Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

I was wondering whether anyone's shooting landscapes with the 16-55mm lens.  I am off to the lake district in October and thought I might add this to my kitbag to get the benefit of WR but I can't see many landscape samples online from this lens.  Just wondered what people's thoughts were?

 

Also as an aside, has anyone had any issues printing large (A3+) with this lens, compared to images taken with primes (I normally shoot with a 14mm and 35mm in this range)?

 

Thanks in advance.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I shoot a lot of Landscapes with this lens. It is excelent ! I print up to DIN A2 and I am absolut happy with the results.

You can see exsamples on my Flickr acount "MKLA380".

Note: For printing A2 I convert the picture size with Photoshop.

Link to post
Share on other sites

No issues here. It's my do-everything-lens. Performs best at the extreme ends of the range. At 35mm, equals the 35 1.4 and at 16mm equals the 16 1.4 from a pure resolution point of view. Lacks a little behind the 56 1.2 and is roughly equal to the 23 1.4. At the same aperture numbers that is.

 

The 16-55 is my workhorse during weddings. It delivers in every category. I wouldn't hesitate using it for anything, knowing fairly well that it will prove its worth.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks @Colourix, those Iceland images were just the ticket and helpful to hear good feedback on A2 prints!

 

Marc it's great to hear the resolution is up there with the Fuji primes, I just wish the XT1 had another 8mp to utilise the quality of the glass the system has.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Marc it's great to hear the resolution is up there with the Fuji primes, I just wish the XT1 had another 8mp to utilise the quality of the glass the system has.

 

8 more MP will hardly improve resolution at all. That's more a mental thing with users. I didn't see any resolution benefit when Leicas M240 came out. That was a switch from 18 MP to 24 MP. No visible difference. I guess it will be the same with Fujis new sensor.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Both, actually. I didn't print maximum size with the comparison files at the time and I didn't own the M240. It was a test to check my doubt at my leica dealer. Same lens, same tripod position, same aperture, base ISO. 

 

Sensor resolution, in my opinion, is the most overrated digital camera feature. Ever. Besides, I rarely crop, if at all. Getting stuff right in camera is part of my workflow.

 

In fact, having better technical ability with photography will get you sharper pictures than 16 vs 24 MP...

 

I'd much rather see a 16 or 18 MP sensor with better ISO and improved dynamic range.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for sharing Mark. What experience do you have of printing from you Fuji X? I'm thinking of getting a 16x24 printed, I'm not to worried about technique etc as it was taken at base ISO, 14mm prime, mid aperture and tripod mounted. Any potential issues should therefore limited to the sensor's resolution.

Link to post
Share on other sites

First of all, I'm not used to the inch measurements. Living in Europe, I use cm measurements, so we need to get our calculators out if he want to go on ;)

 

I printed a 120cm wide print (thats 47 inches wide) with the 10-24 and had no issues. It was hand-held at base ISO and 5.6, taken at my honeymoon.

 

Biggest issue one can run into is wrong viewing distance. If you get up close to the print with a magnifying glass (I'm obviously exaggerating...) every large print will show weaknesses. When viewed from the proper distance, you can print even larger without the need for a D800 or 5DSr... that being said, the print from my honeymoon looks fine even up close.

 

Now back to your question regarding the 16x24... thats a 40x60cm print and I wouldn't hesitate at such a size. That's no challenge for the excellent sensor and lens combination.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
×
×
  • Create New...