Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

I currently have Samyang 12mm and Fuji 35mm F2.

 

I'm thinking of adding a 3rd lens and I'm thinking of getting 56mm.

 

Since 35mm is useful 60-70% of the time for portrait, I'm thinking it'll be quite redundant with the 56mm so I'm also planning to replace the 35mm with the 23mm.

 

I mostly shoot street, general family and friends event, portrait, landscape/nature/sky/sea/beach, and other mundane stuff.

 

Questions:

 

Is it wise to have my 3 lenses - 12mm, 23mm and 56mm?

Given my situation above, is 23mm better than 35mm?

 

Your thoughts are much appreciated! :)

Edited by Chadman4
Link to post
Share on other sites

It is  certainly wise to have a portrait lens which takes your subject a little further away, whether that has to be the 56 or something else is debatable. I am very happy with a number of adapted lenses and the 60mm macro too.

 

I don’t know that you can conclude that the 35 will have no longer any use because in my opinion it is a different lens from the 56-60 and it is a different lens from the 23mm too.

 

So I would actually keep the 35, add the 23 ( because the space between 12 and 35 is too big and uncovered) keep the 35 and look for a medium tele.

 

Have you considered a 60? They are cheap second hand because they are unduly branded as “ slow” while they are plenty fast for portraits. Try an adapted lens, very cheap too!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...