pw-pix

That looks more like an air bubble type thing where the glass is cemented to (or just in tight contact with) an internal baffle or trim.

Do you have a different lens to test on the modified X-T4 to see if it is the camera body causing the problem? Have you cleaned to lens and body contacts and retested the 18/1.4 and X-T4 combo? Have you checked to make sure there isn't some odd AF setting configured in the X-T4 body? Accidentally gone to a bracketing mode (perhaps AF or focus stacking)? What does the EXIF data show for the images where the problem occurs?

Since the bit with the filter threads (where the hood ataches) moves in and out when focusing, you probably need to turn the camera on and make the lens barrel extend (typically when focusing on something close), then try and unscrew it.

Are you using a film simulation? I've read that using any Clarity setting except 0 on a film simulation will cause delays in processing and writing the file to the card.

FujiRumors posted recently that the company have acknowledged issues with the firmware (AF in particular) and they are working on a new version. No more detail or likely release date though.

Issues like this are common, there is a lot of commentary on YouTube about it, as well as in forums. It's the latest firmware for the 40MP bodies. The superzoom lens will be making show up more than a faster (aperture) lens too.

I can say that with V4.0 firmware in my X-T5 I continue to randomly get photos where nothing is in focus, despite the green focus confirmation appearing. This occurs with single point and single AF selected. It happens with well regarded lenses such as the XF 18mm F1.4 and the Viltrox AF 13mm F1.4.

That looks like oil or some other smear/debris on the sensor.

The times this has happened to me, it has always been the XF 27/2.8 It's to do with the focus movement being impeded with that lens, for example, if it's pressed against glass or a wire mesh fence.

There are many youtube videos on this topic, demonstrating the problem in different situations.

Perhaps a factory reset, then set up the camera the way you like again.

I have a Haoge LH-FJ35 that I use on both the XF 32/2 and XF 23/2. It has the bayonet mount around the lens front so does not occupy the filter threads. It does not vignette on the 23mm. So the bayonet must be the same on the two lenses, So the 23mm Fuji OEM hood should also fit the 35mm.

Look on YouTube, there are quite a few people stating and demonstrating that the V2 firmware was better than the current. The issues are with continuous AF and face/eye tracking, if you aren't using that AF setup then the issues are not apparent. Apparently "predictive tracking" is what has made things worse. If I were you, I'd leave the camera as it is and working as you are familiar with until your event is completed.

Affinity Photo is what a lot of people are moving to from Adobe subscription apps (Lightroom & Photoshop). It is available for Mac. https://affinity.serif.com/en-gb/photo/ I've been using the Adobe apps for so long that I'm sticking with them, even though some say they are sub-optimal for Fuji X-Trans files, I don't want a whole second workflow just for Fuji files.

I like a prime set where the focal length doubles at each step. I love the 24mm equivalent as an everyday lens. Three lens Fujinon prime set for my X-E3; 16mm f2.8, 35mm f2, 70mm f2 or f2.8 < obviously this does not exist, come on Fuji, where is our compact short tele? I've recently bought an X-T5 (to replace a Nikon D800E and f mount lenses). For this I'm aiming higher and looking for top performing lenses. Three lens Fujinon prime set for X-T5; 18mm f1.4, I hope that there will be a new 16mm f1.4 R LM WR which would be my preferred every day lens. The rest of the set look like they may be Viltrox, not Fuji, the 13mm f1.4 as an ultra wide, and the 75mm f1.2 as the short tele. I'd continue to use the Fuji 35mm f2 as the standard lens.

The X-Pro line are the revered ones, so an X-Pro 1 would be the obvious choice missing from your list, it's slow though. The X-H1 is an excellent tool, great ergonomics and versatility. Back to the original topic: I have the original 27mm f2.8 pancake, for me it is far from special. The second version is identical optically. I like its compact size, but the 40mm equiv. focal length is not one I like much, and the imaging results are just average.

I have an X-T5, and this was before the firmware update V4 that added the Reala Ace to the camera. I'm pretty sure my Lightroom was showing 20 camera matching profiles.

When I look in Lightroom, under colour profile, camera matching, I see Reala Ace as a choice. But I've been lead to believe that those are Adobe's versions, not the actual Fuji simulations. Is your Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom up to date? Lightroom Classic V 13.4 Camera Raw V 16.4

Hello, I'm new here, but a long time Fuji user. I've had an X-E3 since 2018 and also have the XF 16mm F2.8, XF 18mm F2, XF 23mm F2, XF 27mm F2.8, and XF 35mm F2 lenses. I just lashed out on an X-T5 and the XF 18mm F1.4. By all accounts a premium lens in the latest LM series from Fujifilm. I'm finding that the aperture ring on the 18mm F1.4 is so loose that it will not stay where I set it. The slightest brush against the strap, or clothes or my hand is enough to move it (sometimes by a whole F stop. I've had a look around on forums and have noted some people say it is looser than the other two new F1.4 lenses (the 23mm and 33mm LM), however mine is so loose that it makes the lens annoying to use and results in shots at incorrect apertures. I shoot almost always in aperture priority and have appreciated the aperture rings on the XF lenses. Has anyone gone back to a camera shop and/or Fuji about this issue as a warranty problem? If so what was the outcome. I can't believe that my aperture ring is supposed to be so loose.