Rose

Meyer Görlitz Orestor 50 f 1.8.  f 2.8
 
this lens costed peanuts at a charity shop... 

Love your post-processing on this one - more on the flower than on the leaves

The 60mm f/2.4 goes to 1:2 and the image quality allows for considerable cropping. I also have my old 55mm f/2.8 MicroNikkor that works just fine and I expect does 1:1 or better. It came with a substantial extension tube which also works fine. That said, I am not doing scientific work, so I use the 60mm—which is also a superb general photography lens.
 
Now that Photoshop CC2015 has implemented HDR in Adobe Camera RAW, it is used in a high percentage of my work. Gone are the haloes of a decade back that justifiably drove many people away from HDR. Now the results simply look normal, albeit with significantly more highlight and shadow detail. Unless I want to manually adjust exposure, my X-Pro1 only auto-brackets ±1.0EV, which is certainly useful, but I would prefer a longer range. This was shot about a month ago, and you can see that even with such a short bracket, I was still able to hold a lot of detail in both the clouds and the forest. Not even a hint of a halo!
 

Yes. For example, with a 16mm tube on the 56mm the distance you can focus in is like 8-10 inches (that's a total guesstimate). If the front of the lens is more than 10" from the subject you can't focus anymore. Here are two pictures with the camera set up at the min and max focus distances. 


Also, I bought the generic tube set (Fotasy is the brand) instead of the Fuji branded ones. While I would imagine the Fuji's are better built the off brand was under $30 for both an 11mm and 16mm tube. Since they're really just a spacer I couldn't justify the extra $170 for the two Fuji's.
 
 
It has been a long time since I have used it but I don't remember it being too complicated.
 
 
I would go with a couple of adapters:
A Canon EF to Fuji X - I have gleaned from this forum (I forget who mentioned it) that the Canon EF mount has one of the shortest distances to the sensor of any system. This means almost any lens can be adapted to it. I would buy this one and then buy the small adapters to Canon EF for each lens you wanted to adapt. A Canon FD to EF - to adapt you Canon 50 A Nikon to EF - obviously for the Nikon  If you just buy the normal adapters then there is nothing stuck between the lens and the sensor so no image degradation or light loss. The point of the adapter is partly to get the lens far enough from the Fuji sensor that you can focus with it.
 
Mike

I use the 18-135 and am very happy with it. Something not mentioned is that it works well with the Fuji extension tubes for macro shots. I have the MCEX-16 extension tube. Fuji lens vary in this ability. It can create a nice bokeh and sharp centre image but, of course you loose long focus. It takes awhile to get the zoom/focus/distance from subject equation worked out but the results are excellent when you do. If you are into flowers and botanical subjects this is a combo to consider. Yes, a dedicated 1:1 macro like the one coming would be great but most people don't need 1:1. The current 60mm macro is only 1:2 so its a stretch calling it a macro.
 
Just my experience.

Hi m2usa,
 
I did purchase the 18-135.  My first images disappointed me.  Did some set up test shots and I just wasn't happy with it.  I sent it back and exchanged it for another copy of the same. Test shots were back to what I had expected from Fuji. It is slower and a bit more sluggish on the low light focusing. So far I'm happy. Will post a few images later.
Mike 

Zeiss makes a 50mm macro for Fuji that is 1:1. Rokinon/Samyang make a 100mm f/2.8 as well (probably not made for the APS-C).
 
I have used extension tubes a little (mostly with the 56) and it works fine but is a bit of a hassle since the focus range only covers a small area (sometimes less than an inch it seems).
 
HDR can be done with any camera. Just bracket some exposures and merge then in Photoshop or some third party HDR software like Photomatix.
 
MIke

For HDR I use the an accessory called the TriggerTrap. TriggerTrap connects your camera to a smartphone and allows you to do all sorts of neat tricks including HDR. I find it useful as the bracketing (at least in my X-E2) only allows for 3 shot HDRs with one stop range. TriggerTrap allows you to do just about anything including long exposure HDRs. I have also used TriggerTrap to set up time lapses, high speed photography using a sound sensor, and as a normal trigger/bulb timer. 

Fuji X-M1, Rokinon 100mm macro, two Fuji EF-X20 flash heads, F9, 1/250, handheld