Yellerz

It isn`t clumsy at all, I have one permanently fixed to the base of mine without any issues whatsoever. It`s only a tiny plate.

You could go for a Gariz leather half case with the aluminium base, it moves the tripod hole so it`s not an issue any more. It`s a bit of a pricey solution but the cases are nice too!

Something along the lines of a Mamiya 6 or 7 would be fantastic. I would buy one.

The X-Pro1 is about much more than the OVF, Wayyy more.

Hi, Neither is weather sealed, they are both weather resistant.

I`m gutted the delivery date has been pushed back to the end of Feb. I have pre-ordered the X - Pro2 and 100 - 400mm lens with the 1.4 converter. I can`t wait to get them.

Nice find with the list, thanks.

I have to say I was definately going to order the X-Pro2 on announcement but if the high price is correct, I will be re-thinking my decision. I was looking at the 100-400mm too, but I will only buy it to go with the X-Pro2 as the focusing on my X-Pro1`s will not get the best out of it. I suspect I may not be the only one.

I am extremely pleased with my 56mm wide open. I don`t use Lightroom though.

I have spoken to the guys that did my conversion and they have a customer who recommends the Samyang 10mm, but the 12mm not so great for hotspots. But thanks for the useful info. I probably won`t make a decision until nearer the Spring so the more info the better guys.

Ha!! I think I`ve just wet myself. :lol: :lol:

Not sure a CPL will improve your dynamic range either.

I would just like to make a point that may or may not influence someones decision in what lens to buy. Adding extension tubes makes any lens they are attatched to, become less user friendly, basically you lose infinity focus and you have a very narrow focus field which varies depending on the lens used. It can be pretty frustrating when taking a tiny mini beast with an extension tube on, then spotting a butterfly posing and having to remove the tube before attempting the butterfly. Here`s a question I would like to throw in: At what point does close-up become macro? Is it 1:2 as Fuji suggest with their 60mm? Is it 1:3 that Milandros friend says that Pentax have used? Is it 1:5 that Canikon use with some of their lower priced zooms? Or something completely different. I`m guessing that lens manufacturers put macro on some lenses is that it sounds better than "not quite macro but that`s all your getting"

But that`s not what you said. You don`t need that specifically but if you`re starting from 1:1 adding tubes etc gives you even more magnification. I do, I have a Canon mpe65mm which is 5X life size. There isn`t any advantage! Who said there was?

This is also what I do. In fact when I fill (or partially fill) a card and download the images, I leave the card full, then the next time I use it forces the format. This works for me as I use them in different cameras. I would never attempt to use an unformatted card, seems like a recipe for losing your images to me.

Nice link, thank you.

Thanks for the reply quincy, much appreciated.

I would like to have a go at astro photography but don`t know much about it. I have heard many say that the Samyang 12mm is the perfect lens for this. Can anyone tell me why the Samyang is particularly suited to astro, is there something that makes this lens unique or is it the focal length that works, would my 10-24 be just as good or even the Zeiss 12mm.

1:1 does`nt mean its the size of the sensor, it means it`s life size on the sensor, ie, if it`s 10mm long in real life, it`s 10mm long on the sensor.

Calling it a macro and being a macro are two different things. Macro = 1:1

You should format all cards in camera before using them.

A couple from Leeds.

It is indeed a beautiful lens Maurice.

...and another. Cafe

I know the 56mm and 90mm are supposed to be for portraiture but I bought them for other things. Here is some examples of images shot with the 90mm. Handrail 1. Iron Railings Handrail 2.