BobB

I use primes only. 18mm 1.4 R LM WR and the 33mm 1.4 R LM WR. are the two I use most and what I would consider my 'ideal' kit. I mainly shoot flowers and architecture. I also have the 56mm 1.2 R WR (used only occasionally) and 80mm 2.8 macro (used often for my in-studio flower photography. I rarely carry it out in the field due to its size and weight.) The newer Fujinon primes are hard to beat IMHO.🙂 Using all the above on an X-T4.

If I swing out my LCD screen all looks well. But, if I invert the screen the display will be upside down! After a while, I will also get screen flicker. Does anybody know what is going on? Is there a setting I have set incorrectly? Or, it this a defect? Thanks for your help.

Do you format your SD cards in the camera or on your computer. It is highly recommended that you always format cards in the camera, not the computer. Beyond that, I have no idea why your RAW files are suddenly corrupt. What post-processing software do you use?

I'm confused...is your criticism of the X-T4 or of your Gitzo plate? Where would you have designed the battery door? Or, how would you have designed the Gitzo plate? BTW, my KES L-bracket designed for the X-T4 doesn't block anything so maybe you should check that out.

Is the measurement of the minimum focus distance (or minimum object distance as Fuji refers to it) of a Fuji lens measured from the front plane of the sensor? Their specs don't specify where the measurement is taken from. Thank you.

I can't give you an exact number other than to say when I took a 50 image bracket a few days ago with my 80mm macro and X-T4 (using the manual bracket setting), I recall it was done in under 5 seconds. In other words, fast.

The printed manual will tell you what settings are customizable and what your choices are. Spend some time with it. As far as recommended settings, the camera is yours and only you know what works for you. Another person's settings are irrelevant. IMO, you will be much more satisfied learning the camera and all of its capabilities rather than looking at other people's setups. You learn by doing (a wise man once told me.) It is a great camera and I have spent much time customizing mine. And, it has been fun! Enjoy. BTW, I also came from Nikon to Fujifilm.

Generally, Auto ISO is not recommended for video for the very problem you are having. The solution is to dial in an ISO setting based on the shooting conditions at the time. Sorry if this is not the answer you were hoping for 🙂

I use my left eye to look through the viewfinder. For me, that means the AF-On button is too far inward (very close to my nose.) Therefore, I remapped the rear command dial to be my AF-On button. This has worked well for me. YMMV.

Right now, zooming in and out of a photo in Playback mode is controlled by rotating the rear command dial. I am always inadvertently pressing the dial while rotating it which resets the zoom. Very frustrating to say the least.😬 Can this function be changed to a button? I could not find an answer to this in the manual. Thank you. Bob

You don't give us much to go on here to provide you with a specific answer. Why are you wanting to switch brands? If it is to improve your photos, then save your money. YOU control that, not the camera. Any recent camera can produce marvelous photos in the right hands. What do you photograph? That will determine your optimum lens choice. Why did you choose the 55-200 and 16? Hopefully you will respond back with more information. Best regards.

Improve AF Face/Eye Detect (get it closer to the Sony and Canon performance) would be my answer to your question.

I am using a Kirk BL-XT4 L-bracket. It has a notch cut out in the side bracket to clear the flippy screen. You can swing the screen out (although not all the way parallel with the back of the camera) and rotate it about 45 degrees up and down. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1573430-REG/kirk_bl_xt4_l_bracket_for_fujifilm_x_t4.html As an added bonus, it has a QD socket on the bottom (very handy for attaching a strap.) Arca-Swiss compatible and clearance for the doors. I like it.

I am in the US and my X-T4 says "Made in China", not Japan. Purchased two months ago from B&H in New York City.😕

I am somewhat new here and to Fujifilm...who is "DRMi"? Thanks.

Well, how about that? It is there after all (not zebras, but at least blinkies.) Thank you Greybeard.

I think you are correct. The histogram would work just fine. Old habits can be tough to break 🤪

I agree. This is a serious omission. I think every other camera I have used has this capability. Hopefully Fujifilm will add this someday via a firmware update. I need to find a way to make this suggestion to Fuji. Thanks for your reply.

Can highlight warning (zebras) be set up in Still mode? I cannot find a setting for it. I can only find highlight warning in Movie mode. Thanks.

Thank you folks for your replies. Very helpful.

Anybody????

I am new to the Fujifilm system. I use back-button focus (AF ON button.) When my AF switch is set to C and I want to continuously focus on a moving subject, do I need to keep holding the AF ON button down while taking multiple shots to keep my subject in focus? One more question - I know that the X-T4 Drive Switch has an HDR function that automatically takes a selected number of images and the camera processes them into one image. Is there a way to take the multiple exposures without the camera processing them into one image so I can that myself in post processing? Thanks for your help. Bob