Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have a quick question regarding the XT-2.  I jumped from a Canon 40D to the XT-2 some time ago.  I love the camera and the feel and output are fantastic for me.  With that said, I have noticed that I have a harder time (on the Fuji) transferring what I see in my viewfinder to my computer screen.  In other words there seems to be a disconnect between what I see in the computer and what I remember being in the viewfinder.  I don't think it is a color or exposure issue, maybe a framing?  Not quite sure.  Do I simply need more experience with the camera?  I'm using a 18-55 for both cameras.  Thank you.

Edited by Filand
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well to begin with, are your viewfinder settings identical, for brightness and white balance etc?

Have you set up both cameras, on all the same settings, so as to make an identical simultaneous photo of something?

Because otherwise, everything is subjective.

I used Canon for decades, and loved their equipment. But Fujifilm have had me in their grasp for twenty years now ... 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Another possibility, of which I was just reminded in going out with my 2nd ("new"ish) X-T2 for a quarantine break after 1/4 year. A bit rusty. But I had just the experience as you, in terms of viewfinder vs. output to computer. Then I remembered my experience while shooting the images (using viewfinder mostly). That is this:  I was in the park shooting spring nature, bracketing 3 "film" types as I do. While  looking into the viewfinder I found everything overly vivid compared to both RL and what I imagined as the digital product.

And I've just remembered this - note to self: must correct!  With my first X-T2 I made a point of choosing the viewer mode, both the saturation level and whether it displayed the film emulation in the preview, or not. Those are settings which directly influence what you see vs. what you get. So on the off-chance this is the culprit, the good news is you can customize what you see so it better suits you.

Edited by FenFotos
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • Anyone out there have any experience/feedback on the Laowa 55 mm tilt shift? I’d be using it on the GFX 50s ii. 
    • Hi, I'm researching a gimbal to get someone as a present & they use a Fuji XS-10. I did a quick search of previous threads on gimbals but all of them seem to either get no replies or spammed by a link to an Amazon list. I'd appreciate any comments from folks who've actually used specific gimbals with the XS-10. I'm aware that some, such as certain models from Zhiyun, DJI & FeiyuTech either don't say that they are fully compatible with the XS-10 but other sites say they do work ok but some functions don't. It's quite difficult to work out which functions work & which don't. Thanks.
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

       
    • This was snapped during a lunch.  Total shooting time—a few seconds. We so often read that a proper "portrait" should be snapped with a longer than normal lens, a low ISO to get lots of detail, and have a soft light held up above the head, and slightly to the side. The key, in my opinion, is always carry a camera.  Have your camera available to capture candid, authentic photographs.  Available light, no posing.   This portrait used 2000 ISO, the lens wide open at f4, and 1/100 sec. to stop any movement.  I didn't even take time to compose—I just snapped.  I leave the "Face Detection" on unless I'm photographing a landscape or subject other than a person. The GFX100RF has the equivalent of a 28mm lens.  The large sensor renders fine detail even at fairly high ISO ratings.  And the drawing of the lens is just perfect in my opinion.  It was set to B & W, with slightly reduced sharpness and clarity (set in-camera).  Ideal for "portraits."  Now, for some subjects I will likely increase the sharpness and clarity to the normal setting.  The camera is new, and I'm still experimenting with it.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...