Jump to content

x100s massively underexposing images. Faulty?

rhorne
 Share

Recommended Posts

rhorne Newbie

rhorne

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

 

New to the forum and new to Fuji cameras, but I'm looking for some advice.

 

I just bought a used Fujifilm x100s but am having nothing but trouble with it.

 

Before I get into the details of the issue, I just want to stress that I'm not a camera expert, but I'm not a complete noob either, and am comfortable shooting in manual and regularly do so using my Nikon DSLRs.

 

The problem I've got that is that the knowledge and understanding I've developed from using my Nikons doesn't seem to be transferable to this x100s. As you'll all know, the more you use a camera the more you develop a feel for what combination of ISO/Aperture/Shutter Speed to use in any given situation. I bought the x100s because I'd read it was excellent in low light conditions and easy to use. Well I'm finding neither of those things to be true.

 

Almost every photo I take is massively underexposed. If I change everything to AUTO then it's over exposed. The only time I seem to be able to get a reasonably-exposed image is by using an ISO settings of around 1600 which is way higher than I've ever had to use before. 

 

If you look at the following image you will see a demonstration of what I'm talking about:

 

comparison.jpg

 

This was taken this morning in my office in daylight. The top image is from my Nikon and the bottom my Fuji. I used ISO 500, F4 and 1/160th of a second on both cameras. ND is off (I made this mistake first but soon realised). Exposure compensation is set to 0 but irrelevant when shooting in manual and white balance set to auto. I appreciate that cameras have different tolerances and standards but I would expect the same settings on 2 cameras to produce relatively similar images. But my two are night and day.

 

So, is this camera faulty or am I missing something? It is a used one and the person I bought it from is a camera reseller so has no personal experience with this particular unit.

 

Thanks in advance for your patience and advice.

Link to post
Share on other sites
johant Mentor

johant

Posted
Posted

Since there unfortunately are different ISO standard interpretations (and you can argue which one is correct), ISO value settings do not simply translate from one brand to the other.

 

If you use auto ISO on the Fuji, what does it choose, compared to the Nikon?

Link to post
Share on other sites
rhorne Newbie

rhorne

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No filters set on the x100. Film type set to standard, all other settings zeroed or disabled. It just seems really inconsistent. Images are either massive under exposed or over exposed. I've just been for a walk in the woods at mid day and had to set the ISO to 800/1000 before I managed to get an image anywhere close to being adequately exposed, which seems ridiculous to me. I'm used to ISO 200 or 400 at the most in these conditions.

Link to post
Share on other sites
eccentrus Rookie

eccentrus

Posted
Posted

No filters set on the x100. Film type set to standard, all other settings zeroed or disabled. It just seems really inconsistent. Images are either massive under exposed or over exposed. I've just been for a walk in the woods at mid day and had to set the ISO to 800/1000 before I managed to get an image anywhere close to being adequately exposed, which seems ridiculous to me. I'm used to ISO 200 or 400 at the most in these conditions.

Try to assign the ND filter to one of the function button and then see through the lens as you turn it on and off. If nothing moves between that time then the ND filter would be permanently on due to a faulty motor, which can help explain this case, if not I don't think remote diagnostics like this can help you, you need to send it back to fuji either way

 

Sent from my K016 using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites
Username Rookie

Username

Posted
Posted

You have your camera set to spot metering. Unless you want to meter a very small proportion of your image I suggest you set the camera to matrix or average. You will then get a more consistent metering of the whole scene rather than the whole scene being metered dependent on a 2% square in the centre.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Florian Enthusiast

Florian

Posted
Posted (edited)

Your camera seems to be in spot metering mode. In my experience, the automatic settings work best with metering set to either multi-metering or average.

 

In most situations in daylight with these metering options, the images should be properly exposed when you have aperture set to 5.6, shutter speed and ISO on auto. 

Edited by Florian
Link to post
Share on other sites
Username Rookie

Username

Posted
Posted

Yes, the camera is in spot metering. And the spot is metering the black lens so that would mean that the rest of the photo should be overexposed instead of underexposed...

...and it would be overexposed if you chose not to override the metering and deliberately manually underexpose by 2 full stops (according to the meter indicator). You'd be better off taking a picture of the lens in matrix or average and using the EC dial to fine tune the image to how you see it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
MirrorMirror Enthusiast

MirrorMirror

Posted
Posted

This. Exposure comp is most definitely set to -2.

 

30993738260_e84263e9f7_c.jpgScreen Shot 2016-12-01 at 6.37.40 PM by Phil Babbey, on Flickr

Must point out that as the OP is shooting in Manual that in this case this isn't actually the exposure compensation indicator, it's, strictly speaking, the metering indicator when in Manual mode. Which shows an under-exposure of -2. Same result, an under-exposure of 2 stops, as I pointed out in post #12, but not under-exposure by EC compensation.

Pedantically yours...

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Puma Cat Enthusiast

Puma Cat

Posted
Posted (edited)

Set your camera's exposure metering to metering in matrix or average. You have your camera set to spot. Spot will always metering the spot at which the square is over and can produce inconsistent results if that's not what you intend.

 

Yep, I was going to say it was set to spot metering AND manual exposure metering with set to -2.0 EV; its doing exactly what it was designed to do based on the settings by the operator. 

Edited by Puma Cat
Link to post
Share on other sites
MirrorMirror Enthusiast

MirrorMirror

Posted
Posted

Yep, I was going to say it was set to spot metering AND manual exposure metering with set to -2.0 EV; its doing exactly what it was designed to do based on the settings by the operator.

 

Sorry to be pedantic again. The camera is set to manual exposure to give an under-exposure of two stops. Exposure compensation doesn't come into it. The meter is showing 2 stops under-exposure not 2 stops exposure compensation.

 

The indicator has a dual purpose. In Manual mode it shows the exposure, in auto mode it shows the exposure compensation. Same value but a subtle difference.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • PoorAlchemist
      LUT doesn't works on resolve

      By PoorAlchemist · Posted

      I found the reddit topic i refere to :  https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/comments/1pc3f1e/cant_apply_new_fujifilm_gfx_55_lut/ "Update for y'all, It's just like what @ExpBalSat said, it's because of the backslashes in the names break them. I changed the file name and it works now. "   For me it was the solution. Realy annoying if it doesn’t work for you 😕  
    • Don Barar
      LUT doesn't works on resolve

      By Don Barar · Posted

      Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • crazyfields
      Please save me from insanity 23mm f2 vs F1.4r

      By crazyfields · Posted

      Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • George_P
      Please save me from insanity 23mm f2 vs F1.4r

      By George_P · Posted

      I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
    • crazyfields
      Please save me from insanity 23mm f2 vs F1.4r

      By crazyfields · Posted

      First post here but long time fuji shorter. I use the XT2 with the 23mm f2 / 35mm 1.4 / 16-80mm f4 I'm considering the 23mm f1.4 r (Non-WR) About me: - I shoot black and white only. - I like macro details to wide open landscapes and everything in-between. - I shoot mostly for art, intrigue and creativity of the image. My question - is the 23mm f1.4 going to offer me any meaningful difference over the f2 for the above scenarios Thanks and sorry for bringing it up again...
×
×
  • Create New...