Also remember that "open aperture" AF metering is only available in AF-S and MF (Instant-AF) modes. Not in AF-C mode. Instead, AF-C is always using the working aperture of the shot.
This is also important for daylight shooting, as stopping down in AF-C will increase your DOF, but it will at the same time decrease the chance that the camera can still use the fast predictive PDAF instead of the slower CDAF to track your subject. So stopping down can actually mean that your action series works less well (= less keepers) than shooting the same scene with a wide open lens and less DOF.
That's why it's important to know how your camera actually really works. Since Fuji doesn't explain any of this, I spend countless hours "reverse engineering" such details, then sharing them in forums, blogs, books and workshops that cover such "secrets". It's simple news to use.
It's also important to understand the effects that Face Detection can have on AF performance. I have seen many users always keeping it turned on, which is clearly a mistake.
Other users have problems determining proper settings for AF-S and AF-C priority: Release or Focus? It depends, but as long as you exactly know what these options are doing, you can improve your keeper rate.
Not to mention users that keep their camera at factory settings for parameters such as Power Management and not enabling High Performance Mode. Terrible mistake.
And how does/can Pre-AF influence your AF performance? Are there instances where Pre-AF is actually recommended? Well, yes, but certainly not always, so don't turn it on by default.
How do Single-Point AF frames actually work in firmware 4? What's the practical difference between CDAF and PDAF, what does each of these two AF methods "like" in a subject? How can we use this information to increase AF speed and accuracy by pointing the camera at patterns and objects that either the CDAF or the PDAF are particularly fond of? In my world, that's useful information, too, so we are practicing this kind of stuff in our workshops.
What about AF zones? Yep, they are new, but how do they actually work, and how can we use this information to increase our AF keeper rate? And what's the difference between an AF zone in AF-S and one in AF-C, anyway?
Or let's talk about the new WIDE/TRACKING. Pretty much useless in concert with AF-S, but very useful in concert with AF-C. At least in some scenarios, where real "3D tracking" is required.
The more features and options we get, the more homework we have to do. For me, it's not about trusting the autofocus. It's about knowing it.
I'm a big fan of instant film so in addition to my X-T1s, X100T and X30 I also have several instax cameras, most notably the venerable 500AF and the Mini 90. I also have the Instax SP-1 Smartphone printer which uses standard instax film, as well as the impossible project instant lab for larger shots. What I can't understand is why Fuji won't release a printer for Instax Wide film. There would be huge demand from traditional photographers, and it would sure make my life easier not having to use impossible project film, which takes 40+ minutes to develop instead of the 3 minutes for Instax. It's also about a third of the price.
Can we get some support for this idea and send it along to Fuji?
On the price of the Q and Leicas in general: I'll be sticking to my XE-1 and XF 18 f2. BUT considering what people spend on other hobbies, $4-5K isn't crazy - just a matter of priority, when you consider what can be spent on golf equipment, bass boats, motorcycles (guilty), mountain bikes, antiques, or our other "addictions."
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