Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to stream using my Fuji x-T2 and it works just fine until I turn my background LED coloured lights on. I get terrible banding.

I've tried turning the flicker reduction on, am using all the recommended settings when using the webcam, but nothing works

Do I just have to give up on the nice lighting?

Emma

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, sneakye said:

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to stream using my Fuji x-T2 and it works just fine until I turn my background LED coloured lights on. I get terrible banding.

I've tried turning the flicker reduction on, am using all the recommended settings when using the webcam, but nothing works

Do I just have to give up on the nice lighting?

Emma

 

dear friend !, it's not the fault of your camera !. it's because your light uses "pulse modulation" that is what causes the banding.. the same reason why there is specific lights for video which doesn't use pulse modulation or have very fast flicker speed . i am sorry that you already bought a light.. but next time.. please check that the light doesn't use pulse modulation or have a very high flicker speed. most lights these days even when they're using pulse modulation, the flicker speed is faster than the camera shutter speed.. thus it doesn't cause an issue in video.. but some pulse modulation lights still use a very slow flicker rate which is slower than your camera shutter speeds, thus the banding is clearly visible in camera !. only the camera's with "global shutter" can record without banding in every possible lighting and situations.. which is mostly cinema cameras. so try lowering the shutter speed to the minimum 48 in camera while shooting 24fps video... if there is still banding... then your light has very slow flicker rate and unfortunately can't be used for video works with usual mirrorless camera's. also if you are buying lights for video.. make sure you buy the lights which is designed for video work, they're flicker free. or if you are good at electronics or know a friend who is good at electronics, tell them to increase the flicker speed of your light, they can do it by replacing a small few circuit components of the light and it will cost very less. i hope this helps !.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I use a TECHART ring to mount Canon EF lenses on the GFX 50S-II and 100S-II, maintaining image stabilization and autofocus. The only limitation are lenses with a small rear element diameter that make it impossible to cover medium format. Fast lenses like the EF 85/1.2L or the 100-400L, however, work great.
    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
×
×
  • Create New...