Jump to content

Silver Mitakon Mark II 0.95/35mm vs its "Dark Side" version


Recommended Posts

Decided to share few interesting observations from comparing "two color" versions of exact same lens - Mitakon Mark II 0.95/35mm.

 

There are few obvious differences displayed on dealers site pictures - newer version has silver aluminum frame, red numbers for ft, and red dot marker for aperture position.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Deeper look unveils one more difference - silver version has more yellowish and greenish tint on glass surfaces, comparing to its "Dark Side" version.

 

Same from the rear look

 

One more positive difference in this new silver sample - aperture blades don't shake inside on f0.95 value (they do in the black version).

 

Other than that both lens deliver exactly same sharpness and contrast indoor. Will be interesting to try them under different light. Will share if notice any other difference.

And to my taste silver version looks more natural on Fuji-X silver/chrome bodies : )

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Didn't notice any difference while shooting, despite the different coating both lens deliver same results.

 

However my silver sample had issue with focusing ring. I didn't notice it much until compared with silky smooth focusing on black sample.

There was about 1-2mm lag on changing focus direction, which makes precise focusing a bit slower process.

 

Chinese seller offered return and replace, but that's too much time, so decided to fix that locally.

I've disassembled helicoid and re-distributed white grease. I've also adjusted better positions of helicoid lockers.

It solved the issue, now lens is focusing very smooth without any lag.

 

Few shots, all at f0.95

ISO200, 1/1700s, +2/3EV
33357224951_17f47c4425_b.jpg

ISO800, 1/60s
33329574002_e1a79d2269_b.jpg

ISO1250, 1/60s
33329573832_f18daa90f4_b.jpg

 

 

Few daily close up shots at f2 - f2.8


33135850330_c223b619af_b.jpg


33519488585_e5cb018e91_b.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Posts

    • Replied with samples on a different forum
    • Which direction is the light source coming from in the dark images? For example, if it coming from behind the subject, a common occurrence known as backlighting, put some light from the front toward the subject — you can do this with a flash unit, or by using various types of colored reflectors. Or, use long exposures with various grades and types of graduated neutral density filters to bring out the dark areas without blowing out the highlights. Or try bracketing exposures. There is a technique called ETTR, expose to the right, which will bring out shadow detail but risks blowing out the brighter sections. This may help in understanding DR settings as well as Dynamic Range Priority: https://www.jmpeltier.com/fujifilm-dynamic-range-settings/ p.s. The situation you are describing has been one photographers have struggled against since cameras and photographers have been around.  
    • Hi, I'm looking for some Fujifilm HDR RAF image samples from the X-T4, X-Pro3 or X100V cameras. These cameras should store 3 RAW images inside the RAF image file in HDR mode. In need it, to verify my own software, but don't find any downloadable samples on web. Can someone help? Christoph
    • I would like to get your comments on the following problem of mine: Occasionally, I do get too dark JPG pictures with X-T50 - when the scene is contrasty; I think this is the very situation. This can happen when sun shines from a blue sky or the sky is cloudy but still very bright. I find these outcomes strange, as in many other (more or less similar) situations I find that the exposure is balanced. Is there any remedy for this, as I cannot completely figure out as to why this happens. Photometry is at the most common center-weight setting. What factors/settings can affect the picture's exposure in X-T50 (in the situation I describe)? For JPGs I've set the dynamic range on (DR400 with ISO500). Can that do it?? I thought it balances contrasts... Well, I can adjust the exposure on a computer but that is extra work for holiday pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...