quincy

I think you are pretty spot on with the shutter speed thing. When the D800 (and increasingly so 800e, 810) came out, we could watch exactly what you said: the rule of 1/focal lenght did not work anymore. And with the new 5DS ( R ), it's even worse.

Thank you very much for your reply! The new system looks cool, just like I want it to be. But to clarify: this was not possible with C1P8, right? As far as I know, the only possibility to add a keyword to multiple images was to add it to one of them, then mark all of them and drag them onto the keyword (which is crap). The first method (paint custom adjustment layer, then add sharpening, add new layer, copy mask from first layer, invert, decrease clarity to remove noise) is what I'm doing all the time. For the threshold slider, what I'd like to have, would be a visible mask like in lightroom or photoshop, that shows which parts of the image will be sharpened.

I guess this was not addressed to me, and I think it is slightly off-topic, but since you asked... I suppose it's about lenses. Products below standard that need to be improved: - XF 18mm F2.0 R: cute, but optically it could be better. (and will get bigger when improved) - XM-FL: no words... it's a toy. - XF 60mm F2.4 R Macro: Optically good, but I'd like it to go to 1:1, and it could profit from a focus range limiter switch to increase focussing speed. - XF 55-200mm F3.5-4.8 R LM OIS: goooood lens, just the autofocus is a little bit slow for fast action. gaps in the Range that need to be addressed before a focal lenght that is already covered by a superb fast prime gets an addition: - Fish-eye lens in the 8 mm range. (WE have the great Samyang, but Fuji themselves have none) - Fast optically corrected rectilinear ultra-wide-angle prime lens, something like a 10 mm F/2.0 - a native tilt-shift lens, with a classic angle of view of about 83° (16 mm on APS-C) - fast tele-primes. 200/2.8, 300/4, 400/4 or a light 400/5.6 like the canon, and a 500/4.0 - not for me, but for the mainstream: a 16-65 mm F/2.8 or F/4 standard zoom - a prestige lens, like the rumored 33/1, but I admit this does not have high priority

Because it's a F/1.4 and not a F/2 lens, and is not buried half in the body like on the X100T.

I, for one, want an AF-joystick exactly where my thumb is, on the back of the camera. Oh, and global shutter (progressive readout) for stills.

If it happened yesterday and you tried to turn it on today, it did not have enough time to dry and might have been damaged even more. A few questions: 1) Did you take out the battery immediately after it got wet? 2) Do you have another battery? 3) Have you tried to recharge the battery that was in the camera when it got wet? And if so, did it charge? 4) Did you - remove the lens - open all the doors and flaps on the camera and - articulate the screen away from the body when you tried to dry it? If so, you could try to put the camera into a bowl filled with dry rice and leave it there for a week, but beware: after that, the camera will be full of dust particles and you probably will have to clean the sensor.

Oh cool, didn't expect that one! One thing that's interesting, for me at least, they adressed really all the little points of critique I had! From the previous tagging system (come on, that was crap), to the small improvements in design to stuff like adding curves & color editor in layers. What I'm curious about is the new "intelligent" brightness/contrast/saturation adjustments. So far, I often needed to touch the highlights/shadows sliders after adjusting contrast. I hope that's gone now. This makes Capture One a very versatile and mighty image editing software, and an extremely good alternative to the subscription-only adobe lightroom. /edit: two little questions: 1) Does anyone know if we can add a keyword to more than one image by selecting them all and just typing the keyword in? In C1P8, the keyword is only added to the one highlighted variant of the whole selection. 2) Will C1P9 have a "sharpening mask", like adobe has? Or is this already possible with C1P8?

I can't wait for this! Do you have any additional information?

You are confusing a lot of things. First: What you mean are MegaPixels. "MP". NOT "MB". "MB" means MegaBytes. "mega" is just a prefix that means 1 Million or 106. I'm sure you know what a pixel is, although your Fujifilm camera has a cmos sensor, not a ccd sensor. A byte is a unit of digital information, usually consisting of eight to ten bits, while a bit is defined the smallest piece of information in digital computing and can posess a value of either zero or one. The *.RAF files have a data size which is measured in MB. Those two are not the same! (Although they have a relation, namely the bit depth of the analog-digital conversion multiplied by the number of pixels) Second: johant already tried to explain it to you, and I will try again. Digital files are often "containers", which combine several different types of information in one "file", that you can see and copy. Like the *.RAF files of fujifilm or the *.CR2 files of Canon. Those RAW containers consist of the RAW data that has been read from the sensor and converted from an analog signal to digital data, the exif-data (camera type, time of exposure, lens, shutter speed and such), and often a small (or big) *.jpeg file, that is included into the RAW file, which makes it possible to "see" what is in the RAW file. This embedded *.jpeg in your RAW file has probably a size of 1920x1280 (2.5 MegaPixels). The embedded *.jpeg in Canon RAW files is usually about 3 MegaPixels. So I suppose, the software you use, or your camera (you did not tell us what exactly tells you the "size" of your files) shows the dimensions of the *.CR2 RAW data, but the dimensions of the *.RAF embedded *.jpeg.

