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Denali3times

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About Denali3times

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  1. Steve I just read about the inversion process and it's really interesting! In the next days I will give a try to http://www.colorperfect.com/colorperfect.html?lang=en I didn't found colourfast. Silverfast editing software is a bit expensive at 250U$. As I already get really good tonalities in my files that I'm satisfied with, I can't justify to myself buying such a costly software. But I understand someone working with old color negatives to look for such tools! I will begin with Colorperfect to see if I get better results. One of my worry is that I will be unable to batch process. If so it will be ineffective for my main goal right now that is to digitized thousands of B&W negatives. It's mandatory than I can send hundreds of files at ounce.
  2. Just meet a young engineer who is willing to make it work! The project is to use a power pack with a USB out and a converter regulating the voltage to the camera. If everything work as planned, I will pass from a 1200mAh battery that don't last to a 20100mAh battery who last longer than me! Wouhou! More to come ;-)
  3. Thanks for the comment on that pic! That image have a good story...Many years ago, I won a regional photo contest with that one. The theme was «cemeteries» as you can easily guess! The sponsor was a funeral home and the winning picture got a framing and was shown at the funeral home. Around one year after the contest, I get a call from the owner of the home asking for another print of the picture...Someone had stolen the picture! Peoples with great taste but no respect at all ;-)
  4. Interesting to know. I'm not in the color negatives yet and don't have a lot of good ones. But I'm interested in testing what you propose in B&W as I still have few thousands to «scan»! I'm not sure though to well understand the difference it will make. In my first tests I was using Lightroom curve that I simply invert. It worked but the fine tuning after was a nightmare as all the controls were inverted or their functionality changed. Bad. Using Photoshop inversion in a batch process is fast. After some tests with different exposures, I choose to overexpose for 1 stop and after the inversion I only need minimal adjustments on the Lightroom curve if the negative was of «normal» contrast.
  5. In case you don't know, the black line around the picture is the actual outside limit of the original negative. Keeping it when enlarging images was a proof for an uncropped picture. That was named a full frame image...The origin of «full frame» digital sensors.
  6. I think it's worth it to share my experience with the process of digitize black & white negatives using the X-Pro2. If some peoples were thinking about it, it will be faster to make it work! First you need the following : X-Pro2 A good Macro lens (I use a Micro-Nikkor 55mm/2.8, exceptionnal lens for reproduction work) An extension tube (if your lens don't go to a 1:1 ratio) A lightbox (I use an old X-Ray lightbox!) A reproduction bench (I made one by myself, cheap but effective) A remote to avoid camera vibrations during exposure A can of compressed air for negatives cleaning A way to keep negatives in place and flat (I use a negative carrier from an old enlarger) An old 50mm. Used as a magnifier for choosing the good negatives from the bad ones. After testing, it appears that only Macro lenses can do that task with excellent results. I tried RAW as I always shoot RAW but I got artifact pattern. The JPEG processor correct the pattern perfectly. Here are the settings I use on the X-Pro2: JPEG ISO200 Auto speed +1 exposure correction F8 Manual focus (after a good adjustment, it stay at the right focusing distance) Drive = single Electronic shutter NR -4 Sharpening -4 Shadow details -1 Highlights details -1 Simple B&W custom setting Few months ago I asked my local lab to scan few negatives for an exhibition. They used a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED. I wasn't sure that the results were as good as the negatives were but at the time I had no way to have comparatives. Now that I have that set-up, I compare the scans from the lab to my «scans» made with the X-Pro2 and mines aren't just better, they are A LOT better! Much more tonalities. During the firsts experimentations, I search the web and found that when well done, this method give amazing results and I can confirm that. The only better way to digitize is using a drum scan, an impossible solution for my thousands of B&W negatives from 20 years of analog photography. When the «scans» are done, I transfer the pictures on computer, Using Photoshop batch process, I invert the negatives. After that I import the positives in Lightroom. The rest is similar processing as with digital pictures. Until now I have 1200 scans completed so I really can confirm that this method work! Hoping that it can simplified the process for others tempted by this solution for «scanning» B&W negatives. As exemple, here is a picture I first shoot 20 years ago using a Leica M4-P with a summilux 35mm on Tri-X film
  7. OK Guys...the results are absolutely amazing! After trying few macro lens options, I set my preference for a Micro-Nikkor 55mm 2,8 + tube. @Milandro, the curvature of the negative wasn't in the equation as my negative is maintained in place by an enlarger negative carrier. I can now confirm that my negatives reproduction are absolutely perfect. I compared them with some scans I get from a professional lab using a Nikon 5000ED scanner and mines are, way out, better with more tonalities and approximately the same pixel count when using the XPro2. Here are the useful information if someone goes the same way: Only real macro lenses give good to outstanding results Micro-Nikkor 55/2,8 is an extraordinary lens I didn't test Fuji Macro because of high price and no need of autofocus but I believe it must be excellent The negative must be flat so the use of an enlarger negative carrier is mandatory (or similar negative holder) The use of a remote trigger is mandatory (I use a cheap remote with cable from Amazon) My light source is an old X-Ray light (white balance isn't a problem with B&W negatives) The «scan» time is calculated in seconds, not in minutes. Only depend of the time it takes me to change negative in the carrier! WooHoo! Cost = zero/scan if I consider that I already have the XPro2 and a friend borrowed me his old 55mm with have a stiff focus ring so was never used. I made myself the reproduction rig with stuff I already had. Seriously I was hoping the results will be good but they are stunning. When taking time to test and refine all the variables, it works great. Now the only things I still must do is «scanning» 20 years of B&W photography...
