Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I believe you will need to give folks more information to be able to help you.

Which app are you using? Are you trying to transfer wirelessly to a computer, smart phone or tablet? Do you have wifi and bluetooth turned on in the camera and the receiving device? Stuff like that, please give as much information as you can.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m trying to transfer images to my iPhone 13, from my XT-4, using the Fujifilm app  I connect ok, but when I try to make the transfer I get this message on the camera;

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

It could be a permissions settings problem on your iPhone. Your iPhone is probably running IOS version 15 or so, the Camera Remote App is for IOS version 14 and has not yet been updated for version 15 — Apple made some security updates that can affect how files can be transferred to your phone.

Can you use the app to connect and then change settings on your camera such as shutter speed or white balance and then take a photo?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, just to eliminate any source of confusion,

I am referring to the Camera Remote app, not the one called Camera app, the names are very similar, any help for one will sound close enough to the other but be different and cause problems.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you outline the steps you are going through to move the image to your phone?

The following works for me:

1) Turn on the camera, go into the menus, select the Shooting Menu (the icon looks like a camera body) scroll down list in this menu to the Wireless Communication option and select it.

2) turn the iPhone on, go into the Settings app and then choose the WiFi option. Your Fujifilm camera should be in the list of networks, choose it. The first time you may get a  warning about joining an unknown network, ignore any password requests, etc. Note: This is an un-secured network so, make sure you are actually joining the one offered by the camera. You can turn the camera off and on a few times (navigate back to turn on the wifi option each time) to make sure you recognize it. Once it is recognized and joined it should start appearing in your shortcut list. Depending on how many other wifi networks are running in your area, the phone should be able to join the camera’s network within 10 - 15 seconds. The iPhone can be a little slow about recognizing newly turned on networks, also the camera lists its name when it starts the network, so you really do not need to do this unless things are strange that day.

3) Once the phone has joined the network, open the Camera Remote app on your iPhone and try to adjust the settings via the live shooting section, if that works, take a shot, and then it should allow you to select it and import it. This one is a little non intuitive, but after you take a shot, next to the shutter button in the app, a small image square will appear, push it and the screen will change to a listing of only the images where the app was used to take the shots. If you are shooting raw, the camera will convert the image to jpg before transfering it.

4) There is a “front” section where you can select images on the camera and the app will import them into the phone

5) There is another “front” section where the app can select images for importing.

On your iPhone, the Settings menu has a listing for the Cam Remote, open it and make sure that the option to allow Cam Remote to access the Photos app is set to all photos — this allows Cam Remote to put images into the photos folder. Also make sure the local networks option is turned on. Turning on the bluetooth option does not hurt, and is needed if you use the other bluetooth joining network approach — what I am listing is the joining using only wifi approach.

In the camera menu Connection Setting > General Settings > Resize Image …. you are given the option of sending the image at original size or having the camera resize it for smaller phone screens.

Edited by jerryy
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...