milandro

I appreciate your being affected by a disorder or condition but you made a blanket statement that is not for the majority of people. You may very well have OCD and an opinion driven by this but OP might not and therefore not being helped much or at all by your advise which is a product of your condition. Though logical for you, dismissing buying a second hand camera is certainly not a common view otherwise your OCD wouldn’t be a condition but the norm among people and you know very well that it is not. We buy and sell secondhand cars, drive in rented cars, sleep in (washed) used sheets in hotels, eat in (washed) used plates. Would you advise people not to go on holiday, rent a car, sleep in an hotel and eat in a restaurant?

I’ve bought an almost new X-E2 together with a 23mm, once sold the 23mm the camera had costed me as much as I asked for a NEW (still unopened) X-E1 which I’d bought for the lenses that the camera came with. $550 for a used X-E2 is way too much. Look further especially with lenses which you might be able to use or sell. There are plenty of people out there with almost unused cameras, find one and be happy. Not worth buying the X-E2S, in my opinion. Unless you have a obsessive compulsive disorder, cleaning a camera with a wipe would remove any trace of the former owner. When I eat in a restaurant I don’t think that the plate I am using has been used (and cleaned after) by thousands of people.

Surveys are never conducted on 100% of the users but are are sample target and are limited to a certain amont of users which represent the target that one wants to know about. A survey on this forum would be as good as any, and, my take on this, statistically relevant at the very least for the European and American market. I agree that the Asian market has different characteristics but I am quite confident that here , albeit perhaps a small group of geeks, we are statistically relevant to the Fuji marketing purposes. http://greatbrook.com/survey-statistical-confidence-how-many-is-enough/ on on line research (including fora, blogs and social media) http://www.hubspot.com/marketing-statistics-1 I find it funny that people think that we are not relevant and yet polls, voting sessions, prayers and requests are continuously made, on this forum, for lenses, firmware updates new features and so on. It is one way or the other. We either don’t offer a meaningful sample because we are only a bunch of geeks not representative of the majority of the Fujifilm users ( in that case what’s the point in voting, asking or begging? If we are irrelevant Fuji won’t care...) or we are a representative and meaningful group ( and if we do then we are a relevant focus group).

refurbished cameras aren’t available everywhere, I think that the UK might be an unicum

We are somewhat representative of the fuji crowd in Europe and the US. But yes, hair can be split in many ways, yours or mine.

this is, I am afraid, the consequence of digital sensor being formed by a grid of sensitive cells, they can only work well with rays coming as perpendicular as possible towards the grid of sensitive cells. Unlike a film which has the capability to gather photons at an angle and still being gathered by the silver on the film, a sensor works pretty much like when you stand in front of a open fully open blade curtain. If the blades are completely open and you ( the sensor) stand exactly in front of the open blade, you practically don’t see the blades. Move more to the left , or right, a portion of the image will be blocked by the blades. Lenses made for traditional photography were not made for this. Even if they cover the format of a FF sensor, they will not perform well because of this and of course, perform better if you reduce the pupil by means of a smaller aperture than if you use it fully open. When you use a FF lens onto a smaller sensor, you are mostly using the center and more perpendicular rays, so, despite the inaptitude of a traditional lens towards its use on a digital sensor, you can still get pretty good results but still not in the same league of lenses made for the purpose. The lenses for a APS-C camera need being larger because despite the size of the optical elements they have to use a more perpendicular projection that a lens for traditional analog photography would hence larger lens even if the image circle is relatively small.

this matter is a much discussed (elsewhere) aching point affecting all the defunct X10-20-30 line. I had a X10 which came with the adapter and lens hood and used 52mm which personally I removed and never had too many problems with dirty lens even if I used a cap which closed the lens from the outside (leaving the same vented gaps which concern you). The front filter thread is 40.5mm a thread that isn’t easy to find, why did they ever chose that thread is known only to Fuji’s upper circles. Several brands of filters are said to be fitting even if they are only 40mm, but some mounts might be interfering with the front lens. apparently Marumi (and other brands) doesn’t. If it were me, especially on the X30 where the lens hood cannot intrude in your picture since you don’t rely on a OVF but on a EVF I would go for the adapter and occasionally blow the lens and filter clean ( as I told you I hardly ever had to do this on my X10).

more than anything is just something that we understand, even if it is wrong. Like saying that the sun sets (while it is the horizon that rises ) it is not true the sun doesn’t do that but it appears to do that and we know it doesn’t but still say so.

