Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I've shot hundreds of IR images, starting with a 720nm filter on my Fuji X100s and later having it converted to an IR camera.  Unfortunately, I have had no success with my new Fuji X100F; it seems the sensor is not sensitive as the old X100s model.

 

I would start by setting a custom WB using a gray card.  If you don't plan to ever look at IR color, it is not as important.

 

Anyway, I never shoot RAW so I can't help you there.  I always shoot color and then go to edit.  I use a simple editing program that comes with Windows Live Photo Gallery but the idea is the same whatever you use.

 

I make a copy of each image and convert one of the pair to B&W.  On each image, I adjust the curves and that does a lot.  I find boosting brightness and/or boosting contrast helps with many images, especially B&W.

 

On color IR, I always adjust the color.  Starting with the initial color set with the custom WB and gray scale, I pull the tint slider to the left and get less red/orange.  I also often lower the saturation.  You can also channel swap in Photoshop but I find I like the look with my current camera without channel swaping although I did it in earlier photos.  You can Google channel swapping IR for more, I would think.

 

I have 366 photos and counting in my Flicker Infrared album.  https://www.flickr.com/photos/97423979@N00/albums/72157649764779698/page1

Page 4 has lots of my newest photos.

 

There is lots of more detailed help on the web but this may help get you started.

Edited by neal3K
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...