Jump to content

Recommended Posts

There are not many photos around of the X-T1 underwater - so i thought i'd post some.

 
I've been diving with the X-T1 for around a month now - and its an awesome camera to dive with.  I use the X-T1 with the Fuji 14mm for wide angle and the Carl Zeiss 50mm 1:1 for Macro.  I use the Nauticam NA-XT1 housing, with 2x Inon D-2000 strobes.  The photos are full of colour and really sharp.
 
Heres a few pics from some dives in the Azores Islands - photos taken at depths of around 5m to 35 meters.  
I have plenty more if anyone is interested.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Some more pics of the X-T1 underwater with the Carl Zeiss 50mm. These were taken in the Philippines in April.  Really enjoying using this camera underwater!

 

Anemonefish:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Anemonefish:

 

Moray Eel:

 

Anemonefish:

 

Nudibranch:

 

Frogfish:

 

Frogfish:

Link to post
Share on other sites

These are great! Are these moray eels? They look uncomfortably close :-)

 

I only wish underwater housings were less camera specific. It's a lot of money for one camera that will get outdated soon.

 

Thanks!.  Yeah pretty big Moray eels, taken at night :).  They are ok into you stick a camera in their face and start firing powerful strobes, then they get a bit hissy! 

 

You tend to keep using a underwater camera setup for years - a lot of my friends use Canon G12s.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
×
×
  • Create New...