Define “ best”. If you mean the most advanced of the lenses that they made yes, but the real question is: " why do you buy one of these lenses?”. http://allphotolenses.com/reviews/item/c_7.html I sincerely doubt that you buy a lens like these because of its high(er) resolution which is still performing at a fraction than even the worst of the Fuji lenses. Most people buy these lenses precisely for their defective performance which returns a “ special effect” image. In fact there are so many people who modify Helios lenses to get an even worse image but one with more “ special” qualities. To THAT purpose, then the best helios is the worst, because it is “ too good"

it very much depends what you want. The early Helios, such as yours, have the desirable “ effects” and an almost circular aperture, while the latest models were improved and therefore not rich of defects-effects properties. One thing is for sure, if you are buying one for its great resolution power you aren’t doing anything sensible. On the plus side, these lenses cost so little that you can easily afford buying several types. I own a fairly late 44-M, which despite its better correction has a still some swirl to it ( but you really need to work hard to show it) but the construction is better than earlier models.

No, I am not saying that , you are misinterpreting me, but I am afraid that this thread is not about this kind of thing, so there is no point in further making that point clear. Suffice to say that if if marketing were an exact science no one would ever produce a product which will not meet the market expectations. As we know, that happens... even to Fuji. Take the now discontinued ( because of their poor sales record) series X-10-20-30 or the X-M1 the camera which only ever few people bought. A clear example of a camera which wasn’t welcomed, at least not well enough, to secure a commercially viable production and has relatively quickly been taken off the market. http://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-x30-and-fujifilm-xq2-officially-discontinued-is-this-the-definitive-death-of-fujis-23-sensor-x-cameras/ http://www.fujirumors.com/low-sales-fujifilm-x30-71th-ps-digital-camera-ranking/ That’s what I am saying but no point in arguing this, Let’s leave it to that.

It doesn’t surprise me a bit that Fuji is abandoning this line of products ( while it does surprise me to read that anyone found the X10/20/30 bulky since they were absolutely “ petit” in my hands!). http://www.fujirumors.com/low-sales-fujifilm-x30-71th-ps-digital-camera-ranking/ Fuji is clearly re-adjusting their “ sights” for a better aim after the tentative introduction of several cameras and concentrating on the segments were they seem to have an edge over other companies. Despite the merits of these cameras they failed to impress the market by and large and sales were disappointing. I loved my X-10 and would have certainly liked the X-30 or a 40 but in the end I sold it in favor of a second X body ( bought at almost the same price that I’ve sold my X-10). Also they have to be careful in producing cameras that aren’t actually in the way of other models. After the X-100T and the X70 one would expect a X camera with an integrated zoom lens in the range that the X-10-30-30 had but with a larger sensor and all the modern firmware attributes, but making one of these would put such a camera in direct competition with a camera with interchangeable lens and a kit of lenses. Not good for the business.

yes, you can, as it says in the manual.

I have a camera with a screen protector ( X-T1) and one without, X-E2, which I bought later, I figured I was going to leave it without a screen protection to see if I really need one. It turns out I don’t. The way I use the cameras, probably doesn’t require any protection and I suspect that this is true of the majority of people. I also don’t have a screen protector for my not-so-smart-phone and managed to keep it without a scratch for almost 4 years, before of that I had a iPhone which I’ve sold to a TV production when I replaced with my current almost immaculate one ( since they bought it only for the looks to be used as bait for a program on street thieves). if I were to buy again a new camera I wouldn’t bother with a screen. However, if you ask for a recommendation I will recommend the one that I’ve bought for the X-T1 ACMAXX 3 0" Hard LCD Screen Armor Protector Fujifilm x T10 XT10 ...

My pleasure xpro2inidaho, to your very good health! Enjoy. As for clarity, much depends from what you mean by “ clearly”. The fact that many found out about this or not ( both ways, by not understanding it and by understanding it) shows that for some it was clear and for some others it wasn’t. I have no idea whether those who got it were more or less of those who didn’t.

well, although we are using different units for power we are still speaking of HP which, I remind you means, horsepower.

the camera settings play a huge role in the autofocus in dim light , and if you’ve chosen some over others any lens will hunt. If AF illuminator is enabled and not engaging is because it is not dim enough to engage otherwise it would. Anyway here are some words of wisdom http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/648-disappointed-with-fuji-x-t1-firmware-40-we-have-tipps-for-you/

All brands do what they think is best for them to sell things. If they will feel, one day, that the angle of view can substitute focal length and equivalent focal length, they will do it. I would be rather more afraid than the next generation will look at using a camera in a completely different way than mine or the few among the young people who find it necessary to use a camera.

Looking at the posting history of a new member dissing a camera is always interesting, since throughout the 8 posts, to date, all that was ever written were things against the X pro 2. What’s the point? I for one am not in the market for that camera because I am happy with X-T1 and X-E2, but if I were disappointed with a new camera (and especially if I owned another one that I like better) I would take my losses and sell it and be over and done with it rather that arguing, in upper or lower case style, my case against the fact that the camera is what it is. The X pro 2 won’t change because you complain about it!? You like it, you keep it, you don’t like it, you don’t. As simple as that!

