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I have the Gfx50S and XT5. Its surprising how close the XT5 can get to the Gfx. I just uploaded some shots from the North CA coast, I was shooting both. Capture One lists the shots by time of day so going through them alternates for each camera. At times it was easy when I had the 70-300 on the XT5. But when shooting with a shorter focal length on the XT5, its not as noticeable without zooming into the photo. The Gfx will hold much more detail once you punch into the shot. While the Gfx has higher IQ, if I had to own just one, it would be the XT5, its just much more versatile.

I don't understand at all why your histogram is not changing with exposure - it does on my cameras. There is something wrong. The little histogram that you can have in the corner of the viewfinder is of little value - it's too small. If, like on my x-t5, you can have a full histogram with all three colour channels showing, assign a button to it. The resulting histogram is accurate for the jpeg only. The right hand highlight end is fairly accurate for raw, although you may squeeze out another half stop. You cannot recover blown highlights, so make sure the right hand side is not bunched up against the limit. Also remember, that if there are specular highlights in the picture, such as sun on water or mettalic surfaces the highlight end will show a narrow peak, which in this case, will be OK. For raw you can pretty much ignore the shadow clipping as the shadows will be recoverable, unless they are really dark. The histogram is of great use when taking landscapes with a tripod. I use it frequently. It tells me when I need a separate exposure or grad filter for the sky. Of course, you wouldn't use it for street!

Digging more into it the app still struggles at times if the setting to combine jpeg and raw together is on. Had all working after separating the two file types. Appears only Raws matched with Acros BW simulation were the problem. What I found further is the app is still "confused" by only some Jpegs shot with the Fuji Acros BW simulation. Even after is was working by all for a bit. The app is struggling with some of the Jpegs. I think that was the root of the issue. There is some bug that needs to be addressed with this situation. I do have a ticket open with support. We shall see if that goes anywhere.

RESOLVED - FRAME-ACCURATE TIME CODE ACROSS MULTIPLE FUJIFILM XH2S/XH2. With the recently released 5.10 firmware, it is now possible to jam-synch these cameras to the Atomos Ultrasynch Blue Time Code generator. Bluetooth pairing between XH2S/2 with the Atomos is tricky - turn on the camera, go to TC Settings>Time Code Synch Setting> Pairing Registration, and start the search. Turn on the UltraSynch Blue, go to Bluetooth settings, and start the search. The camera will appear on the Atomos display after a few seconds, select it. On the camera, a message will appear indicating a connection to the Atomos. Now the Atomos is registered with the camera and will appear in the registered devices section of the Bluetooth menu. Going forward turn on the Atomos, on the camera go to>TC settings>Time Code Synch Settings>turn on the "Connect to Atomos AirGlu BT" for each session. To get time of day TC into the Atomos install the Ultra Synch Blue app' on your phone and jam the phone time to the Atomos. According to Fuji and Atomos documentation, it is possible to synch six cameras to the Ultra Synch Blue. I am shooting a documentary with multiple XH2S' and having frame-accurate matching time code is a huge benefit in editing. Thank you Fujifilm!!!!!!! I got mine at https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1569940-REG/atomos_atomxsybl1_us_ultrasync_blue_with_usb_c.html

Flicker reduction possibly