Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I would like to ask if there is any way you know Of to adapt mamiya 645 lenses to fuji x mount. And by adapter i mean with glass elements (speedbooster), not a plain adapter just to fit another mount.

 

thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

 

<sorry, I see now this adaptor is for Sony - wasn’t able to figure out how to delete my post>

Is something like this what you are looking for? https://www.adorama.com/kabenexma645.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_J9AUFr19E-ozxexZkYqMnZZAvy1-1Kf8P4kixHtZOrzOXb8vbi9y4aAlUqEALw_wcB

Good luck,

Al

Edited by tiggyboo
Posted erroneous information
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I can't seem to find a combination of speedbooster + adapter, and definitely no speedbooster that does mamiya645->fujiX

EDIT:

There are 645 to EF and EF to X adapters... so you could do a double adapter to mount a 645, but making the medium format lens brighter on X doesn't seem to be possible.

Edited by matsonfamily
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

How about:

Fotodiox  Mamiya 645 (M645) Mount Lenses to Canon EOS (EF, EF-S) Mount SLR Cameras; infinity focus or beyond allowed

https://fotodioxpro.com/products/m645-eos-p

plus….

Lens Turbo II

https://zyoptics.net/product/lens-turbo-adapters-mark-ii-for-fuji-mount-camera/

I use a similar set up on my Fuji.  I bought a slightly different Fotodiox Mamiya adapter but to Pentax PK, cut off the PK and changed to M42 keeping the same flange focal distance (PK and M42 are equal distance).  From here I added a M42 to FD adapter so as to fit my FD to Fuji Metabones Speed Booster.  Going the EF route above would be easier but FD to Speed Booster is what I had. (Yes, infinity is OK).  I wanted to use the excellent Mamiya 645 C 80mm f2.8 on my Fuji.  Now it acts as a light weight 90mm f2 on Fuji using only the sweet centre of the lens even when boosted.  Additionally on a dumb adapter I get a 120mm f2.8.

Don.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...