Do not underestimate the ability of shooting at higher ISO that the Fuji sensor has. This article is illuminating (what a pun!). I agree with most of it. https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/how-to-overcome-the-fear-of-high-iso-and-take-sharper-photos/ You can really make great pics at 800 or 1600 ISO! So, the tripod is really, very often not necessary. I would certainly go for the 14mm but would still take a longer lens on the off chance I’d need a longer lens for details that otherwise would be too small even if cropped. Unless you are in a very windy situation changing lenses is not impossible and won’t necessarily mean that you get dust on the sensor. If it were me I would take a 12mm (I don’t have a 14) and I would also take the 50-230 (which I have, but I also have the 18-55mm).

I too, as Larry Bloch, don’t understand the yearning for more electricity even if you could only shoot 250 images with one battery. It takes no time to change a battery. Batteries are cheap and you can have a number in your bag . I have 3 on the X-T1 and never ever used all of 3 in a single shooting session but I don’t shoot in continuous mode either because I hate sifting trough a million of the same pictures afterwards. At the time when as a young man I briefly worked for a press agency they gave us a roll ( actually we had to load our own to save money from a 60 meter roll) and we had to make do, I learned back then to shot less and think more. However apparently Fuji is working on batteries with increased capacity, this maybe serves a real purpose to the film maker (and we are led to believe that there is improvement coming that direction but I don’t film so I wouldn’t affect me) but I don’t see why would anyone not have the time to change the battery when needed. Yes, it would be nice to have an earlier warning.

at the bottom of the chart you can read: Working Distance: Distance from the top of the lens barrel to the subject Shortest shooting distance: Distance from the image sensor to the subject So the working distance is the distance between front lens and subject and the shortest shooting distance is the distance between focal plane (where the sensor is) and the subject. Here is the chart with all distances for each lens. http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/accessories/pdf/mcex_01.pdf

This contribution is not written with the intent to patronize anyone! BUT. Any PDF file is searchable, this can be done with any PDF reader, you get a box where you will be able to search all parts of the PDF (appearing as a column left) containing the keywords of your search. However you can search the manual with your search function contained in your own browser without even opening it or downloading on your computer. Searching “ bulb” on the on line manual, returns 6 results. The third and sixth of which are relevant to this question. Only the last one tells you that the mechanical shutter speed can be set to 60 minutes max. in bulb, 1/4 to 1/4000 in P, Time mode 30 to 2 sec. all other modes 30 to 1/4000. It might not be immediately apparent that putting things on ES will limit you but is several parts of the manual it says that it has limitations... Electronic Shutter* 1 sec. to 1/32000 sec.(P/A/S/M mode) Bulb / Time 1 sec. fixed Yes, Mike G, modern cameras are complex and getting even more complex when they get given other functions later on which might be conflicting with other functions (and being mutually exclusive) but frankly speaking we should expect and credit people who want to use a professional camera to have the necessary knowledge to use the camera they choose. Simpler cameras are simpler for a reason. It is like buying a race car and then wonder why it hasn’t an automatic gearbox. I don’t mean to criticize OP but often times questions are asked in the forum where the answer is either obvious or already asked before (in this and other fora). This was the case with this question (again not a criticism to OP) the answer was already here ( besides being contained in the manual). The search for the terms “ bulb problem” on this form returns many relevant threads, the first of which, probably (in my opinion) contains the answer to OP problem here. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2710-x-t1-bulb-or-long-exposure-setting-problems/ This is of course somehow hidden in the recesses of the manual, but it is there, but who reads the manual anyway? Recently I had two friends of mine asking me to explain them how to use their pro cameras ( Sony and Nikon), I told them that I didn’t know their cameras as I know mine but that I would try to offer my help, and proceeded to explain them things only to find out that BOTH had no knowledge of basic concepts... which makes even reading the manual an almost pointless exercise (different situation of yours Mike G and OP, let’s be clear here). I remember that old Polaroids had parts of the camera identified with numbers because they were numbered in a sequence devised in a way so that anyone could follow the simple and graphic instructions and make no mistake in using the camera. I also remember manuals beginning with the phrase “ insert a film in the camera” just to prevent someone would start shooting without a film. This is not the case here but don’t blame the manual, because even the most graphic of them is useless if one doesn’t read it.

I don’t find the X-T1 manual too bad, it’s a manual like many others. This one for the X pro 2 that I’ve quoted above is a “ color by numbers” , so to speak, manual. Even if you know nothing about photography you can follow the graphic instructions. But many of its contents are applicable to the X-T1 too.

see if this helps http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-pro2/shooting/long_time-exposure/index.html there are things in Fuji cameras that are mutual exclusive, like the Manual Shutter allows you to go longer shots than a second which the electronic shutter won’t allow anything longer than a second. You are probably in one of these situations. These cameras are deceitfully “ simple” but the more functions are added the more they interact with one another.