pw-pix

The Laowa 65mm macro seems well regarded, I'm sure it would serve you well. Another potential choice would be the Fuji 30mm macro, but it would have a closer working distance and might make lighting your subjects harder.

Send it in for repair, it's broken.

You may have to wait for next Easter and try again then.

I sometimes use a power pack (battery) to charge the battery in the camera via the USB connection.

T stops are a more accurate measure of a lenses light transmission, used for cinematography. You might have the camera in movie mode, or some other condition/setting has changed the display from F stop to T stop.

As BobJ notes, it probvably easier and better to stich multiple shots when you process the photos. Lightroom is easy and provides very good results. I'm sure there are other photo editors that can do it too. You'll get a bigger and better file from stitching multiple raw files.

In the Camera RAW module, Profile, Browse, look for the Fuji film simulations... I'm assuming you are already doing that, as it sounds like you see other Fuji profiles, I don't know why the ones you want are missing.

Factory reset of the camera. Repeated cycling of the flash beween up and down position. It's quite likely a fault, the microswitch or other sensor for flash position has failed or is jammed/stuck. You might need to send it in for repair.

More modern phones with USB-C seem to be able to do backups from camera/card reader to external USB drive with no need for a computer. I haven't tried this personally. https://petapixel.com/2025/05/11/no-laptop-no-problem-how-to-back-up-photos-in-the-field-with-your-smartphone/

The burst speed of the shutter is set by the CL and CH control on top of the camera, it is unrelated to the focus mode setting on the S C M control. The focus speed is not related to the burst speed setting. You might have been joking, but your post adds confusion.

Hmmm, I've noticed on my XF 150-600mm too, it's as if the profile corrections in Lightroom aren't properly matching the lens. I've not noticed it on any other lenses I own and use.

Do you have a film simulation in use for jpg? Does it have a Clarity setting? Any clarity setting other than 0 is know to cause processing/write delays when shooting jpg.

Don't use eye tracking for street. Just use a small area or single point.

Assuming still photography of a general nature; Aperture priority, set aperture to F8 or F5.6 ISO set to Auto ISO, range base to 6400, minimum shutter speed 1/100 sec Viewfinder screen set to show picture effect/exposure, histogram, blinking highlights and exposure information Focus set to AF-S with single point or area with 9 points Go out, make photos, see what's working and what's not, adjust to your own liking and use case.

Take it back to where you bought it and ask for repair/replacement, it seems to be faulty.