Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

 

This is my first post in the forum. I've enjoyed reading other posts that have been really helpful in the past.

 

This time I'm writing because I'm having a weird and random (super annoying) issue with my Fuji X-T1 and the Fujinon 10-24mm f4.

 

In summary, sometimes some photos are blurred or have no focus at all but the following photo is sharp.

I tried to check what is the cause of the issue but in many example both photos have almost the same settings.

 

Please find some examples in the following album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ignaciop/albums/72157690140523625

 

I'd appreciate it if you can give any tips about the issue.

 

Thanks in advance!

Link to post
Share on other sites

it is possible that you have your camera set up to shoot independently whether focus has achieved or not and that you are pressing wile moving the camera or before it has actually focussed  so shooting quickly in sequence identical pictures will result in the “ first” being blurred and the other being sharp.

 

Do check your AF set ups menu.

Link to post
Share on other sites

it is possible that you have your camera set up to shoot independently whether focus has achieved or not and that you are pressing wile moving the camera or before it has actually focussed  so shooting quickly in sequence identical pictures will result in the “ first” being blurred and the other being sharp.

 

Do check your AF set ups menu.

 

Thanks milandro.

 

I don't remember which is the option you mentioned about shooting independently wether the focus has been achieved. In any case, I'm pretty sure I got focus before shooting. Is there any way to check where the focus points are in the photo? (I remember Canon's software had that)

 

None of my examples were taken in continuos shooting mode, since I found this issue some time ago I usually take multiple photos when I consider necessary, that's why some of them look almost identical.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The AF focus Release/Focus priority are to be found in the AF menu if you have it on release ( which I postulate you do) the camera will shoot before it has achieved focus.

 

http://fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_guide/point02.html

 

RELEASE/FOCUS PRIORITY RELEASE Shutter response is prioritized over focus. Pictures can be taken when the camera is not in focus. FOCUS Focus is prioritized over shutter response. Pictures can be only taken when the camera is in focus.

In single mode you cant see all the ++++++ showing where you could focus during the shooting but you will of course see the shooting quadrangle if you have enabled it in the screen options..

 

I no longer have your lens but it was one of the first lenses that I have bought few years ago and I never had this problem

 

 

However I never use :

 

Pre-AF

AF illuminator

 

Check if any of those options is also enabled that might slow down focussing and if you have “ release” enabled this might explain what you have

 

Go through this page

 

http://fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_guide/index.html

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

One thing that has given me inexplicable unsharp images in the past is the "AF+MF" setting that allows one to adjust focus after AF by turning the focus ring while half-pressing the shutter release.  (This setting is under Shooting Menu #5).  I happened to move the ring just by holding the camera while re-composing after AF.  I just disabled this ´feature´, and haven´t had the problem since.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...