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Hi! Perhaps I need to follow your advice. The problem can be that JPGs containing a mixture of shades and colors are exposed to my liking. The problem arises when there are larger areas of light gray/white, like cloudy sky. I'm a bit surprised that X-T50 cannot expose those more difficult scenes correctly, as I've understood that modern cameras can analyse scenes and expose accordingly. In the past, when I used cameras with simple exposure methods or hand-held exposure meters the situation was different. The meter reading was just a starting point to adjust camera's settings manually. Moreover, cellular phones do not suffer this problem (although the result on the whole is of course inferior). Regards, Tuomas -
By iplayitofflegit · Posted
Before I get hazed for not knowing basic photography, I want everyone to know I am sincerely asking because I want to dial in a good formula in camera. I don't particularly like using ND filters for sunsets of the ocean because it usually causes me to dial in a slower shutter, blurring the waves. I want crisp, almost stopped motion if possible. In this past I have used ND on other camera systems with varied success. 2-4 stop is usually good. If there are no rocks in the image, graduated ND works great. Recently, I have been thinking about discarding the ND and going with an in-camera solution in my X-H2 or working with a 2 stop ND and doing the rest in camera. I used 200 dynamic range, ISO 400, +0.6 EC 1/210s with the Fujinon XF16mmF1.4 R WR at f/16.0 to achieve the attached photo. I've been shooting street at golden hour with 200 dynamic range with a lot of success, so I tried it on a sunset photograph and it worked out well. I think I could have gone +1 exposure compensation or greater and still rescued the highlights. I want to be able to lift the shadows a bit more, but not to the extent of if I had bracketed three images to be post processed for HDR, so I'm going to try 300 dynamic range and see what happens. Has anyone adjusted the tone curve in camera or anything else to achieve a well balanced photograph? Please share.Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…
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Yesterday I updated my X-H2S to firmware version 7.20 through the Fujifilm app, and immediately after, the camera stopped working. It powers on but is completely unresponsive. I tried every possible fix: With and without lenses Different lenses Removing battery and cards Force firmware recovery Nothing worked — the camera remains bricked. This body has been carefully handled with very limited use, and it’s just over 2 years old (so out of warranty). Tomorrow I’ll be contacting Fuji support and sending it to the Mississauga, ON service centre. This problem looks very similar to the app-based firmware update issue that Fujifilm publicly acknowledged in January 2023 for other X-series models, where cameras froze after updating via the app. In those cases, Fujifilm accepted responsibility and repaired them at no cost. I’m sure they’re going to charge me a lot of money for this. Do any of you have similar experiences?Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…
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I've tried shooting jpg in my Fuji cameras and I do not like the results. I find the shadows blocked up and the overall tonality too dark. I always shoot raw except for a couple of times when I've tried raw + jpg as an experiment. Why don't you spend some time adjusting the parameters of your chosen jpg film simulation to better fit your expectations. Increase shadow exposure, for example to reduce the harsh contast. Try a couple of steps at a time to see if you can get output more to your liking. -
Hi Everyone! I like to continue analyzing as to what I find problematic in X-T50's photometry/exposure measurement. My settings related to this issue are as follows: Film simulation in C (default), Exposure mode Multi (center-weighted, no difference), ISO 500 (increased if there is not enough light for handheld shots), DR400. Mostly I use the aperture-priority autoexposure, aperture at 8, picture quality fine, and for casual/travel photos saved as JPGs (for pictures which I find important I use RAW; I'm _not_ now discussing RAW; I would like to use the HEIC format but Mac's Photos app handles them so so slowly (in contrast to Apple's own HEIC) and Photoshop only recognizes them thorough the RAW editor!). So, I wonder why X-T50 underexposes certain similar kind of scenes, particularly, if the day is relatively bright, but cloudy and there are strongish/some contrasts although the light is dull, for example cloudy sky and dark forest. To me, looking by my eyes, the scene is not that contrasty. The result is a photo, let's say, too dim, the dark parts getting too dark. Of course, it is possible to lighten the photo by increasing exposure manually. The strange thing is that I didn't have this problem with my Nikon D7100. As to other lighting conditions, I find that X-T50 does great job: Colors are nice, photos are crisp and they are nicely exposed. To me, Fujifilm X-T50's photometry programming needs adjustment in situations in which the light is dull but there are strong whitish elements. All comments welcome! Regards, Tuomas
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