I don't think that I have to prove anything, nor do I think that I am suspicious in any way. I have no connection whatsoever with Fujifilm, any camera store or anyone else in the camera industry. I am a scientist at heart (and in my job), and as such solely interested in facts and truth. I have no reason to defend a piece of hardware, and would certainly not try to hide any flaws. The X-T1 has a healthy amount of flaws, like most of the mirrorless cameras to date, but not being able to shoot single images in CL/CH drive mode with any combination of other settings is not one of them. When I decided to take out my camera, try some things, and post the results in this thread, the only purpose was to help you guys who seem to have a problem with your cameras. And to the day I have no idea if the OP has tried the test procedure I suggested in my first posting. ... however: I use my camera as CRAusmus described it: Set the drive mode selector to the mode I want to use (in the majority of cases single shot), and take pictures. If I put it to CH, I usually am in a situation where I keep my finger on the shutter button until the camera locks up and I curse my buffer again for being too small. (yes, I know, the X-T1 does not lock up but shoots on with the frame rate it can write directly to the card) anyway, since I like facts and data and stuff, when I tested it again previously, my shutter speed was set to 1/250th. And since the X-T1 does about eight frames per second in CH and about three frames per second in CL, you have a maximum of 1/8th or 1/3rd second to get your finger off the shutter button before the camera has to take the next frame. Probably even much less (1/10th or so). That's not much time, and if you don't come from a Canon 1D / 7Dm2 or Nikon D4s, your DSLR was not faster than that. yeah, right?

I see... tried it again, all manual (iso, shutter speed, aperture full open, focus), it's possible to get one shot in CL consistently, CH not so consistently, but doable.

I can get one shot on CL and CH. Said so on the first page of this thread.

This might help: http://dofsimulator.net/en/ Otherwise, you could always rearrange the equations found on wikipedia or in books on optics. You'll end up with something that looks like T = {2*(f^2)*g*k*Z*(f-g)}/{(f^4)-(k^2)*(Z^2)*[(f-g)^2]} or T = 2*k*Z*{g*(g-f)}/{(f^2)-[k*Z*(g-f)/f]^2} depending on what assumptions and simplifications you make. You'll then have to either calculate your object distance depending on the focal lenght to get the same magnification before you insert it into the formula, or you could replace the object distance from the formula by a term that gives you the relation between object distance, focal lenght and magnification. (Should be a simple angular relation) With T: Depth of Field k: Aperture (f-stop) Z: acceptable circle of confusion (determined by e.g. pixel size) g: object distance (from the center of your optical system, not from the sensor) f: focal lenght

On the X-T1 with the newest firmware, the exposure compensation dial changes the auto ISO behavior when aperture and shutter speed are set manually. That's how i use mine 90% of the time.

Just a short note: the 0,7 m cfd will give you exactly a tight headshot (with about 6 mm DOF at f/1.2).

Next Year, when the XF 120mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR Macro and the XF 100-400mm F4.5(?)-5.6(?) R LM OIS (WR?) are out, I'll probably buy one of those lenses or both, and the XF1.4X TC WR. The reasons are more reach for the 100-400 and a higher magnification for the 120 Macro.

- added the Meyer Optik Görlitz Trimagon F2,6 95 MM to the list and chart - changed the font colors in the chart to match the markers - changed the status of the MOG Nocturnus F0,95 35 MM to "unreleased" Thank You Patrick, I've added it to the list. I also checked the Meyer Optik Görlitz lineup and saw that the Nocturnus has a new look and is "for preorder" now. On the product page, the old lens body (the Zhongyi Mitakon Speedmaster 35mm f/0.95 - look-alike) still can be seen in the background and in smaller images, like the one that has been for sale in german onlinestores already. However, I've decided to list the lens as "unreleased" for now. I will change the status of those lenses as soon as MOG themselves say they are "available".

Get yourself the Zeiss Distagon T* 1,4/35 for the Nikon F mount (only the Nikon version has an aperture ring) and a Nikon F to Fuji X speedboster.

- changed the state of the XF 35 2.0 to "released" - added some reviews to the XF 35 2.0 - updated the chart - cleaned up some formatting problems and broken links Since the XF 35mm F2.0 R WR is already being shipped, I've marked it as released, despite Fujifilm having announced it for December 31st. Is it ok to multipost in this thread?

Misfocusing in manual mode helps, too. You can watch them appear in your evf live when closing the aperture with dof-preview activated.

The FE 1.8/55 is one of the best resolving lenses ever made, while the A7R II is (specs-wise) the best mirrorless body ever made. So that's quite a match there. If I were you, I'd stick with that. Besides the reasons milandro already pointed out (flange focal distance 18mm vs. 17.7 mm, aperture, autofocus), even if the fujinon lenses could be adapted to the sony mount, you probably would not want to, considering that the lens correction is done partially optical and partially via software.

Mine does. (sent from my Clevo W150HR using Thunderbird 43.0b1, I guess...)

I'm interested in lens adapters for Fuji too. I happen to have some nice Canon FD lenses from my film days (85 1.8, 50 1.4, ...) and I recently thought about giving them a new life on the X-T1. Is there by any chance a list of Fujifilm X-Mount compatible lens adapters? The Zhongyi and the Metabones adapters with focal reducer (would not want one without focal reducer) look both quite promising, but as you said, It's hard to tell only from a video. I didn't even see a difference.

- added teleconverter compatibility hint where it applies - added lens specs and release date for the XF 35 2.0 - split the lensbaby composer and its drop in lenses - added lensbaby composer II - added lensbaby edge 50 - changed the state of the Samyang 21 f/1.4 & 50 f/1.2 to "released" and added first reviews - updated the chart Took longer than I thought, but here it is!

If You don't want to wait for the XF 120 You might consider the Samyang/Rokinon 100 mm f/2.8 1:1 macro lens: http://www.syopt.com/en/product/photo-lenses-100mm-F2.8-ED-UMC-MACRO.php