Sany

Hey @Greybeard, yes it did change when i half press the shutter

thank you - yes it helps @Sleeping Dog

Thank you - that helps!

I have a Fujifilm X-S10 and I have saved custom film recipes to the 4 custom buttons. My question is - if I want to slightly modify whilte balance after coming into an unexpected lighting condition, I open 'Q' menu to modify the White balance. This actions will it replace my original recipe saved in custom setting or for the moment I modify this but when i again start the camera afresh, it will still retain the original recipe and setting or my Q menu modification would have permanently applied on the recipe as I dont want to go and again reset to my original setting as I had originally.

I tried to use Kodachrome 64 recipe and it worked as desired. I am still new to these recipes and hence I have a question. As the night fell and the ambient turned yellowish with candescent bulbs - I see all the pictures were yellowish and brown and colors could be faintly noticed. My question is, are all these recipes made for day time shooting only unless specified? So if you want to use on certain darker lighting conditions - 1. Do I need to change the White Balance to Auto? 2. By doing so, will this not be a Kodachrome 64 anymore?

Has anyone tried running Fujifilm X Raw Studio software on Windows laptops running on the new Snapdragon X processors (ARM) - I believe these laptops are snappy and faster. So I am interested to learn about any compatibility issues on these machines as it is early days for ARM processor Windows machines and not many applications are available for these processors, however most of the big names like Adobe, Affinity etc have all developed a ARM compatible versions. We also note that these ARM laptops internally will run some process to make all apps run but with some sort of issues. So I am expecting the same here for Fujifilm X Raw Studio as there is no specific version availble for the ARM processors yet.

@infoschuerfer when you have time could you please explain how you did the auto ISO adjustment while you were in manual mode as explained by you this...."And it basically works well. I was just able to shoot a black raven in front of a bright sky by using exp comp plus 2 2/3 and thereby raising the iso to 2500 within the range...."

Didn't check the metadata but on the screen this is what I see.

Any updates to this?

Hi Please help me with this question. I assume the purpose of the auto ISO range listed along with the other iso readings (ie., Auto1, Auto2, Auto3) is for the camera to chose one ISO reading per photo depending on our other settings (shutter speed and aperture) but within a particular range. So I set the readings ISO Base as 200, ISO Limit 3200 under 'Auto1. When I start taking pictures, it always clicks pictures with an ISO of 3200 and does not go below even at good lighting situations. Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong? I am sure the camera will select the best ISO automatically.

Hi Members Do we have a database of fuji lenses and their reviews somewhere in this forum? I remember from my pentax days long ago on the pentaxforum, there is a lens database where it holds the specs, reviews and sample photos and a rating scale on several factors like sharpness, bokeh etc., connected to that particular lens. So was curious to see if something in that line exists. Another - can anyone share a link to comparison between XF 23mm f2 and XF 27mm f2.8 if you have come across on something like that.

Hi If not too late can we also request that they bring the RAW studio to ipads. Currently it is only available for desktops and laptops on windows and mac. Thanks S

I noticed mainly outdoor - also i am not sure, I explained it properly. Let me take a small video and share it here.

I am using 23mm f2.

Thanks @cpX for these. I will see how they look. @jlmphotos thanks, yea I do like the size - the reason why I asked the question was to see if I could anything in the range of 23mm (so it will be like a 35mm Full frame FOV). I will continue to follow the 27mm until I am convinced :). Is there a separate thread somewhere for sample photos for 27mm F2.8 - I am sure there is. I have seen images based on subjects (forum). If there is not, it will be great to create a thread for each lens. I have seen this in 'Pentaxforums'. This gives an idea of the capability of the lenses as they are handled by amateurs, hobbyists to professionals. I recently created one for 23mm f2.

