XtJerry

On to the new X-T4. Neither Simethicone nor Beano can solve Fuji GAS. My X-T3's go to my daughter, replacing her aging X-T2's which go to a better home somewhere. I shoot mostly with OIS lenses although I do have some non-OIS lenses, I prefer (for my style of photography) to use the zooms to react to changing composition quickly and not change lenses so much in the field. With newer camera features, better higher ISO's and Topaz AI plugins to Photoshop, I am hoping to free myself more from my long standing "addiction" to my Gitzo tripods. At 86 my hands aren't the steadiest. I am hoping that the addition of the additional axes provided by IBIS with my OIS lenses will give me less shaky shots with my hand held image making. I have been a hobbyist photographer for 67-68 years. (Somewhere I still have my first Kodachrome color slide with my first serious camera from the early 1950's) Any thoughts that IBIS with OIS lenses will help much? Jerry(Kit: 8 & 12 mm Rokinon. 23 f/2, 35 f/2, 60, 10-24, 16-80, 55-200, 50-140, 100-400 w/ 1.4 tele-extender, X-T3, X-T30 Fuji and Sony RX100m7.

Found this site which has some infrared shots with new Fuji 14-80 mm. Doesn't look like hot spots are a problem with this lens, at least at f/8 and f/11. If I understand the hot spot issues correctly, I would infer that f/4 and f/5.6 should be okay also. https://www.flickr.com/photos/ricopfirstinger/sets/72157710795891867/ I had sold my old X-T10 infrared conversion a while back. Looks like I will now have Life Pixel convert my X-T30. My "regular" photography is with a pair of X-T3's. Jerry

Has anyone checked to see if the new 16-80 mm lens has any infrared hot spots? If so what are your results? Thanks

One more vote in favor of the joy stick. I rarely photograph people so a few seconds to focus is not a problem. The joy stick frees up the multi-selector to do other things for me. One disclaimer: I use manual focus with "red high peak" almost as much as I use autofocus. Jerry

A quick format method that I have seen listed several places. It works great for me. I only format with the trash button. I do not delete an image or group of images. With camera turned on, hold trash button down for 3 sec. or so. While continuing to hold down trash button, press the rear command dial (the wheel at the upper right of the back). The screen will ask you to choose slot 1 or slot 2. Follow commands to delete all of the images on the card in that slot. You must do the process twice, each time choosing the slot with the card you with to format. Remember this process, by reformatting the card, deletes ALL images on that card. Saves menu diving to clean and format cards. With regard to uploading. I use a card reader. I download my images for the day and often continue to use the card the next few days, downloading only my new images for each day, usually to a separate folder in my main images folder. I use 32 GB files which often last me two or three days when I am seriously shooting. \\ I shoot only RAW so my slot 2 is a backup. When I have essentially filled the 32 GB card, i retire it and use another card to finish my trip, event or whatever. The second slot contains a 256 GB for backup and this card is good to backup at least eight 32 GB cards. At the end of the trip or event, when I get home I download my images via card reader from my 32 GB cards to my computer and to my backup external drive. At that point I reformat, using the technique listed above for both all of the 32 GB cards used and the 256 GB back card. I carry sixteen 32 GB cards and two 256 GB cards. I have yet to run out of space even on a four week trip. Maybe more than you all want to know, but perhaps this is a help or idea trigger for someone. Jerry

Thanks, Jerry

I understand that the flash protocols have changed for the X-T2 and that the Nissin i40 will not do TTL with the X-T2. Has anyone checked to see if the Fuji EF-42 or the EF-20 will do TTL with the X-T2? Thanks, Jerry

I just checked ISO "L" at both RAW + Fine and RAW alone. I get 200 at ISO 200 and 100 at ISO L. Jerry

Does the Nissin i40 flash unit high speed sync with the X-Pro2? It doesn't on my X-T1 and I really want that syc for outdoor casual portrait fill flash. It appears that the i40 can support high speed sync if the camera has that function. Added Edit ----I am referring to high speed sync in TTL mode not manual mode. The X-T2 specs indicate that it will have high speed sync. I assume that the X-Pro2 does also and wonder if anyone has tested out high speed sync with the Nisson i40 and the Pro2? Thanks in advance for your responses. Jerry R

Looks like my question answered on several sites. Seems the X-T2 will use the current batteries as well as the new one. Jerry

I am assuming that the current NP-W126 made for the X-T1 and X-T10 will continue to work in the X-T2 as well as the new battery made for the X-T2??? I have 8 of those batteries, as my late wife and I both used them, and they worked fine for us in our X-T1's and 10's. Jerry

