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I have had a Fuji X-E2 converted to IR, but I am getting a bit fed up with the hot spots that Fuji lenses seem quite bad at creating.  I know that opening up the aperture helps reduce hot spots but would like to use f11 or so.  I understand that you don`t get hotspots with manual focus lenses and I am wondering whether to get an old film lens or would a Samyang work, at least with a Samyang I wouldn`t need an adapter.  Any advice would be welcome. :)

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I have a modified XE1 (720nm) my experience of hotspots /lens suitability is as follows:

14 F2.8 - excellent all apertures

16 F1.4 - ok no hotspot but not as good as 14. Normal colour performance exceptional.

16-55 F2.8 - mild hotspot.

23 F1.4 - Excellent all apertures

35 F1.4 - Excellent, but only used up to F11

 

That's my experience, I hear that 18-135 is good, as is 50-140.

 

Hope this helps

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Thanks for the info, very useful. It looks like I need either a 14mm or MF lens.  To be honest I may go for the 12mm or 16mm Samyang and leave it permanently fixed t the X-E2.

I should also add to my first post that it`s false colour IR where I am having more of a difficulty, the mono stuff is a bit easier to correct than the colour, at least that`s what I am struggling with.  I`ll do more of a real world test when I get the chance and put up my findings, as it may be of use to someone else.

 

It seems I have a totally different collection of lenses to but my 35mm does not seem as good as yours.

 

I have the following:-

 

18-55mm

10-24mm

18mm

27mm

35mm f1.4

56mm

60mm

90mm (not tried yet)

 

I suppose the results may be different for different filters and also where the sun is maybe.

 

Thanks for taking the time to put your results up Jonesy

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I can also recommend the Zeiss Touit 12mm for IR.

 

Best regards,

Dieter

 

I almost bought this but went for the 10-24mm for the versatility, no regrets as the 10-24 is a great lens but sometimes I do think what if...?  I probably couldn`t justify buying the Zeiss 12mm just for IR,  I think I would have to sell the 10-24, which is an option I suppose.

Thanks Dieter.

 

Does anyone know if manual focus lenses solve the hotspot problem with IR?

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have had a Fuji X-E2 converted to IR, but I am getting a bit fed up with the hot spots that Fuji lenses seem quite bad at creating.  I know that opening up the aperture helps reduce hot spots but would like to use f11 or so.  I understand that you don`t get hotspots with manual focus lenses and I am wondering whether to get an old film lens or would a Samyang work, at least with a Samyang I wouldn`t need an adapter.  Any advice would be welcome. :)

Helios 44M-4  58mm f/2

Meyer-Optik Goerlitz Oreston 50mm f/1.8

Samyang/Rokinon 8mm fisheye & 12mm

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I have had a Fuji X-E2 converted to IR, but I am getting a bit fed up with the hot spots that Fuji lenses seem quite bad at creating.  I know that opening up the aperture helps reduce hot spots but would like to use f11 or so.  I understand that you don`t get hotspots with manual focus lenses and I am wondering whether to get an old film lens or would a Samyang work, at least with a Samyang I wouldn`t need an adapter.  Any advice would be welcome. :)

I forgot to mention various Nikon (with an adapter).  Don't get the "G" - no aperture ring-  besides the pre-G non AF are usually very inexpensive on E-bay.

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Helios 44M-4  58mm f/2

Meyer-Optik Goerlitz Oreston 50mm f/1.8

Samyang/Rokinon 8mm fisheye & 12mm

 

I have spoken to the guys that did my conversion and they have a customer who recommends the Samyang 10mm, but the 12mm not so great for hotspots.

 

But thanks for the useful info. :)

 

I probably won`t make a decision until nearer the Spring so the more info the better guys. B)

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I have spoken to the guys that did my conversion and they have a customer who recommends the Samyang 10mm, but the 12mm not so great for hotspots.

 

But thanks for the useful info. :)

 

I probably won`t make a decision until nearer the Spring so the more info the better guys. B)

You may be right about the Samyang.  The DOF is so deep that I usually don't bother to stop it down much so I may not have noticed.

 

 

Try this URL for a list to the good and the bad   http://kolarivision.com/articles/lens-hotspot-list/

 

FYI: According to LifePixel the problem arises from the internal flat black coating on the lens barrel.  Some coating materials which absorb visible light are highly reflective of IR   This may be why the X-T1 IR is still on hold.  Perhaps Fuji is researching IR absorptive coatings

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You may be right about the Samyang.  The DOF is so deep that I usually don't bother to stop it down much so I may not have noticed.

 

 

Try this URL for a list to the good and the bad   http://kolarivision.com/articles/lens-hotspot-list/

 

FYI: According to LifePixel the problem arises from the internal flat black coating on the lens barrel.  Some coating materials which absorb visible light are highly reflective of IR   This may be why the X-T1 IR is still on hold.  Perhaps Fuji is researching IR absorptive coatings

 

Nice find with the list, thanks. :)

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  • 9 years later...

I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8.

No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter.

Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now.

This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!

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