I am able to follow all the settings that we feed in to setup a custom film simulation setting except for the last one which is 'Exposure Compensation'. I am assuming that we will add this on the spot. And since this is sometimes a range (like +3/4 to +1 or -1/2 to -1), I want to be assured by experts here to confirm the process that I follow below: 1. Create a custom recipe 2. Dial a basic exposure of the scene in the way we want the outcome (sometimes underexposed exposure or high note style with some overexposure) 3. Now we dial in the 'exposure compensation' as required by the recipe - so if i am already overexposed as in item 2, and the recipe requires an 1/4 additional overexposure, I add it in? Is this correct - I am fully not sure on this. Please advice. thanks

I am trying to add the stabilization on/off into quick menu but IS option for video shows up but not the photo IS. Is there a way to add it to Q menu, i would like it to be there so i can quickly switch off and on depending on my tripod use and handheld situations.

Other than XF27mm - are there any pancakes out there between 23mm and 35 mm regardless of Fuji or third party?

Hi @sumonw, I agree. The reason why it came up in first place was based on using a custom film simulation. For some of the film simulation, the ISO min and max sensitivity is provided in auto. So during these situation and while on back button focus - I noticed the ISO displaying the max value. That is when a suggestion here also suggested connecting it to the left side dial to replace the standard film sims. Yes now I got the answer from the above discussions - why the 'exp compenstion' is not getting assigned while on manual mode even though we assign this in the setting. The strange thing is the second option for the left dial says 'Exp compenstion while on manual mode' is what confuses which misled by thinking.

I completed it - thanks for the survey. Much needed,

I can understand the frustration and I believe this is how it is. 'Pal2tech' has expressed his frustration in his youtube channel. What surprises me is that the video is made long ago and any company would have tried to fix this. But I see this is not the case for a popular company like Fujifilm. I still see this connecting issue haunting us. It happens to me all the time. When I connect to the remote app, I am able to use the app to execute the shutter like a charm. But you take a while on other chores in your camera or on your phone and return back it will try to connect again. This is terrible in an era dominated by software, is Fujifilm running short of software engineers? Or maybe there is some workaround that has fixed this issue!? (which I never knew). Pal2tech has suggested a faster way to connect to the remote app from the 'preview photo screen'. Try that video, you might learn something new. Anycase the issue and frustration remains.

Background: I am on back button focus mode. This is more evident in high dynamic range scenes. When I try to focus on one of the points - once in the lit up area object or on the object in the darker zone. When I press my back button to focus, for a fraction of second the bright area in the scene stutters / and kind of over exposing action (when i press the focus button) and when I try to focus on the shade area - the focus flickers for a while hunting focus, but it does the same action of flickering during this. (My back button 'AF ON button' is set to lock both focus and exposure). Just wondering why this happens - why should it do that stutter. Sometimes, highlight area flickers as though trying to let us know that it over exposed (but the histogram does not indicate any clipping).

Hi - I am stuck here. I tried to assign the left dial to 'exp compensation when in M mode' option instead of the film sim. However, when i set it and made sure I am in 'M' mode. Still when I dial, only the film sims come back. I check the thrid option 'NONE' which works as well. For some reason, the exp compensation is not doing its job, maybe another setting somewhere is disabling this!?

Thanks @Greybeard no I have back button focus enabled and removed half press to focus from the shutter release. So this means the actual ISO captured is not displayed before the capture!? I will try the q button and see how easy it is for the film sims to sit there.

Hi both - as extension to this question, I noticed the same limitation when I tried to keep Auto ISO, when I set, for example, max sensitivity to say 6400 - the ISO gets stuck at 6400. Since it is in Auto, I expected the number to flux between the lowest 160 and 6400 depending on the exposure. Please correct my understanding. As suggested by @CatsAreGods - I assume this is the only way to then move the ISO to shift between the min sensitivity and max sensitivity. Is this how we should handle the ISO when we put it on Auto? Second question: When I assign the left dial for this instead of the Film Sims - where can I go to find film sim as alternative without going into the IQ setting? Can Q menu help to dial quickly between various film sims?