SimonW

I don't know the XT50 but face and subject detect are focus settings and probably focus area is still set to wide/tracking. You might try changing it centre point. Not that I'm sure why it should affect photometry (exposure) settings.....

WOW, Yes, you are of course correct. I've turned them on now for both s and m and cont, and now it works exactly as it should. Like most things, simple when you know how. I didn't know that setting existed, and can't think why anyone would want it turned off, nor remember ever doing so. Anyway, thank you so much abmet for helping.

This video posted today mentioned this. HEREhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1x_VNHE0TqE It didn't quite address my problem, but it demonstrated how a half-press on the shutter button should reveal the actual iso measured rather than the set maximum. For me this does not happen. However, it did make me do some testing - and quickly found an answer:- The half press does not work, but the AELock button does indicate the iso value it locks to. Obvious really! I've still not figured out why neither of my cameras do it with a half press on the shutter, maybe I've changed a setting somewhere on both of them that's caused it. If I ever find out what I'll post it here.

pw-piz, Thanks for responding, but perhaps you mis-understood. My auto iso is set with upper and lower limits and it works perfectly. EXCEPT that while composing the shot and adjusting shutter speed and aperture it does not tell me the iso it will actually use - it displays the maximum it might use (which is my chosen maximum). Only after I take the shot can I see the actual iso it used. I would have liked to know in advance, but I guess if I've set my max and min limits as I wish then it really doesn't matter. It's the same on both my Fuji cameras and I suspect it's the description in the manuals that's incorrect.

The XT5 and X100vi manuals both say that if the camera is set to auto ISO the chosen ISO will be displayed while half-pressing the shutter. I've seen some posts which confirm this, but on both my cameras the display shows only the set maximum even when the preview shows the shot will be over exposed even at the lowest possible ISO. Is possible some setting for something else affects this behavior?

Try cleaning the electrical contacts on both the lens and the camera.

If you have the Fuji-X app on your mobile phone and link it to your camera (which lets you remotely control the camera and copy photos from it to the phone) the app will tell you whenever there's an update, and if you then connect the camera it'll download and install the update. So there's no need to either keep looking out for new versions or knowing where they are. Simon

In Windows PCs the backup is saved in folder Documents>Fujifilm>Conditions. If you open this folder in a window before you start the backup you'll see the backup file appear in the window. It's almost instantaneous. It's a confidence booster. I don't remember X-Aquire giving any indication that backup has completed. The backup files include the date and the camera make so if you have two Fuji cameras they all go in the same folder. New backups do not over-write the older ones so you can restore an older one if you should so wish. Simon

OK, thanks Greybeard. I'll try to see if I can talk to Fuji themselves.

Hi Greybeard, yes, it seems a great camera. But perhaps you could go menu function button setting and try to change the ael/afl button from on (hold) to switch (toggle) and see if you can. The manual says how. If you can I must have a faulty camera. I've tried immediately after a complete reset back to factory condition. Cheers, Simon

Q1: Is it possible to set this button to toggle on/off rather than having to hold it down? Q2: Is it possible to have AFL and AEL on separate buttons? In both cases, if yes then how? I meant to say re Q1. The manual page 298 states that the button can be set to toggle, but I've found that on my camera it cannot. The button is on the list but selecting it gives no options at all. (My firmware has updated to V1.01 already. I normally use back-button focus and muscle memory makes it difficult to change back to half-press shutter focus). Simon

I've used 18-135 lenses for many years, from 35mm film days and love them for general purpose use, so of course I've had the Fuji version (along with other less versatile lenses) since I bought into Fuji. The only thing I'm not fully happy with is the lack of an aperture ring. On my XT5 I can check all exposure settings bar aperture without switching it on. I'm very pleased with the quality and results from the 18-135 but the thought that the 16-80 would solve that problem sometimes nags me. On the other hand I think I'd find I need to change lenses to my 70-300 much more frequently, and perhaps to carry that "just in case" where I previously wouldn't. Just wondering if anyone else has similar thoughts..... Simon

Having completed the 24th May firmware update on both my cameras I was looking forward to using their long-awaited new App which I believed would work much better that the old one with my smartphone. And now I'm very sad and extremely disappointed - I cannot even download it from the Google Play Store. It says my phone isn't compatible with it! It's a fairly recent one, with android v10 and yes - the description for the App does say this version is not supported. I've found I cannot update the phone and I'm not about to spend out on a new one so I'll just carry on as before. But I though others on this forum might find my post useful. Simon

Hi Jerry, I have four XF lenses, two with constant aperture, two with aperture which changes with zoom. I've used them all in earnest with good results indoors and outside, and testing has been inside looking out of a window. Of course understand about the "A" switch. I knew and understood about using the command dial to get in-between shutter speeds but in honesty never felt the need for it. Occasionally during testing I've been able to deliberately set some wildly "wrong" values which appeared in preview to over-expose yet resulted in a very under-exposed shot in playback. But it's never happened in normal use, and was probably due to me switching to review mode or changing a setting before a 30 second exposure had completed, or something like that. It didn't worry me. As I said, I can live with this minor annoyance because so much else about this system is great. Life's too short to continue wasting time and worrying about it. Thanks for trying anyway.

