sacherjj
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Posts posted by sacherjj
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I don't know if a 16.3 MP X-Trans-III would beat the D500 20 MP sensor. But it would be good. However, Fuji needs to work with what silicon is available. I'm not sure they had a choice. Is there a newer technology 16 MP sensor available?
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From the reviews I've seen, it seems like the 50-140 with a TC on it is about as sharp as the 55-200. So you could start there and have a lighter kit. Put the extra into the 100-400.
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Lock your 18-55 at 35mm and go shoot. Then lock at 23mm and shoot. Then lock at 18mm. Or 27mm.
Get a feel for what focal range you like best.
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I saw it counting down to zero, I thought. It has been a few weeks. So I assumed it would stop.
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I've been frustrated by the 999 and never seen the 1999. Seems like it would be very easy to have Fuji implement a "---" mode that just shoots until you stop it. I wound up getting a $20 remote to get this done.
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I went with the 60mm f/2.4 because of that reason. f/2.8 is usually low enough DoF. The disadvantage is the focus speed of the 60. If the 50mm is closer to the 35mm f/2 in speed and weather sealing, it will be a great lens for portraits.
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I wonder how much more you get with 4:2:2 output via HDMI to an external recorder. There was only one shot where the highlight was noticeable.
This is what excites me about 4k video. Not for final distribution. But you can add production value of pans and pushes, with a fixed camera position. You did that very well in this video.
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18-55mm is F3.4 at 35mm vs F2 of the fixed.
Personally, I find that I need to shoot with primes at times to challenge me in composition and to not get lazy. I shoot to long and want to shoot wider. So not having that 55mm option is just something to force myself to 35mm.
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Was it discounted with the Fuji sale? If so, then you get to wait 3 months until they do that again.
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Hopefully, this would be easy to turn off. Sometimes you just want to blow out the background.
I'd love metering like on the Nikon 810 that is setup so that you expose to the right as much as possible without blowing out highlights. This gives you the maximum data.
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Make sure to pick up ND filters for the lenses with which you want to shoot video. In sunlight, I had to use stacked 8, 4, and 2 stop ND filters to get the frame rate down to 1/60 at ISO 200 and 2.8 aperture (These are cheap ND filters so they may be only 10-12 stops total. If you haven't done much video, you need to keep the shutter speed at about 2x frame rate for smooth looking video. Otherwise, you get strobing instead of motion blur. That makes video much harder to watch.
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Not sure if the knock off extension tubes work, but might also be fun for taking that XC a little macro on the hot wheels.
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Did some tests in my X-T1 with the 18-55mm F2.8-4 OIS. Standing still, I can shoot video as on a tripod. When walking on smooth ground, if I work really hard, I can shoot smooth video. Sometimes. Rough ground, there is too much motion. 35mm seems to be the limit where it starts to look really bad.
The worse is the pan, as the OIS seems to allow pan mode and look at just tilt stabilized. Then the pan stops abruptly and reverse. Really not good enough.
I'll have to try it with a folded up tripod or monopod for some more mass, but I would have no problems with video from a still position. Especially with a monopod in the mix.
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X-M1 for $150 and XC16-50 for $150, both on eBay.
If he treats them right, he may be able to use some of your other lenses some times.
This one ends in 11 hours with no bids: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fujifilm-X-Series-X-M1-16-3-MP-Digital-Camera-Black-Body-Only/272418298502?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D1cc46c29eb6a4ee5ae260236818ee31c%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D14%26sd%3D322282442855
Seeing buy it now for the lens at $150.
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My work sourcing LCDs for my day job has taught me that most of these sources are the same. I get the cheapest decent glass protector on Amazon. Never had a problem. I did run over my phone with one of these thin glass protectors on it. I embedded my phone in the ground and broke this protector, but the phone was fine. Didn't realize the phone was gone untBluetoothetooth started cutting out.
For my digital cameras, I try to get fingerprint resistant coating. This has been good in the X-T1 with my oily nose.
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From my understanding of the 2.5mm 3 conductor plug that is used in Canon and Fuji, you have one for focus (i.e. half press) and one for shutter. For a remote to use it, you would need to trigger a focus, then delay for the camera to wake up before triggering the shutter.
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This really needs added to professional cameras.
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Is there any way to save copyright data into the EXIF data in camera? With the ability to use JPEGs out of camera, this seems needed even more than did on my Nikon.
The only way I have found is adding this on the PC. Did I miss anything?
X-T2 and 18-55mm
in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20
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Lenses almost always beat bodies. I went with an X-T1, because I don't have the lenses yet. Once the lenses I need are in place, I may go with the X-T2. I will most likely wait till there are good used ones for a lesser price.
I would love to have a little faster focus, but only place I've seen this is trying to get the limited depth of field shots of pets looking up. Sometimes, I'm 1/4 second too slow with the whole process. Not sure if the X-T2 would help or not.