kolbphoto

I'm not sure - is it a cityscape or seascape image
Shot with X-T1 and Samyang 12mm during a walk in this beautiful city.
 


 
 

First day out with my X-pro2 and 14m

I'm lucky enough to own two lens kits a prime setup (14, 35 & 56) and zoom setup (16-55 & 50-140). My personal experiences when travelling are essentially as follows...
 
When travelling with my wife and being touristy the 16-55mm is perfect. Yes it's a bit heavy, but the IQ is great and the range means I don't need to take any other lenses or worry about changing lenses. It's WR sealed too which is a bonus. I used this virtually exclusively (little bit of 50-140mm but we'll get to that) on a trip to San Fran and Yosemite and another trip to Amsterdam. The 50-140mm, whilst it's a great lens i find it a bit heavy and normally lives in a hotel safe and is used for specific locations, often for shooting Panos.
 
When I've got more time and have time to shoot on my own, the light prime set up in a Billingham bag works great. I used this set up in Rome and recently in Morocco and didn't miss the zooms to much, apart from when taking a tour in Marrakesh which meant I was limited on lens change opportunities and therefore lost some shots.
 
The one lens I'm tempted to get, which would really add to a travel kit i think is the 90mm f2. I've used it a bit and really enjoyed it and as a stand in for the 50-140mm would be great for travel. I think a 16-55mm & 90mm would be a super versatile travel kit for everything apart from treks. For treks, you'd want to throw in the 50-140mm instead in my opinion, and maybe the 100-400mm if it's wildlife images you're after.

Hi,
 
i am in the middle of my fantastic adventure to Sweden|Norway "Arctic Horizon".
I am on the road for 5 weeks from Germany to the north.
 
If you like have a look at my blog...
www.flipbook.schaake.de
 
Cheers
Michael
 

next village

I'm going further with my posts ... 
 
A famous and wonderful view of the Isle of skye, the Neist Point lighthouse.
 
6) Neist Point - X-T2 - Fujinon 10-24

 
Have a nice evening.

Hello,
 
We continue with another shot taken in the famous Quiraing Rang in Skye, during sunrise.
 
5) X-T2 - Fujinon 16-55 2.8  LM WR @  F10
 

Hello,
 
Something else taken on the Glen Etive, a nice small waterfall with a view on the scottish highlands :
 
4) X-T2, fujinon 10-24 f4
 

 
 
 

3) Sunset in Elgol, with the honeycomb rock in foreground and the red cuillin range in the background - X-T2 - Fujinon 10-24 @f10
 

Hello everybody,
 
I was recently in scotland for 9 days and took some shots with my X-T2 and want to share some with you
 
1) the forth bridge near Edinburgh - X-T2 - fujinon 10-24 @f10

 
2) typical scottish mystic light - X-T2 - fujinon 16-55 2.8 LM WR @f10

 
Other images will follow as soon as they are ready to be published
 
See you.

Minolta 28/2.8 MD on X-E2 ...
 

Wald ... by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr

Pioneer Cemetery...
 
 

12) Skogafoss waterfall

 
13) Hverir geothermal area

 
14) 

Northern Karelia
 
Owl island by crunch_tone, on Flickr
 
 
Foggy morning by crunch_tone, on Flickr

Scotland
 

I wouldn't delete any image before seeing it on the big screen back home.

At the Gulf of Finland 2 by crunch_tone, on Flickr
It was foggy and windy day

Edinburgh City Centre as the lights come on by Chris Mitchell, on Flickr

Paris
X-T1, XF16-55mm @f4

Maribor, 3 photo HDR edited in LR.
X-T10 with xf35/1.4, Hoya ND1000
DSCF5227-HDR by Matjaz Malensek, on Flickr

Another reason I just love the X-T1. 10-24mm ISO 6400
 

 
Click up

I like having 2 bodies and the 23 and 56 on them... switching cameras is much faster than switching lenses...
 
I prefer the primes when I have time. On the other hand, I just purchased the 16-55. The 16-55 and 50-140 on 2 bodies covers a wide range of situations.

With HDR you can, broadly speaking, follow one of two approaches once you have combined the source files together (this is relatively software-independant, as long as they get the job done):
 
- you can "develop" the 32bit file with an HDR software (selecting the option for the "automatic tone" in the Lightroom screen when you join the files, or using an external editor like Photoshop or Photomatix).
99% of the time you'll get the HDR look or at the very least the digital look (digital look = almost no shadows, low contrast, high saturation, "crunchy" details everywhere)
 
- you can "develop" the 32bit file in Lightroom (without first selection the option for the "automatic tone" in Lightroom when you join the source files)
This is not technically an HDR, but an exposure fusion. You'll still get the benefits of a vastly extended dynamic range, but the results will look way more natural.
 
It comes down to your personal taste. As for me, I despise the HDR look, it literally makes my eyes hurt. So I use always the second approach.
 
The only time when I use other software other than Lightroom, and then only to join the source files, is when Lightroom for some reason does a botched job aligning the images or removing ghosts. For this either Photomatix (I repeat, only for joining the pictures in a 32 bit file) or the donation-ware LREnfuse plugin come to the rescue.

This month I will do a practical comparison between the 35mm, 56mm, 56mm APD and 90mm as I have all of them in usage for weddings at the moment. I will test them for usability in fast-paced, slow-paced and portraits situations. I will leave a link here, if i'm done with it.

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