Now there's a thing. The test you suggested is exactly what I described above when I found changing the aperture above the top (f/number) let me control the shutter (* see below) but did not show the aperture setting change to match. I thought it kept showing f3.5 in red (the limit on my Fuji 18-135 lens) but had not tried zooming, and yes, the indicated figure does change to show the wide open figure for each zoom range as you say. BUT it does not display the actual aperture in use. It's obvious that it must be changing to match the shutter speed setting, as the the viewfinder brightness and histogram remain virtually the same. So your last paragraph MIGHT * be incorrect - it's indicating the aperture is wide open when in fact it isn't. * But I've just now noticed I can only control the shutter over a very limited range. In this test it went only between 1/80 and 1/200 sec. Ie. just over one stop, and it might be the resultant viewfinder brightness change isn't noticeable. I don't like being beaten by tech, but this is becoming more trouble than it's worth. I'm very pleased with all my Fuji kit and can learn to live with this minor inconvenience.

Hi Jerry, I'm sorry my post was already too long-winded, but to me it seems a very complicated issue, and in fact there's a last Gotcha I've not mentioned yet. But to answer your question: By exposure I mean the particular settings of ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed actually set on the camera either fully manually or by one or more of the three being set to auto. My second paragraph describes the full manual situation, when neither AEL or exposure compensation would do anything, and all is exactly as it should be. Perhaps my exclamation mark confused you. I used it only to highlight that my original problem was the AF-L button not working, which has led to much more fiddling with settings. My third paragraph shows that the AEL button works as it should in an auto-exposure mode. That is, the camera chooses the shutter speed. What I'd like to do is set a fixed shutter speed (and ISO) and set Aperture to Auto, and it seems I cannot easily do this. In fact it can be done, though it's not easy to see: With those settings the front dial can turn the aperture down to it's smallest (ie largest number) then one further click changes the viewfinder indicator indicator to red with the largest aperture (f/3.5 with this lens). At this point the rear dial starts to work and controls the shutter speed, and the AF-On and AEL buttons toggle as they should. The Gotcha is that in this mode there is no indication of the aperture the camera has chosen, which means that in some circumstances the depth of field might be unacceptable. And if I could see the setting I'd change the ISO to something more suitable. I still think/hope there must be a much simpler way. (Since I started in the late 1960s until recently I never used anything but manual. Probably just go back to what I know.....)

Hi Barry, That's a good combination. I too love my pancake XF27 2.8 ll. I've used it a great deal on my X-S10, and that is just perfect as a discrete "pocket and party" camera (especially with its occasionally useful built in flash). That is the reason I couldn't bear to part with it after I bought the X-T5. Simon

Hi Robnsue, (I’m friends with a couple, Rob & Sue, but they’re Olympus users). Anyway, I tend to agree with you that it’s more likely a configuration error, but now after more playing with settings I’m more confused than ever. When I found that problem I was using the top plate control knobs, but I thought it might be less confusing to set up my X-T5 to match my X-S10 as close as possible. That is, shutter speed on the rear command dial (with the shutter control knob set to T) and aperture on the front command dial (with the aperture ring on the lens set to A. With the ISO dial set to a fixed value (400) it all works OK. That’s Full Manual. The three exposure settings are shown in the viewfinder, and the AF On button toggles AF-Lock on and off as it should. (Yes, that is AF-Lock). But now it’s the AEL button which doesn’t work at all! If I change only one thing – The shutter control knob from T to A, then both AF-On and AEL buttons do exactly what I want, but of course that’s now in Aperture Priority mode and I can no longer control the shutter speed except by using the exposure compensation dial. I do want to be able to use full manual (either with the knobs or the dials, whichever works) to set focus and exposure, lock them and recompose (sometimes for several shots over a period of time). Surely that must be simple to achieve, but I’m still stumped. Last resort: If it can't be done I guess the command dials plus the exposure compensation will in effect let me lock exposure and focus, which doesn't seem possible with the knobs. Simon

Greybeard, thank you for trying but I do have the manual and of course that was the first thing I looked at. Robnsue, thank you also for your input. It seems you've almost understood my problem and I've now re-checked your suggestions. The Pre-AF is not turned on, and re-assigning AF Lock to the F1 button gets the same behaviour. To confirm, it behaves exactly as it should if set for back-button focusing with the shutter-AF switched off. But although it is clearly set to Toggle On/Off (as in Greybeard's shot of the manual, it does not remain locked while not pressed. (The viewfinder indicator showing it locked just goes out as soon as the button is released). As I said, I'm almost certain it used to work exactly as it should because I would have set it to match my X-S2. I backed up the settings shortly after I bought it, as well as a couple more times since. So I tried to restore from the first backup but unfortunately found I could not. I believe that is a consequence of a later firmware update. Restoring from a later one worked OK but made no difference to this issue. That's why I wonder if it's due to an error in the new firmware.... Simon

On my X-S10 the AF On button is set so that I press it once to lock focus to that distance, and it remains fixed (as indicated by a viewfinder icon) until I press it a second time. This is very useful rather than focus & recompose every shot. The manual for my X-T5 says it can be set the same way. I'm now very familiar with the settings, and it should be simple, but I cannot set it like that. The button will hold the focus fixed only as long as it's held down, no matter what settings. I fiddle with. I'm almost certain I set like that soon after purchase (to match the other camera) but I'm not sure when I last made use of it. My firmware is fully up to date (v1.03 February 2023). Is it possible this problem is caused by an error in the firmware update? (Just in case it's a lens issue I tried with different lenses with no result - and the obvious suspect: Auto+Manual focus is switched off, nor am I using Back-Button focus at present). Any suggestions welcome? Simon

Yes, it works fine. But from memory l needed to assign it to the control knob. The option choice allows for it to select film simulation in manual and exp comp in auto.

Sandy, using exposure compensation in full manual mode would make no sense - just adjust speed, aperture or iso as required. But if you have iso scrolled down to an auto setting then exp comp should be available. Simon