bjorke

I've shot a lot in torrential rain using XT-1 and XPro2. Might other cameras have survived? I can't say. What I can say is that I just went out and assumed it would all work and.. it did. One less technical thing to worry about so that I could pay attention to what I was *actually* doing -- shooting, not worried about keeping gear dry.
 
've seen both X-Pro2 and XT-2 get fog in the finder in really heavy downpours. That chamber is isolated from the "real" lens-to-sensor chamber. It will dry out.

Thanks -- if you're outdoors at a fixed f/stop, have you tried just setting manually and running with it? The light is pretty constant.
 
After years of enjoying auto settings I've gon eback to manual, since the settings are pretty consistent for all cameras. Handy if you have more than one body

Lenses are tools. Do you prefer a hammer, or a screwdriver?
 
What matters is what you're building, and not the price of the hammer vs the price of the screwdriver.
 
If you're not sure, go for the 35 because in a pinch you can always crop to a smaller frame but not crop to a larger one.

Thanks. Very useful. I've started using an Android tablet, which is similar.

I've been trying it out, and since I couldn't find any sort of guide of using it with Fuji Camera Remote, Instax, etc, I've started writing one here  -- hoping that folks here might also lend any insights or expertise on making it better!
 
Thanks,
kb

I'm very curious about the XF50ƒ/2WR, but while waiting I purchased a little Meike lens as a temporary friend. Here are a few notes about my experience with it:
 
http://www.botzilla.com/blog/archives/000893.html

I'm very curious about the XF50ƒ/2WR, but while waiting I purchased a little Meike lens as a temporary friend. Here are a few notes about my experience with it:
 
http://www.botzilla.com/blog/archives/000893.html

survey is dated. Since the 23f2 came out it has been my primary optic, with the two 35's and the 18 

The OVF is in full color at all times.

If Ken only posted assertions with which everyone already agreed, no one would post angry links about them.
 
It's 2016 and people still don't realize that's how the internet works?

I made a quick chart of all the film simulation modes, and compared them to Adobe's "Auto" handling of RAF, too.
 
http://www.botzilla.com/blog/archives/000884.html
 
WRT the link above, by Damien Lovegrove: he mentions "Acros B" multiple times! Perhaps his preproduction X-Pro2 had such a mode, rather than "Acros Ye"?

Three lenses?
 
Fuji 18mm f/2
Fuji 35mm f/1.4
Fuji 56mm f/1.2

This thread has certainly gotten me re-thinking my Acros set-up, which I'd naively based on the B&W setups I use on other Fuji-X cameras.
 
On regular B&W, I +2 the shadows & roll the highlight, sharpen harder, less noise reduction... Across looks to do a lot of that, in a more nuanced way, right out of the box.
 
And Damien Lovegrove using a green filter... well if you have faces that are young and flawless then getting extra texture is okay I guess! I've typically used red to reduce blemishes. 
 
Hmm Hmmm Hmmm (time for lots more shooting)
 
BTW, "real" Acros in Rodinal with stand processing (no agitation, leave it for two hours!) is pretty sweet (shot with a Bronica, since we're talking film!):