  8. After intensive testing of coupling the two Fuji extension tubes together with my 56mm, I had to conclude that it's unusable for critical reproduction work. The ratio was really good, allowing framing a little bit larger than the 24x36mm negatives. But the sides and corners were always unsharp, independently of the aperture used. My goal is to «scan» a large quantity of B&W 35mm negatives using my x-Pro2. I now must turn to macro lenses to achieve the near 1:1 ratio with the pro quality I know I can get.
  9. Is someone have tried the AC adaptor for XPro2? There is one manufactured by Fuji and a third party one sold on amazon. Here is the name and link to Amazon: HQRP AC Adapter for Fujifilm X ( https://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Adapter-Fujifilm-FinePix-HS30EXR/dp/B00CRD3UDM ) Many years ago I ask a friend to transform a Canon 10D battery charger into a cold temp battery holder that I can keep in my jacket on Alaska high mountain expeditions. At the time I used the AC adapter that goes in the battery compartment of the camera and wired it to the modified charger that was holding the batterie. It works perfectly until the camera itself freezed in minus 40 temp. I plan to do the same with the cheap ac adaptor and am curious to see if someone tried a similar project for cold weather. I suppose that the same accessories could probably be used to connect the x-Pro2 to a power pack instead of the short-life NP-W126s...
  10. There's no in-camera curve tool and I don't personally think it's necessary. Giving the info I have of what you want, I would try the following settings: +1 stop (or more) exposure compensation -1 (or -2) Shadow adjustment -1 (or -2) highlight adjustment for saving the highlight depending of the scene contrast
  11. Thanks. I have seen this blog and it convince me to order the 11mm tube. I will update this forum when I get it.
  12. The Fuji short-life batteries is the only thing Fuji didn't get better since my first Xpro1. The 126 batteries didn't last long enough for serious shooting all day long and the x100s batteries...a real pain. In a trip last year in Barcelona, I was unable to charge the small batteries fast enough and need to wake up at night to change the batteries in charger... Maybe upgrading shortly to the x100F just to get a little better battery life. I get a D5 from Nikon for testing and I had been unable to go through a single battery after 1200 shots! Lots of amelioration possible at this point from Fuji. BUT I will not want to exchange my XPro2 for a D5 anytime soon except if I begin to go at the gym ;-)
  13. Hi, first is your screen is adjusted to get preview of white balance and exposure? If so and you see the stars, you're supposed to see them after transfer too. Second try to bracket your exposure, taking 5 shots at -2, -1, 0, +1, +2. It will show you the best exposure to look for in your next shooting sessions.
  14. So I assume nobody here know the answer...I ordered the 11mm tube. We will see. But I got another problem : grid artifact! Photographing negatives implies a strong front light so I noticed a grid pattern when looking at my files at 100%. I tried few things to minimize that without any amelioration. I supposed that it was a result of the absence of anti-aliasing filter. As last attempt, I change from RAW (that I always use) to JPEG and...no more grid! The camera correct perfectly the more than annoying grid artifact and deliver a perfect jpeg. Alleluia.
  15. Hi, Is someone know if I can get near 1:1 reproduction ratio using the two Fuji extension tubes with my 56mm? I'am looking for a set-up for digitalizing my B&W negatives. After trying few scanners in the under 1000$ range, I know I can do better using one of my Fuji cameras. I already get amazing results but looking to use most of the xpro2 sensor instead of around 2000x3000px area. As I already have the 56 and the 16mm extension tube, buying the 11mm tube will be much cheaper than buying the 60 or even the 80 macro lens... Thanks
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