Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I am very disappointed in the X100F as I have now returned two (2) of them to my favourite camera shop, and gone back to m X100T.

When shooting  landscape or street scape the left side of the frame is fuzzy (same on both X100f's) by fuzzy I shoot an image at optimum settings say 400sec at f8.0 ISO 200 using any AF settings I load into lightroom and use navigate to view 100% look at the centre of image which is sharp then scroll to left and right, both are fuzzy (using street signs as or shop front signs as indicators) The same shot using my X100T are very sharp and produce excellent prints to A4 or A3.

None of the reviews of the X100F seem to find this problem so is it only my 2 examples suffering from it. 

 

Also go outside and set the X100F to auto iso / auto ss and aperture to f2.0 (wide open) point at bright sky and note the ss it goes red and stops at 1000 sec and subsequent shot is overexposed, set to f2.8 and ss goes to say 1500 or 2000 sec and is ok, does not happen on X100T.

 

So I am going to leave it for a year and try again as I would like 24mp to crop out bits of street scenes.

 

I am a Fuji convert from Canon and this very disappointing.

 

If someone from Fujifilm can help me out please contact me.

All best

stepwes

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also go outside and set the X100F to auto iso / auto ss and aperture to f2.0 (wide open) point at bright sky and note the ss it goes red and stops at 1000 sec and subsequent shot is overexposed, set to f2.8 and ss goes to say 1500 or 2000 sec and is ok, does not happen on X100T.

This is a limitation of the leaf shutter design and it's been this way all through the X100 series cameras. Your memory of the X100T may not be accurate.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a limitation of the leaf shutter design and it's been this way all through the X100 series cameras. Your memory of the X100T may not be accurate.

Indeed​, it is the same on my X100T (and a physical limitation of the leaf shutter).
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

This is a limitation of the leaf shutter design and it's been this way all through the X100 series cameras. Your memory of the X100T may not be accurate.

 

 

This explains the shutter speed limitation when the lens is a f/2, but it doesn’t address the alleged softness when shooting stopped down to f8. Can anyone else confirm this?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 7/26/2017 at 10:41 AM, freediverx said:

 

 

This explains the shutter speed limitation when the lens is a f/2, but it doesn’t address the alleged softness when shooting stopped down to f8. Can anyone else confirm this?

My copy of the X100F is very sharp at f/8 and wider apertures.  Perhaps the problem is too slow of a shutter speed for handheld shooting or other technique issues?

Edited by Herr Barnack
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...