The Fuji site ( http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/xf_lens/about/optical_image_stabilization/ ) states that the checking frequency is 8000 times per second. does that imply that OIS is okay up to 1/4000 when hand holding? Jerry

Thanks all. Rico, I have been using the "Nikon 1/500" rule to turn off OIS since Nikon is where I come from. Do you tend to be sure that it is off at slower shutter speeds than 1/500? Being 82 my hands aren't the steadiest anymore. I also leave it on in unusual circumstances on tripod. When I do leave it on on tripod, I usually back up with some shots on and some off just in case. However, so far I can't tell which is which. CRAusmus - no apology needed. We are all at various levels of information re: different aspects of photography and i appreciated your honest effort to be helpful. You actually had hit on my concern by implying that at a certain shutter speed it wouldn't help. I was looking for that certain shutter speed. Jerry R

I read that on some cameras that a faster shutter speed using image stabilization can actually cause blurrier images that not using it. If this is so for Fuji X series lenses, then what is the maximum shutter speed that it is safe to use image stabilization? I assume that this could vary either with focal length or ...? Jerry

From what I am finding so far, you are correct in that the adapter only fits the S series. LCD is not the best to use outdoors in clumsy low positions, Old body you know!! Even with the Hoodman Loupe it is not as easy to critical focus with the LCD. The other problem is that it does not swing in a direction to be useful when the camera is in a vertical (portrait) orientation Jerry R

Any one know of a right angle viewfinder attachment that will fit the X-T1? I really miss using the DR-5 with my Nikon for low level macro work. Jerry R

Operator Error Doing a Fn button check my daughter's X30 had had the marked Macro Button function changed. All is now well and working properly. Thank you so much and I apologize for not checking the button function first. Jerry R

Yes, I have both functions, but it doesn't focus any closer with those settings than it does with the macro turned off. Does the macro setting allow for closer focusing or does it just enable more accurate or faster focusing up close?

The "manual" is not clear about the macro function. I am an X-T1 user so I am rather familiar with Fuji menus and functions, although I never used the macro function on the earlier firmware version of the X-T1. When I use the menu to turn on the Macro function, I see the macro icon at the left; but I have minimal, if any, closer focusing in AF over having it turned off. I have tried various focal lengths. Do I have a defect or am I not doing something right? Jerry R

The "manual" is not clear about the macro function. I am an X-T1 user so I am rather familiar with Fuji menus and functions, although I never used the macro function on the earlier firmware version of the X-T1. When I use the menu to turn on the Macro function, I see the macro icon at the left; but I have minimal, if any, closer focusing in AF over having it turned off. I have tried various focal lengths. Do I have a defect or am I not doing something right? Jerry R

Depending upon what I am shooting, the genre I am shooting in and the light & time of day, I use a variety of combinations of the menu, LCD and EVF. Thank you Fuji for providing so many options. I am a "very old film" shooter, but I quickly adapted to the flexibility of the digital capabilities and enjoy having choices for what I am doing at the moment. Jerry R

Thanks to all. I did get the Toshiba, above, as it met all of my criteria except perhaps weight. In my family there have been 4 Toshibas and our fortune has been the opposite of darknj. We have not had problems; but, again, it may just be chance or the particular use we have put the lap top to. Thanks, again XtJerry

I am leaning toward a Toshiba S55-C5262 at B&H at $899 (US). But still open to ideas and thoughts. i7 Dual, 12 GB RAM, 4GB dedicated ram on GPU15.6" Tru-Brite screen, 1900x1080, 1T hard drive, HDMI, DVD, back lit keyboard Thanks for lead on Surface 4. It may not have some of what I need. Thanks, Jerry

You have all been really helpful. I am still looking. Light, small, DVD capable, i7 chip, HDMI capable, fast enough for Photoshop CC and 500 GB memory are what I am narrowing down to. Must be one out there that I can afford. Jerry

Milandro with a degree in psychology. a degree in administration and training in engineering, I understand both redundancy and OCD. I don't have OCD, but I do believe in redundancy. Lap tops are more vulnerable to theft that a stashed modern external drive. I don't like spending thousands of dollars for photography trip and coming home empty handed. In the film era I lost 80 rolls of 36 exposure negatives of a 10 week photography trip through Europe to a thief in Paris. I have also had one memory card go sour after copying the images off. I use only Lexar and Sandisk from B&H. Also I shoot in raw. Sh*t happens.