and X-T1 with my right.

Focus seems faster than the X-T1 but that might just be because I'm comparing the 35mm F2 to the old 35mm F1.4. I'll try both with the 16 and 56 this weekend.
 
Build is very good but it feels lighter than I thought it would. D-pad is clicky rather than spongy on the X-T1 and the EV dial moves pretty well. I didn't really have a problem with the X-T1 EV dial.
 
I didn't even notice that about the on-off before. X-Pro2's doesn't wiggle like the X-T1's.
 
Honestly, I haven't used the OVF every much. The new 85fps EVF is fantastic although it's about 30% smaller than the X-T1's. That part is honestly the dealbreaker for me, really. I can't go back after shooting with basically a big screen TV for a viewfinder for the last year.

I use one of these.

I was at a camera swap meet on the weekend, mostly looking for lenses and backs for my 'new' Bronica SQ-A that just arrived. Normally the sort of stuff that is at these shows is either in either expensive, in terrible condition or a lot of gear that no one has any use for anymore. Just as I was about to leave, I noticed a table that just got setup. 
 
He had a number of nice mint-ish lenses on the table but nothing terribly interesting until I saw a big heavy Vivitar Series 1 on the table. I had been looking for Vivitar/Tokina 90mm F2.5's on eBay but they're quite expensive for one in excellent condition and most didn't come with the matched 1:1 adapter. Seeing some for $250-400 without the adapter.
 
But all this guy wanted was $199! Canadian dollars, too... ($200CAD = ~$155USD). I even got him down to $120US as some other dude came to the table and remarked at how good of a find this was. There's a few scratches here and there but no dents. Rubber on the rings is fresh. No dust, no fungus, no haze in the optics. About as good as a 40+ year old lens can look.
 
Went home and ordered a Nikon to Fuji adapter. Fit it to my Nikon FE just to take a look through it. It's probably one of the best made lenses from that era short of Leicas and Zeiss lenses that I've handled. Absolute tank in terms of build quality, all metal construction. Focus ring is very well dampened. Long focus throw of roughly 270 degrees.

I bought a 16mm because the 24mm F1.4 was one of my favorite lenses when I shot Canon. I like the FOV so that's what I went with. Honestly, I haven't shot with it a lot, though. The 35mm F1.4 lives in my X-T1 most of the time.